110 electric question

Anyway I have a 10-2 w/ground bury able wire run to the pump house now for my 220v pump. So I need to run a 14 ga neutral. Then I got to thinking; what if I have a problem with the light only. How is it going to throw a 2 pole breaker when it is only hooked to 1 pole?
I know they run dryers with 220 and 110 on 4 wires. 2 hot; 1 neutral; 1 ground.

So should I just get a 14-2 w/ground and run a separate wire for the light from a different breaker or is running a neutral wire alone and hooking the light to 1 pole of the 220 enough.

Suppose to get a little chilly tonight. Down to mid 20�s tonight and low 20�s tomorrow night. BRRRRR RR!!!!! !!!

Those little utility heaters have a thermostat and you can generally get it set to where the pumphouse stays at around 40 degrees. I have never had one fail and I dont have to go up to the pumphouse at midnight in the snow cause I forgot to turn on the heatlamp. Done that for 30 plus years before I got tired of that.

Gene

If you go the 2 or 3 bulbs in a series route an easy way is to get 2 or 3 of the waterproof sockets that have pigtails on them and connect the tails in series and a plug on the end.

Will try the local elect. supply Sat and see what they got or can get in 240v light or a 240-110 transformer. If that becomes a real problem I may just do the 3 110v lights.

Thanks for all the help. I have gotten several ideas to work with now that I never thought of before.

The size of the new wire is determined by the full load amps of the pump motor and heating element and factoring in the length in case voltage drop becomes an issue. The circuit breaker is also a function of the total load and factoring in the initial start up current draw of the motor.

As a long retired electrical engineer whose rusty as an old nail on the NEC and now and Attorney I always enjoy these legal or electrical questions where a lot of opinions (most extremely worthwhile others perhaps not) roll out of the woodwork in an effort to help the poster. Hopefully you get the correct SAFE advice and we alllll ll (Especially code rusty old me lol) can learn a thing or two in the meantime.

Best wishes n keep it safe

John T

Sorry this isn't the most tractor related subject, but with your interest in law I was hoping you could provide me with a simple answer to a question, in layman's terms, if you don't mind:

What does "tenants by the entirety" mean in terms of land ownership? The general background info: we are residents of Wisconsin and bought a parcel of land in Hawaii. The title states we own it under that phrase or term.

We are used to joint ownership. How is this different?

I do thank you for your time and consideration.

Fred J.

John T

The ground wire is hopefully never used - it is there to keep things safe. It is a path to drain electricity away when it is in the wrong place, make breakers work better.

Both the neutral & ground need to go to earth, so they are bonded one time to ground (rod & water pipes most likely) at the main enterance. If you connect them together _any_ other place, you end up making a full loop of the 2 - a circle, and they no longer funtion seperately. If the nuetral wire goes bad, you are putting full voltage on all exposed metal surfaces & won't know it - etc. Full circles are bad with electricity, you lose control of what is happening.

Each has a seperate job to do. That only works right if they are only joined at _one_ spot in the main box.

--->Paul

Now where should I look for a 220v socket and light bulb at????? ????

Thanks for the help.

I dont think I would do that. A small 220 volt space heater or 110 volt heat lamp properly wired would be your best bet.

steveormary

No staggering around in the dark in this pump house.
4' wide x 4' long x 4' high
Just big enough for the 2" pipe coming out the ground; a baffel tank and a 1hp pump.
1 flood light keeps it nice and toasty in there.