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Concrete help

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Warren

07-25-2001 07:38:01




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I know this is not a tool related question, but I have seen a lot of good, common sense answers before - so here goes.
The concrete approach to my garage has settled over the past 10 years. Now the pad is about 4" below the garage floor surface causing quite a bump when I drive into the garage. I would like to fix this before I goof up the alignment on my vehicles.
I am looking for the cheapest and easiest fix. I can bust them out and repour new pads, or I can hire a "mudjacker" to lift them with new concrete under the pad. Both solutions will work, but will be expensive. I would like to know if it would work to pour a new layer of concrete over the existing pad. The depth would vary from 2" - 4" across the pad. How do you suggest I do this (if at all)? Do I have to prep the pad in some way? Should I attach rebar to the old pad with bolts through the concrete? Is the steel mesh going to be effective in this setting? What about the fiberglass fiber reinforced concrete?
Let me know of any good ideas for a good fix.
Thanks in advance

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Mike Jossel

11-23-2002 13:59:51




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 Re: Concrete help in reply to Warren, 07-25-2001 07:38:01  
Two years ago I ripped out all the concrete around our house and replaced it with (grey)dyed concrete that we had stamped. In the back of the house we want to have a patio room constructed, but the patio room needs an extremely level and even surface for the track that the patio room walls will fit into. One of the suggestions the contractor had was either to grind the perimeter surfaces flat or pour a stemwall after 4" of the perimeter was sawed and removed. Is it at all possible to pour a 4" wide by 4" tall concrete stemwall over the existing concrete and have it bond?? I would drill holes every 12" apart and epoxy vertical rebar into the holes to anchor the new stemwall. The vertical rebar would be tied into horizontal rebar in the center of the stemwall. Would it be necessary to add expoxy or some other admixture to the new concrete so that it would bond to the old concrete?..... ..Mike Jossel (mjossel@yahoo.com)

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Dean

07-25-2001 09:08:21




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 Re: Concrete help in reply to Warren, 07-25-2001 07:38:01  
I hired a crew to do exactly that. They used air-entrained, fiber reinforced, 4,000 lb mix, no mesh, no rebar. They left me a small pile which I leveled to about 2" thick and let dry. Went back with a 10 lb. sledge hammer to see how strong it was. Let's just say it was near impossible to break up.

I drive my 10,00 lb tractor over it and it still, after 4 years, looks as good as the day they laid it.

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Noel

07-26-2001 15:44:17




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 Re: Re: Concrete help in reply to Dean, 07-25-2001 09:08:21  
Just one question, Dean. How did they "bond the old slab to the new slab? Latex/acrylic bonding agent, or by some mechanicalmeans (drilled holes in existing slab with rebar sticking up, as an example?



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Franz

07-26-2001 22:36:46




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 Re: Re: Re: Concrete help in reply to Noel, 07-26-2001 15:44:17  
WR Grace and others make excellent latex bonding agents for this purpose. I've feathered out to half an inch with that stuff, and it's still there 8 years later. I also added the latex to the concrete as it was mixed.
If you pressure wash the original slab first, bonding with a latex additive should work well.
The only other suggestion I'd make is to vibrate the pour when you do it, to eliminate any trapped air. You'll have a much denser and stronger concrete. This will also eliminate small holes that accumulate water in the concrete and cause spalling when it freezes. Pinning into holes with rebar can get real iffy, especially in areas where road salt comes into play. The salt will find the rebar, and eventually, the rust will blow the concrete apart, about 5 years in upper New York state.

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