Mechanical Radiator Help Needed Bleeding Air

I know how to bleed the system of air, but sometimes the way they showed me is not good enough and I have to call them.

Is there any inline air bleeding mechanism we can have installed to constantly remove air from the line?

This one zone literally stops working twice a month.

Advice?

It turns out that the pump had burned up.

I am not very knowledgeable on how this system works, but we do have one of the smallish bladder tanks.

The way they showed me to bleed the system is to shut off the water below the pump. Then between the shut off and the pump is a release valve. I empty that into a bucket until the air is out.

There is another way of introducing pressure into the system while you are doing this, but I didn't follow the guys explanation 100%.

I'll try to post some pictures of the system. I'm positive it was inspected 30 years ago and the only change since then has been the boiler and maybe one new pump.

I gotta agree with Dave. Make sure you have a expansion tank installed in the high point of the system.

If you have a expansion tank, then bleed off the air out of the tank until you get water, then stop. If you've never bled air out of the ET then it's backing air into the system loop.

It is possible to have a suction leak and not leak water as already mentioned. If you suspect a small suction leak, you can melt wax over the suspected leak to confirm the leaking joint/connection. The wax is easly removed for repair with a little bit of heat.

All water contains air, no matter what the source and in a closed loop system you have to have a place for that air to collect and that's the expansion tank.

Never ever install any type of flow control on the suction side of the pump as if you do you will guarntee that the pump will cavitate and tear up the pump vanes as well produce air into the system.

T_Bone