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o/t drain-septic field woes

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glennster

02-23-2008 12:18:07




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been having problems with gurgling drains and toilets acting weird. well, i think i found the problem. was out in the yard today, noticed the ground a little mushy around the cap area for the septic tank and the first distribution box. dug up the box, looks like the field is not taking water. there are three outflow lines from this box going to the rest of the field. now what??? somebody said have the field jetted? dig it all up and replace the field?? we still got quite a bit of frost in the ground.. dang :-( :-(

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Gordon in IN

02-23-2008 20:13:04




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to glennster, 02-23-2008 12:18:07  
You might want to invest in and install some new toilets. The water saving type which use a lot less water. There are some which use an air added or boost by use of a floating cap within the water tank. Biggs is one brand that use this approach. We installed some of these in our church building and they flush better than the old style toilets that use a lot more water. This approach helps the septic system and saves water also. Good luck

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Spook

02-23-2008 18:48:12




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to glennster, 02-23-2008 12:18:07  
I would have it pumped out. That should buy you some time. Then try to stagger some of your usage. Don't have 2 or three showers, flush some toilets, and then run the washing machine. The washing machine seems to put a lot of water in the system, in a hurry. This should get ya thru till spring. I went thru the same thing, I waited till the weather got better, pumped it out again, rented a trencher, bought the junction box connecters, and sock tile at HD. And 10 yards of pea gravel. I left the current field tiles in, trenched new lines in between, so I went from 4 lines to 8. You want to let the stuff down easy, it took me some hand work to taper the depth of the tiles, they have to go down a 1/4 inch per foot. You won't get it exactly, but obviously, the Shhit has to go down hill. You want the gravel underneath and around. Fill the rest with dirt. The socktile doesn't get clogged with fine soil like regular tile. It will last longer. And finally, use some Riddix or something. The stuff does work.

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Arkandan

02-24-2008 02:34:20




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to Spook, 02-23-2008 18:48:12  
Quote: .....it took me some hand work to taper the depth of the tiles, they have to go down a 1/4 inch per foot. You won't get it exactly, but obviously, the Shhit has to go down hill. End Quote

Hey Spook, I don't think you're correct in your assumtion that the drain tiles get a ¼" per foot pitch. I know for a fact here in Arkansas they don't. I just put a septic system in last summer that called for four laterals 85' long. I didn't have to have a permit, but got one anyway just so when it comes time to sell there won't be any questions. Anyway, the inspector was adamant about keeping the laterals as level as possible from one end to the other. My wife and I did all the work, which is no small task for a couple of flatlanders here in these hills. Also, the effluent or "Shhit", as you call it, should not reach the drain field if the system is working correctly. Only the liquid should go into the drain field. Regards, Dan

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Spook

02-24-2008 17:39:25




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to Arkandan, 02-24-2008 02:34:20  
Yeah, your probably right, been 4,5 years since I did it. I agree liquid is all that goes into the field.



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buickanddeere

02-23-2008 15:49:27




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to glennster, 02-23-2008 12:18:07  
Problems around here is the impervious clay soil. If the ground above the weeping bed gets frozen or snowed over. The moisture can not go up.
The bulk of the weeping system load here was diverted to a grey water system. No problems since.
The septic/weeping bed is not intended to accept shower/bath, sink, washing machine or dishwasher grey water.



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glennster

02-23-2008 14:39:59




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to glennster, 02-23-2008 12:18:07  
well i just got back from big r's, got extra pressure washer hose, fittings adapters and any other doo-dads i could find. a little bit of drilling and yankee engineering and tomorrow morning i'm gonna try and jet er out!!!! i 'll let ya's know what happens. prolly gonna need a good warshin' after this ordeal!!!



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36 coupe

02-23-2008 14:37:49




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to glennster, 02-23-2008 12:18:07  
Septic field lines can freeze if there is not enough snow cover.Have it pumped and cut back usage.Some people use a tremendous amount of water.It takes time for water to seep away.I notice a lot of septic pump trucks in early May around here.The ground is saturated then.



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T_Bone

02-23-2008 14:17:25




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to glennster, 02-23-2008 12:18:07  
Hi Glenn,

Roots can be easy resolved with copper sulfate(50lbs?) in both pipes and leach fields. This kills the roots which then decompose then the water flushs the compost out of the leach bed gravel thus once again opens the leach field to full flow.

