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Wisconsin Robin Air Cooled Engine

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DHunter

09-28-2001 05:31:19

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I have a Wisconsin Robin Air Cooled Engine Model WI-390, Spec No. 800203 mounted on a pressure washer. It's an older unit and I'm in the process of fixing it up for sale. Problem is I can't get it to run properly. I removed the pull-start unit and am using a heavy duty drill motor as a starter. On rare occasion I can get it to run at idle speed, but when you try to rev it up it dies. Once or twice I was able to get it running at operating speed but if you change the speed down it goes.

I've installed a new carburetor (it's getting plenty of good fresh gas), replaced the pulsar pickup, checked the compression at 117 psi, checked the timing marks on the gears inside, checked the valve gap settings; .002 on the intake and .008 on the exhaust (specifications call for .002 on both). I do get good and consistent visible spark across the plug gap when it's grounded to the engine. Is there any way to check the ignition module with simple equipment as I only have a digital VOM and an analog amp meter. I hate the thought of replacing the module at $150 just to see if that will help since I'm selling the unit anyway.

Almost to the point of pleading insanity.

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Bill

09-29-2001 04:37:49

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Re: Wisconsin Robin Air Cooled Engine in reply to DHunter, 09-28-2001 05:31:19

I'm not much on model numbers. About all I can contribute is on the older farm equiptment we had 2 & 4 cylinder Wisconsin engines. While they were capable of incredibly long life, they had sticky valve trouble. Unleaded fuel made the problem worse. Spring start up was a real problem. An old farmer passed along the key- When shutting the engine down for an extended time, start it, rev it up & hit the kill. As it winds down use an oil can to squirt in a couple squirts of ....automatic transmission fluid into the carberator. Valves were never stuck again when we put the engines back in service in the spring. Something to do with the alloy make up of the metal Wisconsin used works well with the ATF. Also worked for us on sticking valves. Do the same thing referenced above & let her set a week. Funny thing about the ATF was it never fouled the plugs... Then theres the unleaded gas. Using a lead substitute put the lubrication/heat carry off back on the valves & that too helped. Valves not meant for unleaded gas are VERY vulnerable. This will also make them stick.Back then lead was NECESSARY. Had a 67 International with a 345 V8. Could take it down the highway with no problem. Once I got to where I was going & pulling in/low engine RPM she'd vapor lock & stop. After an hour or so I could get her going again. Using a lead substitute fixed that problem also. I'd HIGHLY recommend lead substitute on ANY engine designed/manufactured before 1972... That may not be your solution but hey it's a thought. Good luck....

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