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My weld broke

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Stumpalump

01-07-2008 10:09:06




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Neibors Yanmar tractor needed to welded again. This time the front wheel hub broke off the axel. 3/8" plate flange welded to about a 1" solid shaft. We cleaned it up and welded it with my still new to me Millermatic 180 with gas. I had the power all the way up and the wire speed at 90% of max like the welder manufacturer sugests on the side sticker for thick material. the weld looked ok with just a few pinholes but when it broke it looked like the weld didn't penetrate very much and was all full of holes or bubbles. It looked like pumace stone. We will use the arc welder to fix it and he is taking it apart right now but what went wrong with my mig weld? I know I'm pushing the max for the welder but can I do anything different to get by better when doing this kind of weld. Why the bubles??

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T_Bone

01-11-2008 05:41:39




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
Well I disagree with saying stick or Mig or Tig should be used on this type joint WITHOUT preheating.
With out preheating the joint, any weld process used will yield inferior results as the weld area is too small and the materials are too thick to achive 100% penetration.

Also, the joint really should be stress relieved before welding then be heat treated after welding to restore hardness and temper in the materials. Without proper post/pre heat treatment, the joint will quickly fail again.

T_Bone

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Don-Wi

01-10-2008 21:33:41




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
I'm not completely familiar with that model, so what kind of voltage oes it take? 110? Wire is great, but unless you've got a great big monseter of a wire welder it isn't gonna have the penetration you need to make a weld like that.

We've got a smaller MIG welder we use for lighter stuff, but we won't even think about touching heavier stuff with it. That's what the MIG welder is for at whatever shop I work at. They've got lots more capacty and can really fry it in there.

Also no way I'd be able to use the wire feed at 90% of max on those bigger ones- that'd be putting waaaay too much wire out...

Donovan from Wisconsin

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chuck davis

01-08-2008 14:07:46




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
As a guy that has done my share of welding of all the types mentioned here, i can make the following statements.
1 Mig welding has its place. It does not like wind,grease, oil, paint or rust.
2 Stick welding will tolerate all of the above in limited amounts.
3 Porosity can be caused by so many factors that without seeing and holding the piece in my hand it is hard to say.
4 Broken welds happen to anyone that has done any welding. It is usually caused by poor joint construction,not knowing the metal,or the metals being joined, using the wrong rod or filler metal, or a guy with a stinger in his hand that has never learned even the basics.
Sustained vibration causes, at least in my experience,more weld failures than anything else

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Puddles

01-08-2008 11:02:36




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
I personally think Mig is a fantastic process for general fab work. But when it comes to equipment repair Mig would not be in the equation far as I�m concerned. Just this morning I had to make a socket weld. When I say socket weld that�s exactly what I did. I took a 3/4-inch drive 1 7/16-inch socket and placed a piece of 1 1/2-inch round stock inside the socket. I have my choice of SMAW, Mig or Tig. Being as it was a somewhat small radius I chose Tig, I grabbed some 309 filler. If I would have had it I would have preferred 310. You know the old saying, �When in doubt, use Stainless�
Proper joint prep, and choosing the correct process for the task at hand just comes with experience, and knowing your own ability. Just my 2-cents!

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Bill in IL

01-08-2008 10:01:04




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
Were you welding outside where the wind was blowing your sheilding gas away? Thats another possibility for your porosity problem.

How was your polarity setup, Electrode positive should give you better penetration for welds like that. Use electrode negative for light welding jobs. You should be able to change polarity under the cover somewhere close to where the wire reel is.

I like the preheating Idea that T Bone has cause for heavy metal the welding heat is taken away from the joint too fast so you do not get enough penetration.

Did you grind away all the old weld before you started. Old weld makes it hard to get good penetration cause of the uneven surface you are welding to.

I am more partial to stick welding using 6010"s when I need penetration. MIG or stick should give you the same results if the joint is prepared properly.

Sounds like a good challenge let us know how it works the second time.

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T_Bone

01-08-2008 05:24:12




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
Hi SL,

I would say if you increased you gas coverage to 45cft/hr then you might have a leak in your gas hose/connection.

To test, turn your gas on the cylinder, turn your flow meter to maximun flow, bleed a small amount of gas out of the nozzle, then ONLY turn the cylinder valve off. Watch the flow meter and cylinder gauge for a pressure drop. This will tell you if your leak free to the gun. If they drop very slowly over 15min, then your leak free as far as welding gas line is considered.

