Difference in quality of electrical fixtures

What about differences in performance after installation? Are there ways that quality fitures hold up better in normal use than cheap ones? It seems pretty rare for an outlet to break in normal use, although the little piece of plastic between the ground prong hole and the edge of the raised panel breaks off pretty easily. I consider this more of a cosmetic problem than a functional one.

Are some brands of electrical fixtures better than others, or do all major brands have grades from premium down to garbage? I'm familiar with Leviton and Eagle; I can't think of other brands off the top of my head.

Thanks, Stan

After you get used to heft and quality of these guys, the low end stuff feels like unsafe toys. But I also sometimes think that maybe I went too far with the receptacles.

The "Federal Spec" requires the receptacle to demonstrate something like at least 10 pounds of static retention force AFTER being pre-tested by having the plug forcibly yanked out 10 times.

As a consequence, it takes considerable force (a 15 pound push or more) to put a plug into one of these things, and a similar effort to remove it. The electrical boxes had better be sturdily mounted. This is great for a shop, but it gets to be kind of overkill when plugging in a vacuum cleaner or whatever, and others in your household may complain about it.

I'm glad you brought that up. It occasionally does happen that you can overdo a system by not keeping in mind that at some point you get a functional change rather than merely a qualitative one. Years ago my BIL did an extensive remodel for a doctor who insisted on having his (city) water supply system upgraded to commercial standards so that he would never have to deal with low water pressure. Of course it cost a lot of money, but when it was done he had lots of water pressure. In fact, he had so much water pressure that his fixtures wouldn't handle it, and he had to have my BIL go back and install a pressure reducing device at the house main. This solved the problem by bringing the pressure back to about what it would have been with a first-rate residential installation.

This was a long time ago, and something I wasn't involved in, so I only know that that's approximately what happened.

All the best, Stan

The 15 amp is expensive, but the 20 amp is more, and truthfully, you are getting the exact same components.

The cheapies are just that, cheap. they don't last long, they don't have good spring contacts and after you plug and unplug stuff a couple of times, the plug won't stay in.

I use Leviton Pro, or Cooper/Eagle (Pro version), or Hubbell, of the type with backwire, you slip the wire in, and tighten the screw, a serrated plate captures the wire, strong, solid contact. They all have models with Nylon faces that are less prone to cracking and breaking, especially at the ground pin.

Charles

Second, a NEMA 5-15 plug isnt the same as a 5-20 plug. The 15 amp will fit into a 20 amp receptacle but a 20 and will NOT fit into a 15 amp receptacle.

Sooooo a NEMA 5-15R receptacle and a NEMA 5-20R receptacle ARE NOT THE SAME THING AT ALL besides the outer shell/cover. 1) They have different heat dissipating ratings,,,,, ,,,,, 2) they allow different plugs to be fit into them (20R takes either 15R only one) and 3) They have different ampacity ratings which relates to the heat dissipation capacity described above.

HOPE THIS HELPS, Yall take care now, Happy New Year n God Bless STAY SAFEEEEE EEEE

John T Retired Electrical Engineer

It must be cheaper for them to put the same 20 amp components in all of the high quality receptacles, and just not make it where you can use the horizontal blade contacts, rather than make two different sets of contacts.

I'm not saying its ok to draw 20 amps thru a 15 amp receptacle, but I am pointing out that you have alot of cushion as far as durability and quality and ability to carry current, if you use one of the higher quality receptacles such as I mentioned. If its less than about $3.75 I won't even look at it.

Charles

Of course the heat and ampacity ratings NOT to mention the blade differences are not the same for the 15 and 20 as I posted above, but hey Im all for a free market n got no problem if they are selling a higher rated unit.

Fun n interesting chat, yall take care

John T

HTH

Areo

From the wallplate side, the typical homeowner isn�t going to be able to tell the difference. I think it�s pretty subjective. If you�re going to plug in a living room lamp, and leave it there for the next 5 years, maybe it really doesn�t make a difference if you use the cheapest. Kitchen use with counter appliances plugged in and out frequently and higher amp draw demands more durability. When I�ve done work for anyone else, I�ve always used the mid quality to know I�ve covered contingencies I have no control over after I�ve left. As I would in my own home. In my own shop I use the commercial recepticals for heavy duty, long term durability.

As an example the cheap receptacles loose tension n the plugs almost fall out while the expensive ones retain that tight grip much longer and likewise the cheap switches get loose contacts and can get carbon n resistive much sooner

FINALLY you have to compare apples to apples here remember. Theres an obvious big differnce in a NEMA 5-15 15 amp rated receptacle versus the 5-20 20 amp rated in addition to just the shape prongs it can accept or not. IF I were designing even for a residential application Id use 20 amp rated receptacles instead of 15 plus all the other AFCI and GFCI receptacles as required.

Likewise if the box store sells the exact same model n part number n spec n its cheaper I see no reason why both shouldnt be the same, its just that the electrical shop likely only carries the high end equipment.

Then you get into the realllll l reallyyyyy yyy good equipment like hospital grade wooooo hooooo o I once had occassion to get hold of some of that n darnnnnn n its good stuff lol

Best wishes,

John T

As an example the cheap receptacles loose tension n the plugs almost fall out while the expensive ones retain that tight grip much longer and likewise the cheap switches get loose contacts and can get carbon n resistive much sooner

FINALLY you have to compare apples to apples here remember. Theres an obvious big differnce in a NEMA 5-15 15 amp rated receptacle versus the 5-20 20 amp rated in addition to just the shape prongs it can accept or not. IF I were designing even for a residential application Id use 20 amp rated receptacles instead of 15 plus all the other AFCI and GFCI receptacles as required.

Likewise if the box store sells the exact same model n part number n spec n its cheaper I see no reason why both shouldnt be the same, its just that the electrical shop likely only carries the high end equipment.

Then you get into the realllll l reallyyyyy yyy good equipment like hospital grade wooooo hooooo o I once had occassion to get hold of some of that n darnnnnn n its good stuff lol

Best wishes,

John T

steveormary