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Machine Fabrication question

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uncle

02-04-2008 19:23:24

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I am building a pedestal buffer and I am just now making the shaft.
I have a 4ft length on 1018 cold roll 1 1/4 in diameter.
I bought 1 in right and 1 in left bolts. I cut the heads off leaving what looks like a stud.
I am thinking about drilling a 7/8 hole in the ends on the lathe and turning down about 2 inches of the studs to about .003 interference, heating the shaft and pressing in the studs.
Before I get too far, will this work?
any other suggestions?
Brian

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Fred Martin

02-07-2008 12:12:46

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to uncle, 02-04-2008 19:23:24

Uncle, I think the guys are right about cutting the threads on the lathe. The first step would be to make sure your cold rolled shafting is straight within a thousandth or two in it's length. Actually, the threads should be cut between centers if your lathe has enough bed length to it. Don't worry about cutting the threads with the lathe, it will be real easy cause I'll walk you through it step by step if you like...including how to setup the lathe, how to figure out the slant depth, how to grind the threading tool and how to accurately cut center holes in each end if you don't have a center rest. Then, you can spend your time heating up collars to shrink on the shaft and then take a facing cut on them and you will be as near to perfect as possible. If your interested, let me know what kind of lathe you have and it's bed length and swing...and we'll go from there. And by the way, a shrink fit is .001" for each inch of shaft diameter plus a .001" or in your case, .002". respectfully, ohfred

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LilFarmer

02-05-2008 16:53:17

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to uncle, 02-04-2008 19:23:24

I would be a little concerned about runout of the studs also, but if you beleive you can hold the tolerance on the holes and studs, I would make them a .001 interference fit and I think you could press them in without heat.

I would then cross drill the shaft and stud maybe 3/16" and use a pin 1/4" shorter than the shaft diameter that would end up recessed in the shaft so you could weld both ends of the pin keep it intact.

Then turn the shaft in the lathe over the welds to make a smooth and balanced assembly.

No engineer, just my $.02

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LilFarmer

02-05-2008 17:37:41

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to LilFarmer, 02-05-2008 16:53:17

Another thought!

You could "Dutch Pin" the cross pin in the shaft and have no expansion or welding heat applied to the shaft.

This would also make it easier to remove in the future for repairs if necessary.

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NC Wayne

02-05-2008 16:23:41

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to uncle, 02-04-2008 19:23:24

Just remember if your gonna try pressing the threaded studs in they're gonna have to be an EXTREEMELY TIGHT press fit. Personally I wouldn't trust it, especially with a buffing wheel attached. Your gonna be putting more holdback force onto a buffing wheel by feeding the part into it than you would a typical grinding wheel so it's gonna be trying to tighten the nut itself the whole time your using it. When you start to tighten the nut to, even just to hold the wheel on it's gonna be trying to pull them out, add to that the continious force of ther wheel acting on them while in use and it loks to me like your asking for something to go wrong. Don't forget something threaded like this can exert a tremendous amount of pushing or pulling force on a part. If you think about it they make presses as well as jacks using screw threads for that very reason.

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Bob - MI

02-05-2008 09:00:07

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to uncle, 02-04-2008 19:23:24

I would suggest that you thread the end of the shaft and forget the press fit stud procedure. A single piece shaft with the threads turned on the end is the strongest way to go. If you don"t have the tools a good machine shop can do it for you.

Lots of good deals on used equipment out there too.

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Butch(OH)

02-05-2008 07:49:04

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to uncle, 02-04-2008 19:23:24

I have spent more than a few hours on a buffer that was also home built. Two things, The shaft and mountings need to run true and you are going to have a tough time keeping things straight with your pressed in stud idea. Heating it will only make things worse. If pressed to build one in that manner I would make the studs a very light press fit and use some retaining agent (aka locktite or epoxy) A better way If you cannot cut threads would be to turn the shaft to the correct size and use a threading die held in your tail stock (another project for your lathe) The thing needs to be true or you will fight it from now until you chunk the shaft and do it over.

Number two thing is your stated shaft RPM is going to be too high for 12" wheels. The wheel surface feet per minute (SFPM) needs to be under 7000 and best under 6000. SFPM is wheel diameter in feet x pie x RPM. Or yours is 1 X 3.14 X 2600=8164. High speeds throw the compounds of the wheels and slow the work being done. Good luck with your project

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uncle

02-05-2008 14:28:37

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to Butch(OH), 02-05-2008 07:49:04

I just checked my chart and your right on. I need around 2300rpms for 7200 fps.
I believe I can get it true with the lathe and .003 might be too much of a press fit.
Brian

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circus

02-05-2008 05:41:37

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to uncle, 02-04-2008 19:23:24

Notify us where to send the flowers.

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135 Fan

02-04-2008 23:04:52

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to uncle, 02-04-2008 19:23:24

Why not weld it after the bolt fits inside? It wouldn't have to be a super tight press fit requiring heating the shaft. Dave

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02-04-2008 21:53:59

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to JT, 02-04-2008 19:23:24

Sounds like it will but since you've got a lathe why not cut the threads on the ends of the shaft?

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Spook

02-05-2008 00:46:35

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to mj, 02-04-2008 21:53:59

I think the idea of threading the shaft is a good idea, but this project might be a little tough. You need to mount the wheels on there pretty concentric, even a few thousandths runout will make it difficult to use. Any runout in the shaft will be magnified by the diameter of the wheel, the bigger the wheel, the more vibration you will have. You might be money ahead buying a used industrial unit.

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uncle

02-05-2008 03:45:12

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to Spook, 02-05-2008 00:46:35

I will be using 12 inch buffing wheels turning 2600rpms. It will not have stones mounted.
I am not that great at cutting threads so I wanted to go the prefab route.
Will the .003 interference mate the pieces well enough?

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135 Fan

02-05-2008 10:24:37

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to uncle, 02-05-2008 03:45:12

I think there is a lot of guess work for what you are doing. It would be best to have a machine shop thread the shaft for you. Then you would know that it's true and won't come apart. The buffing wheels should have a recommended RPM. Most big grinders only turn at 1700 RPM's or less. Dave

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Joe(TX)

02-05-2008 06:17:25

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Re: Machine Fabrication question in reply to uncle, 02-05-2008 03:45:12

Thats pretty fast for a 12 in buffing wheel.

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