As to why the weld broke, did you preheat both the shaft and the plate to 900� ? If not, It would not matter what weld process you used as they all would have broke from cold lapp, or incomplete penetration.

Depending on the joint design, I would have let the joint air cool then reheated the same area too 500� (lead wheel weights melts at approx 500�) then poured water or oil on the weldment as this adds temper to the weldment.

In MT about 20yrs ago, I welded a neighbors electric wheel chair seat with a 115v Century flux core machine. 1-1/4 shaft with a 1/4" plate. I preheated the plate/shaft with a LP Burns-O-Matic torch. To this day, it's still holding. None of the local welding shops would touch it.

T_Bone

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trucker40

01-07-2008 21:50:40




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
Any welder you use,can make a bad weld.I never welded ships,but I did rail cars.Yes,there is a difference in a mig and stick weld.The mig is a little more brittle.In some things that could be a bad thing,not necessarily in others.Im not an engineer,not even the best welder.Where I worked the Rail cars were welded with mig welders except for tankers.They were welded with robotic wire welders,sort of like a flux core.This was in the 70s,there was flux core,but for some reason they used something different.When the machines got done(and they also had people with stick welders working on these tankers)they would x-ray all the welds.Any that didnt pass they would gouge out and weld with stick,7018 uphill(even machines they had back then were not perfect)and after all the welds passed they would heat the whole tanker(without the wheels)in a big oven untill it was red hot(took 3 days to do that)then open the doors and let it cool off. I didnt work there very long a couple of months.As some of you said where it was critical they used stick.However the only way they did critical welds at that place was uphill 7018.This is just me though,if its good enough to use mig on a rail car,I think it will work on a tractor,especially if you weld uphill.If you cant weld uphill,either you need to try it with some practice first or take it to somebody that can.That doesnt mean that it will not hold,if you weld it with a stick,or that it wont hold if you weld it flat.I am just saying that it will probly work the best,mig,uphill.Im also thinking preheat some after thinking about it. Having said that,there are welding shops that weld every day,but probly know less about welding than I do.Then there are welding shops that know way more than me.I have welded lots of stuff.I worked at factories and learned their way,and got lots of practice.However I learned more about welding from welding since then. Did anybody know that after you weld something,if you grind the weld flat its a lot stronger than if you just leave the weld as it is?As long as you dont make the metal thinner than the rest where you grind it off,it wont be as likely to crack if you grind it off. If you dont weld real good you probly are better off using a mig(there are exceptions)but the biggest reason is its easier to weld uphill with a mig if you can get to where you can weld it that way.The reason for useing a mig uphill is you can see what you are doing better,and you wont get it as hot,which is better for cast material in my opinion,and it wont be full of slag,as it will if you dont know what you are doing real good,that way it wont keep getting worse and worse on you to where you dont have nothing bud a mud-daubered pile of slag when you are done,and as soon as you quit welding it cracks and falls apart.Then you have to take it to a welding shop,or somebody like me,and we have to spend half a day grinding slag out of it,plus its burned to a crackling as well. No offense meant to any of you,it takes a lot of practice,and its just better for somebody thats maybe not as good to use a mig,in my opinion. Sure if you want to get real technical about it,a stick weld could be better.You have to consider that who is doing it knows how,it still needs to be uphill,and done right. Myself I have better luck on cast stuff with a mig,and I have to do lots of grinding.I think the reason it works better is the mig is not as hot,and it doesnt shock the metal as bad,causing it to crack.You might want to even warm it some with a torch when you get done so it takes some of the stress out of the weld. I think if you already welded it,and the weld broke it was somthing done wrong in setting up the welder more than anything else.Probly not enough gas pressure,wind,nozzle too far away from work.There are stronger ways of welding other than flat,uphill lets you spend the time to put the metal in the right place,so