Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

O.T. Fence Question

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Billy NY

02-16-2008 11:06:11




Report to Moderator

Have a question in regards to straightening a fence I installed last summer, this is a 4"x4" post with 6x8 stockade type panels.

One leg is 70 feet, to the corner, the other is 100 feet to the corner, the middle of this 100' section has bent over out of plumb. I used 10 foot posts and buried them as deep as I could dig by hand, the middle of the 100 foot span is where the problem is, and the grade changes slightly, middle is lower than both ends, I did re grade the site but just scraped the surface and filled low areas to make it as level as possible, the soil around posts is for the most part undisturbed. I think it's also heavy clay type soil.

Thet are set at least 3 feet deep each 8 on center, the 70 foot leg is anchored to a concrete wall at one end, so is the 100 foot section, 70 foot section I did concrete a few holes as the shale rock slope up to the surface along that run, also chopped out a socket in the shale and placed concrete, this side is good, the other side just went out of plumb after the frost and thaw cycle, the post holes are wallowed out, possibly the wind pushing on the fence, and soft ground.

I'd like to straighten this thing out, it's a customer of mine and I told her I'd be back to set it straight when the ground thaws, most fence outfits do not concrete or use dry mix, as they state the posts decay sooner, so I set and packed these in tight, really spent a lot of time on this job to do it right, beyond what you would get from a fence contractor, using those end brackets, chopping out in the shale etc., the ends of each run are anchored and set with concrete, I was on the money, dead on the property line with an 1" to spare in my favor, now it's an embarassment to look at ! LOL ! Well she knows I back my work, no problem at all, heck she never even called, I went back and looked to see how it held up, what I saw was a little different than when I installed it.

What I'm wondering, after re-plumbing the 100 foot run, I can anchor to the building and pull it back, it's brick, open the hole make room pull some more, then brace etc., should I just concrete a few posts in the middle, frost may heave up but the out of plumb thing with this heavy clay soil seems to be worse of a problem. Seems the middle post on this run may have the shallow'est post depth and is weakest one, just wondering what might be the best fix, not a fence contractor, but will do them at a customers request.

One photo of the site, day 1 on the job.

third party image

Posts set on 100'-0" run

third party image

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Stan in Oly, WA

02-16-2008 16:04:18




Report to Moderator
 Re: O.T. Fence Question in reply to Billy NY, 02-16-2008 11:06:11  
Hi Billy,

When you say you can brace to the brick building, do you mean you can brace temporarily while you are doing whatever you need to tighten up the posts in the ground, or that you can brace permanently? If the latter, you might consider bracing with steel from near the top of the post or posts and angling upward toward the building. That would allow unobstructed passage alongside the house. Since the posts are deeply embedded you could also trench shallowly from post(s) to house and attach a steel brace from the post below grade to the house below grade.

Both ends of the 100' run are already secured, so I suspect that two more posts braced top and bottom would be enough to maintain plumb on that whole run.

They say irony is dead in contemporary American literature, but I don't know how else to describe a situation where you do every single thing right, overdo everything you think will make a difference, and still have your fence go out of plumb the first winter. The phrase, "Gee, that's a b!tch," doesn't seem to cut it.

All the best, Stan

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Billy NY

02-16-2008 18:14:30




Report to Moderator
 Re: O.T. Fence Question in reply to Stan in Oly, WA, 02-16-2008 16:04:18  
Yes, I could do exactly as you describe, unobstructed at an angle, be it temporary or left in place, it's just a narrow walkway, also be interested to see if it would work, and or how ridiculous it might look :) Used to deal with expansion issues in all kinds of construction assemblies on the high rise jobs, but I did not really give it a lot of thought here for some reason. The panels are also lightly pressure treated, spruce pickets on 3 rails, kiln dried, then pressure treated, so the wood is literally dried out, then soaked again, and you would think the panels would have dried again, then shrunk up during the heat of the summer,and expanded again when absorbing moisture in the fall. These were a lowes product, they don't seem to weather as fast as the untreated panels.


It's nice to be able to take the time to do the best work whenever possible, the stairs came out nice and only needed to be re-shimmed once before I fastened them to the ledger and the toe boards, one embedded with L bolts and the other expansion bolted to the new concrete upper step. I learned how to do a few types of stairs from the woodworkers in a millshop at a lumber yard at about 19, and have built lots of them over the years in my spare time for side jobs. Incidentally, just about every component on this job can be disassembled for easy repair except the 3 posts in concrete. Always something, be nice to make it right for the customer and always good for reference when it looks good.

Now some of the funny little inane things I did, anti seize on the expansion bolt threads, all steel connection pieces were cleaned and all surfaces were coated with Zinc Rich galv. spray like used for your welds and even touched up after installed, hence the overspray. It did not rust one bit.

Funny how something you know and deal with a often in one area, gets little consideration in other practical uses like this, and can come back to haunt you a little. Glad it was mentioned, was just thinking the posts were wobbling from wind load and soft dense wet clay soil, the building is up on hill formed by a river valley, they do get some wind there.


third party image">Link

third party image

third party image

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
bva

02-16-2008 13:52:10




Report to Moderator
 Re: O.T. Fence Question in reply to Billy NY, 02-16-2008 11:06:11  
as you adjust this fence don't forget to consider that the fence will expand and contract with weather so you should allow for a little slippage in the fence to post area. In a 100' run if the fence only expands 1" then something must move sideways. Your more rigid corners is contributing to this situation.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Billy NY

02-16-2008 16:08:39




Report to Moderator
 Re: O.T. Fence Question in reply to bva, 02-16-2008 13:52:10  
That certainly makes sense, will have to check it out, and now I wonder if expansion gaps would help on a few panels. Does not look buckled, but if it expanded and the middle bowed out like it is, shoe seems to fit.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
MSD

02-16-2008 12:00:15




Report to Moderator
 Re: O.T. Fence Question in reply to Billy NY, 02-16-2008 11:06:11  
You might try pee rock or course gravel to pack them in.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
what i would do

02-16-2008 11:48:38




Report to Moderator
 Re: O.T. Fence Question in reply to Billy NY, 02-16-2008 11:06:11  
every other post i would get a 2 to 2 and a half foot steel tubing that would fit over the wooden post and cement them in the ground then drill holes in the tubing insert the post and put all thread thru the tubing and the post then it should hold a fence with no concrete especially wooden is heavy and with a little rain and wind it will lean one way or the other



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bendee

02-16-2008 22:47:56




Report to Moderator
 Re: O.T. Fence Question in reply to what i would do, 02-16-2008 11:48:38  
An observation.....just think the heavy clay soil may be the problem.fence installed in summer,dry, moves when wet,have a look next summer.but inclined to think it won't come back.
If you encase wood in concrete there is no escape for the water so it rots,place concrete on sides and not bottom. Had a house once,built on heavy clay, which would develop a crack in the window sill each summer,close each winter when damp.

If you are going to use the building to pull it back. check your insurance are upto date.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy