Logging

Hi Dennis,

You anywhere close to Albemarle county? I recently cut in a new 1/2 mile driveway, rising 400'. Several to practice on here.

Rule 1: nobody gets hurt. The tree determines the cut. This one's 500 bd ft, top yielded 1 1/2 cords for the guy who helped me. It was threatening a new copper roof.

It`s probably best if you can get the tree on the ground without shortening the stem, even with firewood because as you shorten the stem on a hung tree it gets closer and closer to vertical again without anything to control it`s direction of fall. Use a long peavey to roll the trunk out of the tree where it`s hung or wrap a chain or cable around the base so it rolls out as you pull it.

If this doesn`t work you can make notches and back cuts opposite the direction that you would have to make it fall off the stump originally and work the stem down until it frees.

Be exceptionally careful and use plenty of cable or chain when trying to pull the butt so that the tree falls in the originally intended direction, often the butt will kick up and back very quickly and with alot of force.

First, making cuts opposite the notch and driving wedges before you cut the notch increases the compression on the kerfs as you attempt to cut your notch.

Second, once you`ve made the notch and you are then on the backside of the tree cutting the holding wood, unless you cut at exactly the same level as your wedges and closer to the back side of the notch you are again fighting compression induced by your first wedges. If cutting on a different plane, once you are past however far the wedges penetrate the tree the (formerly)open kerf negates any directional lift the wedges produced and the tree may then set back on you.

I know there are a million ways to skin a cat Bob but frankly your method, as described here, is dangerous. Make the face cut(notch) then decide whether you are going to bore cut or come in from the back and set wedges accordingly.

You`ll also only need to carry two or three wedges this way. I carry two 8s and a 12 for everything under 30". Sometimes I also use a felling bar if I want to speed things up a bit, such as with smaller diameter trees with a heavy leaf canopy. Accordingly a friend of mine who cuts alot of spruce and pine says a felling bar is the only way to go when there is snow on the trees because pounding wedges dumps alot of snow on ya.

I`m sorry because I`m not trying to be confrontational with you, but your method is too convoluted and not sound.

Cut the notch first, every time. It`s extremely important to cut the notch properly so that the direction of fall is chosen and so that a dutchman is not un-intentionally created in a poorly formed notch, then make the backcut.

Do you understand what I`m saying about compression of the kerfs when you are cutting a stem which is under abnormal pressure from wedges being driven? I`m not being a smart alec, I`m trying to help, so please feel free to say you don`t understand if I am not being clear.

Furthermore, if you have started the backcut, drive wedges, and then make the notch you have set yourself up to have a tree with a weak core release before you are ready for it to go and if you`re near the front of the tree at this point, you`re in the wrong place brother.

Heavy leaners have more of a tendency than straighter trees to barberchair so I bore cut them behind the hinge and cut out the back with a "pulling" chain. Keep a good solid hinge. You have plenty of time to dress up your hinge and notch when using a bore cut because the tree is supported by the holding wood at the back of the tree away from the notch.

Escape routes are vital, this is no BS, 45� away from the intended fall, and if you cut with a pulling chain your body is already facing in the direction you will be leaving in. Just remember, just as in backing away from a fire, you also must keep track of what the falling tree is doing, never take your eyes completely off the tree until it`s on the ground.

This is assuming the tree is unbalanced towards the leaning direction.
Make the first "notch" cut across the falling direction "leaning" direction. Make sure this notch chunk is removed clear. Cut straight in, top notch from bottom up. But not as usual the 1/2 or better cut, just a 1/4 or a little more. Then cut from each side in a double "V" form. With the widest part of the V towards the notch. The V bottom, opposite the starting notch should be about 3/4 the trees dia above the starting notch cut. The release in the cut comes when you reach the bottom of the V in the cut opposite the notch. Watch for a tendency for blade pinching here. This cut is made best at a comfortable cutting height not at ground level. Make sure you cut these trees on calm days to.