it can penetrate real good. Welding is harder than it looks.I spent 4 years doing it in factories,and there were some that never got good at it,some that were experts,that I started with.Way more people than I ever worked with came and went.Its not good for you to breathe all that smoke,it burns your body,clothes,everything.It can cause explosions,fires.Maybe you can even get hurt real bad,especially if your weld breaks and hurts somebody,even yourself. There is allways,every day,somebody learning different ways to fix things.If we all knew all this stuff we would be something like magicians.To people less than a hundred years ago we can do things very few of them could do.Nobody had a mig in their garage.Few even had a torch.I was fortunate enough to work with an old man that welded stuff when they first had welders.The first welding rods didnt have any flux on them.That was in the 1900s some time,maybe 1920s.They are way past that,and for stick to still be used,with all of its problems,says its a real good way of welding.Its not the only way though.I saw one time on TV where they used dynamite to weld steel to aluminum.I dont like it,but flux core works good,penetrates deep,maybe the deepest.I dont know if thats what you want in welding something like this.Seems to me flux core is more a production weld(maybe robotic)done mostly on steel.By production I mean factory,so more welds can be done by a worker,machine,slave,whatever in a day,and penetrated 100%.There is still the problem with slag,not everybody will chip,grind and whatever it takes to get the slag out,which could cause problems. When I answer a question about welding I try to think of whats maybe going on.I may not be right,but thats just me.I think of what I have seen people do,and what it took for me to fix it.Thats all you get from me.I used to ask people when I didnt know how to weld something,and a lot of times not get an answer that helped.The best teaching I ever got was when somebody watched what I did over my shoulder and told me what to do to fix it.Since I cant be where these folks are when they ask questions,I just do as good as I can with this keyboard,most of the time with one finger.Im not a typist,and I wouldnt even know where to start putting a picture on here,dont even have a camera. One of the few things I am good at is welding,and by no means the total authority on it.You get out a textbook,and start talking about stuff and I wont know what you are talking about a lot of times.Still,I grew up on a farm.Learned how to weld in FFA,and I know where a lot of the people are coming from.I kind of have a natural ability to weld.I dont try and keep what I know a big secret as some do.There are people that can put me to shame welding too.I admit it.I dont know how to tig weld very good,never was where I had to use one,but those guys can really weld. I used to be on the stick was best side.I didnt like welding with a mig for about the first 2 years I welded.I just would rather use the stick,didnt get burned as bad,less sparks,less trouble with tips,and I was new,they would give the new guy an old worn out mig.Had trouble getting it set,just not a good situation.Then as I used it more and more,and I got to where I could set it real good.I started liking it better. I can weld with a stick,or a mig,even a torch.I prefer mig most of the time.Thats just me.I like to think I can tell you the best way as I see it,and if it helps fine.I try and speak in a way that can be understood.Now most likely people will read this and have their own opinion,and thats good.If you find a better way tell me about it.If I say you need to weld something uphill,its a good idea to study up on welding uphill before you try it.If you try and dont think you can do it,and ask,and are able to communicate what you mean by writing,ask.I will look if Im not doing something else and try and answer.I spent about 2 hours writing this,and dont allways have time for it.If what I say sounds right to you,fine.If not,somebody will have an answer thats different maybe you like better.It doesnt bother me too bad.Maybe somebody else will read it and agree with me. Its all in what you feel like you should do.Dont weld your spindle if you dont think you can.Ask around see if you change your mind.If you have to buy a new one.It maybe will break too,or last a long time,who knows? I think if I owned a mig I would weld it,uphill,preheat a little to keep from shocking it too bad,a little after heat so it cools slower.If it dont crack then,it could last a long time.It might break again.First thing is figure out what you are doing wrong when you are welding.Maybe the metal in what you are welding caused it somehow,or do you think its something you did wrong?

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Stan in Oly, WA

01-08-2008 20:36:15




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to trucker40, 01-07-2008 21:50:40  
Hi trucker40,

Good posting---very informative and very clear. I have a question about something you stated very firmly a number or times. You advise uphill welding for 7018 stick or for MIG. Why do you feel that uphill, or vertical up, produces better welds than flat welding? Even in flat welding, the longer you spend welding one area, the more heat buildup you have to contend with---which may or may not be to your advantage. With vertical up, the heat buildup ahead of your weld is all the more so. I can think of situations where this wouldn't necessarily work in your favor.

I will usually make an effort to get my workpiece into a position where I can do the welding flat (unless it makes absolutely no sense to do so.) If you can explain why uphill produces a better weld, maybe I'll decide that my time would be better spent brushing up my vertical up technique than wrestling projects into position just to be able to weld them flat.

All the best, Stan

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trucker40

01-11-2008 11:21:46




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stan in Oly, WA, 01-08-2008 20:36:15  
Sorry I forgot about posting on this one Stan. Well I dont have a easy answer for you.I was taught that uphill is the strongest weld you can make with a mig or 7018stick. It has to do with lots of things.The first one I can think of is when you get an uphill weld done right there is no undercut.Undercut weakens a weld a lot.Also by saying uphill,there is a way you are supposed to set up for a uphill weld where you have it beveled on both sides,you have a gap between the parts that you are welding.You burn a root pass with a 6011 stringer bead if you use a buzz box.You weld start and stop strips on it so you can start the first inch off of your workpiece and your last part of the weld off of the workpiece.The first and last parts of the weld have the most problems of slag in them or porosity.It takes an inch to get the rod burning right.Then you clean all of the slag out(even if you use a mig)wire brush and start at the bottom and run stringers side by side,cleaning and grinding if necessary to get all the slag out before you do the next stringer.If you think about it a stringer thats only filling a third or less of the gap at a time is not as much heat as trying to "burn it in"in a flat pass.I have done that myself trying to burn it in with a flat pass,but if you have to stay in one place very long it will crack.As for not as strong with a flat weld,I think the setup has some to do with it,and the heat is more concentrated in a vertical up weld.I know thats what the engineers wanted when I worked in a factory for welds that had to be strong as possible.The mig on the other hand is stronger because of other reasons as if you look at a broken mig weld its not as pure anyway,but its actually stronger because its made colder than a stick weld.Im not a engineer,but I have seen that it will take more abuse when you weld with a mig,especially the more brittle kind of steel.It somehow concentrates the heat a little longer in one spot. Having said all of that,there is experience that plays into welding anything,where you can turn down the heat just right,know when to quit,make sure you get even the real tiny bits of slag,and a bunch of other things involved as well. You dont really need to use start stop strips on a mig weld,but if you cant weld very good it may not hurt.The start and stop in the middle of a weld(when you weld you dont want to stop in the middle of an important weld and go eat supper)you need to finish it right then,even if it takes an hour or more,time it where you can do it without interuptions. There is a lot more to it,I will go weld an uphill bead and see if I remember some more.

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135 Fan

01-11-2008 12:19:42




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to trucker40, 01-11-2008 11:21:46  
I could add to that. Uphand welding has better penetration and is also a slower process than downhand. There is less chance for weld flaws going uphand because the slag will run down behind the puddle and out of the way. Uphand allows you to burn into the edges better and since it is slower and heat rises up, it preheats the area ahead of the weld. Most, if not all, weld procedures call for uphand welding with stick. MIG can have acceptable downhand welds because their is no slag to get in the way and the puddle freezes faster. Downhand MIG also allows for some weld build up where downhand 7018 makes a concave weld with no extra reinforcement across the face of the weld.Uphand MIG is still stronger however but isn't used much. Flux-core would be run uphand instead becuse it has better penetration and would be faster. Critical stuff would still be done with stick. Dave

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trucker40

01-11-2008 13:32:49




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to 135 Fan, 01-11-2008 12:19:42  
Ok,I went out and welded uphill and its kind of easy to see what you say,the slag falls out of the weld,you are in one spot longer,sort of preheats the area before its welded. Also 7018 is not deep penetrating rod,so any help you can give it,such as welding uphill,gets the most out of its limited penetration. Mig is slowed down by going uphill just a little maybe thats part of it,and you can control where the filler material is going into the side of the bevel.Besides what little slag there is being definitely at the bottom of the puddle rather than mixing in the weld.I think it makes the weld cleaner which probly means less porosity which is good for a mig weld.

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135 Fan

01-11-2008 22:18:27




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to trucker40, 01-11-2008 13:32:49  
Other than 6010 or 6011, 7018 has as much or more penetration than other rods. Downhand it will have low penetration and a concave weld with no reinforcement. The best profile for a fillet weld is if the face of the weld is slightly convex. A proper uphand 7018 should have the same profile as if the weld was done in the flat or horizontal position and the slag will usually just fall off by itself or need just a slight tap with a chipping hammer. The biggest reason to use 7018 is its mechanical properties. It is made for dynamic loaded structures with a lot of stress. If you look on a lot of packages of 7018, it will state that it is good for difficult to weld steels. It produces lower amounts of hydrogen in the weld which can cause cracking. This is why it is often called a low hydrogen rod. MIG is also considered a low hydrogen process but isn't normally specified for more critical jobs. A little while ago someone posted some pictures of welded pipe they did, that was done uphand with 7018. It is like making a shelf and depositing horizontal welds on top of each other. Care has be taken so the weld isn't weaved too wide. If it was a heavy wall pipe or really wide groove, more than one weld would have to deposited side by side. Some codes call for only stringer beads and some say 2 1/2 times rod diameter is the maximum weave width. A lot of times a weave more than 2 1/2 times rod diameter will be accepted as long as it is not too much wider and looks good. Pipe is usually X-rayed as well. The same techniques hold true for non pipe joints. Dave

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kito169

01-07-2008 18:13:31




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
whew



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MIKE FRENCH

01-07-2008 17:29:21




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
We have a 400 amp wire welder. It welds everything. We weld up barges to tug boats. Got to have one big enough to work on thick and bigger iron. Have a miller matic 250 in the shop, love it. My 2 cents.