This takes time and at your temperatures, awhile.

You might divert your wash water on top of the ground until you get this resolved.

In my compost pile, I can make hot(very high in nitrogen) finished compost in 30 to 45days when all compost items are correct. Your leach field has too much water right now so that will slow the compost action way down from my results.

T_Bone

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CBBC

02-23-2008 19:48:58




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to T_Bone, 02-23-2008 14:17:25  
T-Bone, where do you put the CuSO4? Dump in tank, D box or right in lines?

Grant



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T_Bone

02-24-2008 07:13:15




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to CBBC, 02-23-2008 19:48:58  
Hi Grant,

You can flush it for the leed pipe. It won't hurt the compost action of the tank chambers. For the leach field/dry well, I'd open the distributor box and dump it in there as this will carry it to the perferations thus into the gravel bed.

Depending on how bad the roots were, I'd say atleast three times or maybe every 45days.

T_Bone



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Billy NY

02-23-2008 12:57:56




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to glennster, 02-23-2008 12:18:07  
This happened here once, the ground was saturated, then froze, just some weird wet cold weather that year, no trees near the system, just over saturated soil, frost, and soil percolates well here too. I had it pumped out, it's an over sized tank and system designed for much more capacity than it gets, so that helps, and it made enough space to get through til spring thaw, also the washer discharge as all other gray water goes to a seperate drywell tank no lint to clog the leach field or chemical to disturb the septic tank bacteria.

Worst case is getting it pumped out to create some space, replacing the leach field from the D box is not difficult, cost effective to rent a hoe and get the stone,pipe and rosin paper or whatever is specified for your area. I'd hate to have to do it now with the frost in the ground, that would be a mess to deal with. The pressure washer cleanout rig sounds like a way to deal with clearing it out, might just be the ground conditions once things thaw, might go back to normal.

Only other thing,is to make sure the discharge pipe from the house to tank is not restricted and from the tank to the D box, happened here once, somthing hung up on the pipe to the tank, backed er up though, snaked it out and had tank pumped out too, heard the waterfall, been good since.

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wsmm66

02-23-2008 12:53:56




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to glennster, 02-23-2008 12:18:07  
THh first time I had my tank pumped they told me I had waited too long and the field was ruined. Last time I had it pumped they said there was water coming back in from the field and that I would probably need to replace, or extend it. They recommended this new system which I could install by myslef and it would be cheaper than convential way of doing a field. This is a new system that you can tie into your system that does not need gravel. I know Menards carrys a type, it's like an open quanset (not sure of spelling) hut. My system is still going strong. Try having your tank pumped and see what happens. I figure at the costs of replacing a field or extending I can have it pumped out once a yeat and it will probably still out last me. Although it hasn't come to that yet. The goog Lord is looking out for me.

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Unruh

02-23-2008 12:32:30




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to glennster, 02-23-2008 12:18:07  
I have a 250' X 5/16 high pressure hose that I hook up to my gas engine pressure washer. I capped the end of the hose, drilled three small holes facing rearward and ground the cap to a point. With the holes pointing to the rear, it helps propel the hose along. The washer puts out 3,500 psi @ 4 gpm, so I have to idle it down to what the holes will allow before the bypass kicks in. That allows me to put maximum pressure on the working end. It sure washed my line out, including taking out the apple tree roots.

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RayP(MI)

02-23-2008 12:53:58




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to Unruh, 02-23-2008 12:32:30  
I'm not having trouble with mine, but I like that idea - going to have to chuck that one in the old memory bank!

1



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RayP(MI)

02-23-2008 12:53:58




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to Unruh, 02-23-2008 12:32:30  
I'm not having trouble with mine, but I like that idea - going to have to chuck that one in the old memory bank!

1



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glennster

02-23-2008 12:42:30




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to Unruh, 02-23-2008 12:32:30  
wow thats a great idea, i'll have to run down a see if i can get some line for my washer and try it!! much appreciated!! thx glenn



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Spook

02-23-2008 18:51:25




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 Re: o/t drain-septic field woes in reply to glennster, 02-23-2008 12:42:30  
As a start, I would just pump it out, cost maybe $150 here. Then use Riddex and stagger your loads, and see if the problem goes away. If not, then it's a lot more work.



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