I may add this cut is for a fire wood tree only and would get a faller fired if lumber, it just wastes to much of lumber. I have cut a lot of the leaners this way including some that have been as close as 3 ft to buildings. They have all fallen to within 2ft RT or Lft of the mark.

I think you realize the most important part of this kind of work already, it can be highly dangerous whereas the plans of mice and men can and will go wrong in a split second. Even one that is downed, can have spring loaded limbs that could break both your legs when released after cutting, same is true with leaning trees entangled or supported by others, it's that reaction to cutting and releasing that energy that I find the most dangerous part of it, some are really tempting, big trees, lots of wood many are best left be unless properly equipped with a skidder, dozer or something similar.

I'm no expert either, I just look at each one carefully, clear everything around it to have clean escape route, and try to put a line on it to control the fall when needed or section and weaken it slowly. Each one can be like a puzzle, with the exception of being very hazardous. Some are not that bad, but others get caught, wreck other good trees, I recently pulled 1/2 of a big maple out, that split in 3rds at the trunk and while cutting some of the limbs to free it up, the limb sprung free with some serious energy would have swept and broke my legs easily. I don't like topping them just seems to dangerous for the most part if you have to get up on one, a strong line to something heavy like a dozer or skidder and a saw in an experienced persons hands is probably best, that and an ability to recognize danger. My opinion of these is that they can be really dangerous in many cases, good to know how to figure which ones you can take and which ones are best left alone. Also smart to have help with you, working alone and something does go wrong being alone could cost you dearly.

have a good plan

don't use cheap or old ropes/cables

don't work in the wind

if in any doubt, don't do it

I've got an interesting one to make a separate post out of, large oak downed across the 20+ acre pond, steep hill on one side, water on the other, would be interested to hear ideas on how to get it, either winch up hill to a flat area or section and tow across the water, we had and still might have enough ice, but not sure what to pull it with, something light, would not chance a tractor out there. Even when it's down already can still be a nice chore to get the darned thing to where you can deal with it, hate to see this oak go to waste too, can't stop looking at it either, can see it all the way across from my kitchen window.

Last year there was about 18" of ice, and that has occurred in the last few years, but an off winter does occur where the ice does not get so thick, the weather is too erratic here for the most part, never usually consistent for longer than 1 week or so, you never know what you will have, I usually measure the ice as we clear it and play hockey when possible.

4x4 truck with snow chains, maybe the old plow truck would be suited for towing these across, fighting that hill, then loading up the F-600 would be a lot more work vs. than somehow dragging or towing across the ice or water to where I can pull them to flat ground.

I had a friend who parked along a slope instead of the flat area one year, he ended up on the ice with a new chevy 3/4 to get a running shot up and out, 18" of ice that year, no problem for a vehicle, just have to stay where it's good which is most of the pond, assuming it's best to stay away from the high areas in the middle with vegetation and where the water comes in, there is lots of room to work. When he had his truck out there, it was the edges that were the weakest, and it was bitter cold for awhile, I had to get my old D7 down there and put a line on that truck and pull across that edge, just broke a little along the edge, crawler just made it easy to make sure he got out, but if I ever lost my tractor out there.. not good, though I would think it would hold no problem, can't let myself take a chance of losing something I would be lost without. I should dig an apron out along our flat side of the pond to deepen the water and define the edge better making it stronger when it freezes, even getting stuck there, I could use the D7 to get it out from the edge. With spring coming and before the hot weather gets here, it would be nice to get those logs so I can cut em up and get em seasoned for next year. I'm now wondering what I can also do in the water. I can roll the logs into the water and tow em, but wonder what would work, would really funny with this flat bottom row boat I have, add a trolling motor and pulling some logs across in plain sight of the state highway, hey look at that idiot out there LOL I can see it now :) I'll take some shots and post, ought to make some good fodder for discussion !