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RobMD

01-07-2008 15:07:43




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
Find someone with a Millermatic 350. That oughta get a 1/2 inch deep penetration.



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Mort Adella

01-07-2008 15:03:47




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
I certified MIG/C02 on 3/8" v-grooved plate with backing strip right alongside of guys doing it with flux core and 7018 stick. Vertical up, and overhead.

Besides the inspectors observations of each person's set up and technique, we would cut out an grind down stips across the weld area and bend them for inspection for cracks.

Properly done each process could equaly pass the testing with equally full penetration and tested strenth.

That being said, If I am doing a repair on heavy material 3/8" or better I'll grab the rod and stick weld it.

Besides the 7018 having higher tensile strenth than the E70S-6 wire, the needed penetration with stick is just easier to achive.

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Stan in Oly, WA

01-07-2008 16:30:10




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Mort Adella, 01-07-2008 15:03:47  
Hi Mort Adella,

What leads you to say that 7018 stick has higher tensile strength than E70S-6 wire? Lincoln's Stick Electrode Product Catalog lists the highest tensile strength of any 7018 they sell as 76,000-91,000 psi, as welded. Their MIG Wire Product Catalog lists the highest tensile strength of any of the E70S-6's they sell as 85,400 psi, as welded. Those are the test results, by the way, not the AWS requirements. Using an average figure for the 7018, aren't those essentially the same values?

All the best, Stan

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glennster

01-07-2008 14:49:10




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
could be the spindle was a casting or forging, welded during manufacture and the heat treated. if so, it would be a tough one to weld.



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Stumpalump

01-07-2008 15:05:12




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to glennster, 01-07-2008 14:49:10  
Thats what we decided Glenster.Cast or hardened beyond what we need to be messing with. New part is almost 200 bucks. He will take it to a welding guru in Denver and let him see what he can do. I'll post back if he finds different. Thanks again to all.



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circus

01-07-2008 13:21:45




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
Be aware of what materials your welding. Cast irom, steel, cold or hot rolled. Some need preheating, multiple cooler passes etc. Some won't weld. I sometimes break test welds prior to the work piece until I'm satified the setup will work.



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edj856

01-07-2008 11:59:48




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
The pinholes are from too little gas or dirt and oil. I think a Millermatic 180 is only rated at 5/16" and that's with fluxcored wire, not solid. If it's been ground out and vee'd really good, it may work, but I would go with a bigger welder for that size material, at least a Miller 210 or a stick welder.



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Stan in Oly, WA

01-07-2008 11:45:00




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
Hi Stumpalump,

Porousity as you describe is usually the result of insufficient shielding gas resulting in entrapment of atmospheric gases in the weld. You're a pretty experienced welder so I won't bother listing the common reasons that happens, as I'm sure you already know them.

All the best, Stan



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old

01-07-2008 11:43:43




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
Thats one of the problem with mig welding. There a bubble gm weld at best and are no where near as strong as a stick weld. Either find a stick welder or have it done because the mig weld will never hold up



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BFO

01-07-2008 16:44:56




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to old, 01-07-2008 11:43:43  
Hi old. I used to think like you but have since been converted. It's true that so far I haven't had an employee pass a mig test the fist time, but when done properly are just as strong as a stick weld. I run fluxcore 90% of the time and ER70-6 the rest in the shop, can't afford to stick. I'll take fluxcore over stick any day.



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old

01-07-2008 17:16:11




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to BFO, 01-07-2008 16:44:56  
Now I can't say for sure if this still true but why is that ALL U.S. Ships for major parts that they use stick welds instead of mig welds. When I was in the Navy almost no weld was ever done with a mig welder and on SUBs. NONE of them where done with mig



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M.Anderson

01-07-2008 20:23:54




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to old, 01-07-2008 17:16:11  
Old, Check out the t.v. show Build it Big on Disc channel .They showed the newest air craft carrier being built all component sub assem. Being welded with robotic MIG welders. Same on Heavy equipment look at cat loaders Mig is just as strong but twice as fast. Time is money. M.Anderson



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BFO

01-07-2008 18:52:48




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to old, 01-07-2008 17:16:11  
the shipyard here uses Lincoln LN25 wire feeders and 71M. In the field if the job is big enough I use my LN25 and NR211 self shielded fluxcore. To each his own.



