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Discussion Forum

Craftsman Band Saw Rip Fence

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Chopper

10-19-2001 05:01:59




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Does anyone have, or know where I could locate a RIP FENCE for a Craftsman 12" Band Saw (Model 113.248320). The saw was purchased in Feb 1991.

I have exhausted all resources @ Sears and have briefly surfed the internet, but still no luck.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chopper




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Mac

10-19-2001 18:38:42




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 Re: Craftsman Band Saw Rip Fence in reply to Chopper, 10-19-2001 05:01:59  
Chopper: According to the number 113. Me thinks floor models were built for sears by Emmerson.



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Mac

10-19-2001 07:54:48




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 Re: Craftsman Band Saw Rip Fence in reply to Chopper, 10-19-2001 05:01:59  
I Have the same saw, but is single speed Mod # ends in 210. Bought in 89'. Tabletops on all 4 models appear the same. I got one of the rip fences -Item Number 09HT23402 "rip fence. LG F/Band
SA051" total cost was 38.35 in Mar 92' It clamps up well BUT you still have to check it for square-ness before using it.



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VaTom

10-19-2001 06:48:15




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 Re: Craftsman Band Saw Rip Fence in reply to Chopper, 10-19-2001 05:01:59  
Assuming we're talking about a wood cutting saw, rarely will you find two bandsaw blades rip the same. Normally it's necessary to angle the fence one way or the other relative to the saw table, depending on the set of the blade. Due to this, a fence parallel to the table edge is of little use. You will be better off making your own fence and clamping it to the table.

Two methods work well. One is what you would recognize as a fence with the guide perpendicular to the table and attached to another board clamped flat to the table. Another design amounts to a point, set your required distance from the blade. With this, you then angle your work (instead of the fence) so that the blade makes a straight ripping cut. Both work well. The latter is easier to use if you make a pencil mark down the board so you can tell which way the blade is pulling and angle the work accordingly.

I rip up to 13" thick on my slightly larger saw. I prefer the long fence design (not point) for cutting veneers, so first I need to determine which way the blade is pulling. A pencil mark on a scrap and a 3" long cut tells me how to clamp the fence to the table. Almost never parallel to the table. A little practice and it'll be a lot easier than trying to explain how to do it. Good luck.

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