Building a Pole Barn Questions

Thanks in advance for the help!!

I already have a pole barn.

I would like to know the best way to block varmints from burrowing under
the floor of the building.

Any info would be appreciated.

How about some chicken wire attached to the skirt boards and buried in the ground about 12" to 18" make sure you bend it out away from the building itself and when the varmits start to dig they will hit the wire and most likely give up. GOOD LUCK

The key to preventing rot is keeping the pole dry. DO NOT set the pole in wet conrete nor in dry conrete so that is creates a pocket that holds moisture. Anyone who has placed conrete in the bottom and not gotten rot was lucky (the use of dry bags may work because setting the pole on the bag material doesn't create a pocket). Again, the key is keeping it dry, such as with clean rock on the bottom and sides.

I have split locust fencepost that are at least 100 years old with no wiggle.
I find that amazing.

Don't know for sure but I'd bet the old timers planted them deep and probably slapped some tar or creosote on the part below ground.

fwiw Irv

The laminated posts were nailed and glued but still got some warpage on one or two. More of a bow I'd say that put the top of the post out of alignment by about an inch or two at most. Nothing that couldn't be dealt with. You know what they say " putty and paint makes a carpenter what he ain't".

We also put the truss ties flush with the top of the truss instead of resting on top of the truss. Felt like it would give the building more integrity once the metal was screwed on.

I agree with the comments about the rat wall. Groundhogs and other critters love to dig under buildings.

Another thing here is they require "rat walls", that is a 3" by 24" deep wall all the way around the barn to keep varmints from nesting under the floor. Even if you do not have a concrete floor it is required in the event you put one in.

A phone call to these people may save you a lot of grief later.

JerryU

2. Depends. They have to go to your local frost line.

3. Here they don't use concrete. Causes frost heave. They just bury them below the frost line.

4. I had them laminate 3 2"x6" PT yellow pine boards the full length (no splices). Cost a little extra but very strong and won't warp like solid 6x6s.

Should be. I assume you're using a post hole digger, so the actual hole will be larger than 12" diameter by the time it gets done flopping around.

2.How deep, I hear 3', 4', and many other depths?

Here in coastal Maine, we use a minumum figure of 4' to get below the frost. Check in your area, but I'd think 4' would be good.

3.Concrete in the bottom, but what about around the side of the post? How high on the post? Wet or dry bag?

Mixed concrete in the bottom, let it cure 24 hours. None around the sides, just gives the frost something to grab onto and heave the post, plus it traps water and rots the post.m Backfill with screened gravel or anything that doesn't have rocks over about 1", and tamp every 8", that post will never move.

4.Solid 6X6 or laminated treated boards? Is one better than the other?

Pressure Treated 6x6, two reasons: The treatment will delay/prevent rot. I pulled up some 4x4's that had been in the ground 15 years, and they looked like new. Second reason is that PT lumber is usually Southern Yellow Pine, which is much denser than spruce, hence much stronger.