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135 Fan

01-07-2008 23:42:09




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to BFO, 01-07-2008 18:52:48  
NR 211 is a general purpose innershield wire and is not designed for dynamic loading. It's good for stuff that just sits there. If you look at the brochure for it, you will see that it takes many, many passes to meet specs. Dave



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BFO

01-08-2008 03:22:44




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to 135 Fan, 01-07-2008 23:42:09  
yes I know. It's great for plug welding 1/4" bent plate overhead door frames. Thanks!



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Stan in Oly, WA

01-07-2008 13:44:32




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to old, 01-07-2008 11:43:43  
Hi old,

I don't like to argue with you, old, because I think you're one of the nicest, most helpful people to post on this site (and the quality of your information is always very high.) But I'm with Ken on this one. Just because MIG is the process that makes it easiest for people to produce worthless welds that look perfectly good, that doesn't mean that a careful, experienced person, taking the time to do it right, can't produce welds as good as the metal of the electrode is capable of.

Dave (135 Fan) and I went around a few times about this issue not too long ago. The conclusion we finally reached was something like this: MIG welding is so frequently done badly that its potential for producing welds as good as stick sometimes seems closer to being theoretical than real. But that doesn't mean that there isn't a huge amount of critical, structural welding going on in the world with MIG.

I'll say the same thing to you that I've said to other experienced weldors. I'll bet that you yourself could take a good quality MIG welder of the appropriate size for the job, and after you'd had some time to get used to its particular characteristics, you could produce welds with it that nobody could find fault with. The other side of that equation is that I'm sure you've seen countless stick welds that you wouldn't have trusted to withstand the force of a light breeze. Just because stick CAN be done very badly doesn't make you think it can't ever be done right.

All the best, Stan

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135 Fan

01-07-2008 23:32:48




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stan in Oly, WA, 01-07-2008 13:44:32  
Perhaps I can shed some light here. When done properly MIG can be very close to the same strength as stick. However MIG does not have quite as much ductility. On pressure vessels and piping which is a more critical application, MIG is often used for the root pass because it is easier and faster. The fill and cap passes are done with stick. Really critical work will have a TIG root pass followed by stick fill and cap. For the particular job of welding a spindle/hub, I would prefer to use stick (7018) if I had a choice. If not gas shielded MIG could still do the job. I would grind a V on each side of the joint and also grind a little off of the ends to allow for a slight gap. A piece of angle iron or something could be used to hold the pieces in alignment. Then I would preheat the joint so it is fairly hot. It doesn't have to be real super hot. About 200 deg. or so would be OK. Then I would put a couple tacks on one side and then weld the other side making sure to weave side to side into both pieces while trying to get as much penetration into the gap as possible. After the one side has a weld, I would go back to the first side and not only grind the tacks out but also grind into the weld I just did and check for porosity or other flaws. I would then put a weld in making sure to penetrate into the weld I did from the other side. If there were flaws in the first weld, I would completely gring it out and check for flaws in the second weld from the other side. I would then redo the first weld making sure to penetrate into the second weld. If there was flaws with the second weld, I would grind it out again and redo it also. A crack only needs the slightest imperfection to develop. After I was sure the weld was clean and had 100% penetration I would clean up each pass slightly with a grinder and then run stringer beads alternately on each side. I would put a pass on each side of the V and then fill in the middle after the sides were done. Uphand would have better penetration than down hand if I couldn't do it in the flat position. You don't want to weave too wide because more passes will give a finer grain structure making it stronger. It should be built up about the thickness of dime oversize. This would give maximum strength but could be ground flat if needed. You don't want the piece to get too hot, so you may want to let it cool a bit if it's getting really hot. When the welding is completed a non flammable blanket could be wrapped around it to slow the cooling rate. After it's cooled off would the time to grind it to size. Hope this helps. Dave

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NBAllen

01-07-2008 15:06:13




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stan in Oly, WA, 01-07-2008 13:44:32  
I've got to agree with Stan and Ken. I work for a locomotive manufacturer and easily 98% of our welding is done with the MIG process. Depending on the weld procedure, we use different shielding gases (C-25, Ar, C-10, etc.); we also use flux core for some of the heavier joints.

The project I am currently working on requires x-ray, mag-particle, and / or dye-penetrant testing on all critical structural welds. All of those welds were laid in with flux core or hard wire MIG.

If we have a stick welder on site, it is stuffed in the back corner of a storage building, gathering dust.

Nathaniel

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old

01-07-2008 14:15:29




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stan in Oly, WA, 01-07-2008 13:44:32  
Stan, I know about mig welding since back in the early 90s I did it for a living and I even tried to do welds as strong as stick welds with mig and NONE ever held up to a load as well as a stick weld. Unless they have changed a lot of thing as far as the wire used now days a mig weld is not as strong, but as I said I did it back in the 90s so things may have changed. Yes lots of things are done with mig now days because of speed but till I see it I will always believe a stick weld is and will be stronger then a mig weld. Yep one of the many things I retired from. I also have done tig welding and got good enough to weld a beer can and then drink out of it but thats also been a long time ago

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Puddles

01-07-2008 17:21:56




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to old, 01-07-2008 14:15:29  
In the 1970�s for 2-years straight every 3-months I was required by the NRC to re-test with the mig process. 3-positions, horizontal, vertical, and overhead. 1-inch thick single bevel plate, 3/8-inch side bend test. How much stronger does a weld need to be if you can bend the plate 180�? With no visible imperfections!



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T_Bone

01-08-2008 04:49:12




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Puddles, 01-07-2008 17:21:56  
I'll agree with Stan as back in 1980 I worked at the Hanford nuclear plants and was certified in Mig, Tig and stick.

The plants are still running to day.

T_Bone



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JT

01-07-2008 13:28:00




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to old, 01-07-2008 11:43:43  
Old, I used to use that argument all the time, "a mig was not as good as a stick", until I bought a wire welder, mine is not a mig, it is just a small wire welder with the flux core wire, you would be amazed at what that little welder will do. you get the same results with a mig as you will with a stick. if you get a bubble gum weld with a mig, you need more heat, just like if you get a bubble gun weld with a stick, you need to make some adjustments. It is all a matter of having the right equipment to do the right job. Jim

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old

01-07-2008 14:19:03




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to JT, 01-07-2008 13:28:00  
Sorry can't agree with you but I also was a mig welder at one time and did it for a living for about 10 years. I have also been a tig welder and I always end up going back to stick welding if I want a good strong weld. Mig is ok and so it tig for some things but for the strongest weld you have to use a stick welder. Unless tings have changed since I retired they still use stick welding to build the most important things on.in ships and also in oil pipe lines

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Kemper

01-08-2008 02:24:41




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to old, 01-07-2008 14:19:03  
The reason they weld ships and pipe lines etc with stick welders is just because they are welding outside and a mig is not made to weld out in the wind,the wind will blow the gas away and you will end up with pin holes and a cold weld.

I weld everything with a mig and never have a weld break, the trick is you have to have a mig rated to the thickness of the metal you are welding,iv'e seen alot of people with a 110v lincoln think they can weld 3/8 and 1/2 inch and they don't have the heat,the weld looks good but isn't going to hold anything,my snap on will weld half inch single pass with no problem whatsoever.

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Ken Macfarlane

01-07-2008 12:33:52




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to old, 01-07-2008 11:43:43  
Nothing wrong with a MIG weld at all Old, just need the right size welder and wire, the same as a stick welder. Sounds like you were working outside and with too small a welder, and maybe the weld area wasn't cleaned enough.

I sure miss the big wire feeder and power source I had back in school, back to using stick for the big stuff, and my little sheet metal mig.



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old

01-07-2008 14:22:35




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Ken Macfarlane, 01-07-2008 12:33:52  
Nope I was a welder and did it for years as a living. Mig just isn't as strong as stick welding unless they have changed things since I retired. I know for a fact theres 1000s of boat docks all over the world that I did the welding on but if I want a strong weld its stick because its just plain stronger and will hold up to more PSI before it brakes then a mig weld will. Welding is one of the many things I retired from doing for a living

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Ken Macfarlane

01-09-2008 05:26:48




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to old, 01-07-2008 14:22:35  
Old, I'd agree until general welding situations, especially in the field, stick is stronger but in production settings mig can be just as strong and faster. Of course sometimes this means using special wire and submerge arc etc which isn't what somebody at home has or is willing to bother with.



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old

01-09-2008 08:55:22




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Ken Macfarlane, 01-09-2008 05:26:48  
Ya that part of my point also. The common man isn't going to spend $10,000 plus just for a mig welder that is made to do the real heavy stuff plus pay for the gas needed to do so. Sp the common hobby shop type welding stick is the way to go unless the guys doing body work then he needs a small mig or tig welder and those can be hard for less then $300

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Puddles

01-09-2008 09:26:51




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to old, 01-09-2008 08:55:22  
To quote Old
�Ya that part of my point also. The common man isn't going to spend $10,000 plus just for a mig welder that is made to do the real heavy stuff plus pay for the gas needed to do so. Sp the common hobby shop type welding stick is the way to go unless the guys doing body work then he needs a small mig or tig welder and those can be hard for less then $300�

Bingo! I don�t know about the $10,000.00 tho. I�ll tell you what is scary, when the inexperienced DIYer goes to Home Depot buys a 120-volt Mig machine, and decides to built a trailer, and hitch for his pickup. That yours and my family has to be on the same road with, now that�s scary! I believe that is where the term �HOT GLUE GUN� came from. There are pictures all over the Internet of welds that were made with these jokes of a welding machine that look like bubble gum. In fact I use to have a Logan horse trailer, the Bulldog coupler was welded on at the factory in Logan Utah, looked just like bubble gum, now I take it, as these were professionals who did this! But I swear Ray Charles could have done a better job! I personally have no use for any Mig machine that doesn�t have a minimum of 220-volts single-phase input power. And what few I�ve ever ran seemed as their sweet spot was with .035 wire, sure I ran them with 1/16th wire, but they just lacked the umf to really burn it in! Ok I�ll get off my soapbox now.

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old

01-09-2008 10:23:37




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Puddles, 01-09-2008 09:26:51  
You see my point and why I say stick is the way to go and I don't mean one of those 110 stick jobs but one of the good old Lincoln buzz boxes or better. And you can buy a stick job for about 1/4 of what a good mig unit is going to cost you



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Ken Macfarlane

01-09-2008 12:30:35




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to old, 01-09-2008 10:23:37  
My point is using a stick welder with the wrong rod and amperage won't get you much further ahead than the mig. Chances are better that someone can help you though.

I've got a little 110v Lincoln Mig I use all the time, and it can outperform my Lincoln buzz box up to about a gauge shy of 1/8", a right at 1/8" if you put some heavy flux core wire in it. But it is useless beyond that, and 0.023 wire is only good for sheet metal.

It does bother me seeing guys trying to weld 1/4" with them without even bothering to do multiple passes.

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JMS/.MN

01-07-2008 11:41:15




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
Pinholes could be from inadequate gas flow. Welding outside in a strong wind can do the same. Shielding gas isn"t doing its job.



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trucker40

01-07-2008 11:41:09




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
It needs to be clean.You need to grind a V in it if it cant penetrate it all the way.Having not seen it,couldnt say for sure what else is wrong.Just a guess,since most people do this is you probly have too big of a gap between your metal you are welding and the nozzle.You need to get in there close.You need to keep the nozzle and gas close to the weld so you dont have any pinholes.If the wind is blowing your gas away you need to make a windbreak so you can weld right.Its better to run a lot of beads on top of each other with less heat and wire speed and no pinholes,than a big,undercut,pinholed weld,that wont hold. If you do a mig weld right,it will hold as much as a weld done by a buzz box.Both of them have to be done right or they will break. What you are welding sounds like it would be better done by welding uphill so its as strong as possible.Done right and the weld wont break,but the metal next to the weld might break.You should not even see the inside of your mig weld.What you maybe should see is the metal next to your weld broken,but not your weld.

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farmerweber

01-07-2008 11:06:40




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
Could have been dirt or oil in the joint.Solid wire is pretty susceptible to dirt.Fluxcored wire is better with the dirt and it gives much deeper penetration.I run fluxcore at work everyday and in the smaller diameters it works really good.If you can get it good and clean and am going to stick weld it,a low hydrogen rod like a 7018 works good.One other thing before I forget,if you can, heat the piece up to 200-250 degrees before hand and give it another little shot of heat after welding.

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Mike M

01-07-2008 10:41:16




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 Re: My weld broke in reply to Stumpalump, 01-07-2008 10:09:06  
I have seen that problem even with factory mig welds on some stuff. Look great but aren't holding anything.



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