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Need advice on hay barn

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Willy P

12-12-2007 19:13:09

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I am thinking about building a portable hay barn on skids about 25 ft wide and about 60 ft long. The plan is to take 2 3/8 pipe and weld some 2 7/8 about 1 ft long to it about 6 ft apart and cut some 2 3/8 about 15 ft long and put in the larger pipe for the post or uprights and on top of that build some trusses out of 2&2 about 11 guage square tubing and connect them on top of the post with some larger pipe so that it can be taken down. Next put the tin on horizontally instead of vertical like they are building these small carports out of and not have any purlins on it. Put hay in it with the balewagon and slide the building forward and pick up the bales with a grapple and then push it back over the hay.We don't have snow here that stays on the roof so the weight wouldn't be a problem. may have to anchor it down so the wind doesn't blow it away.Will this work and does anybody have and advice? I need to make it where it can come apart because it will be on a lease place and don't want to put up permanent buildings. Thanks

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paul

12-14-2007 10:15:16

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Re: Need advice on hay barn in reply to Willy P, 12-12-2007 19:13:09

Just build it 3 feet taller as a real building and you won't have all the fuss, and it will be cheaper anyhow.

--->Paul

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T_Bone

12-13-2007 21:43:37

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Re: Need advice on hay barn in reply to Willy P, 12-12-2007 19:13:09

Hi Willy P,

Without getting out my engineering refferences, I'd make the building 32ft wide x 60ft/80ft long as then it could be split in half on the long side and just like MH's are transported. Only a cheap oversized load "trip" permit would be needed to move the building as both halfs would be the same so only one permit.

I would make the center roof rafter beam out of 2x2x1/4" angle on a 14" truss design. Both half's then could be slid together with a over lapping roof. Use a rubber gasket inbetween the two sections for a seal. Look at garage door seals as there dirt cheap.

I would make my axle (3) connections out of pipe that spaned under the floor deck. I would then add axle stubs with wheels and hubs to slip inside the main frame axle tubes, quick pined to frame axle tube when I wanted to transport the building. The wheel stubs could be shared between the buildings for transporting.

I would build the building just like I would for any normal shed construction other than adding several cornner gussets to keep the building square while moving it. Vertical X bracing is a just a plain good design consideration for any well made building.
You will need to add "several" temporary angle iron X bracing on each half width before moving each building half.

If you'll observe horse trailer and semi trailer designs, you can see where they both use side rail beam designs for carrying the vertical load weight while in motion. This beam is usually a 14" x 10ga plate running the continious length of the "box" on both sides starting at the sub-floor level. A 4" I-beam floor joist 16"oc works well with 1-1/2" decking.
T_Bone

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randallinMo

12-13-2007 11:38:29

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Re: Need advice on hay barn in reply to Willy P, 12-12-2007 19:13:09

Like SO many of my ideas, your idea is a VERY GOOD idea that AIN'T GONNA WORK. I don't mean to dampen your enthusiasm, but you will have WAY too much lift created by the airfoil effect of the roof to ever hold it down.

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NBAllen

12-13-2007 09:55:46

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Re: Need advice on hay barn in reply to Willy P, 12-12-2007 19:13:09

Hmmm...Interesting Idea.

could you pour some concrete "posts" that the bottom skid pipe would nest in and could be strapped / bolted down?

The building could be securely anchored, but is not "permanent" and thereby avoids any ownership issues. Maybe?

With 15'+ to the top of the posts do you need to slide the building back and forth? What a) the intended clear span height, and b) what is the clearance required by your stack wagon / bale grapple?

I would be surprised if the sheetmetal holds up to that kind of motion - the building will sway and wiggle A LOT when sliding it back-and-forth. (Or require significant (heavy, complicated) cross-bracing to make the whole thing rigid!)

Nathaniel
Mechanical Engineer

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E.B. Haymakin'

12-12-2007 20:20:58

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Re: Need advice on hay barn in reply to Willy P, 12-12-2007 19:13:09

I have been thinking along the same lines. I"m a very small hay operation, and have been thinking about temporary storage. Your idea may work, the anchoring is a must, and may complicate getting to your bales if they are large round bales-not being able to move. If you try it I would like to know the results. I don"t have much venture capital behind me, and my current buildings are fixed. Good luck.

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Willy P

12-13-2007 04:42:02

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Re: Need advice on hay barn in reply to E.B. Haymakin', 12-12-2007 20:20:58

Yes it is for little square bales,that is one reason for the skids,so I can slide it down and then the bales are out n the opening to pickup with the grapple easier. But do ya'll think that the 11 guage 2&2 square tubing will be strong enough for the trusses every 6 ft without using purlins just putting the tin horizontal? Thanks

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Goose

12-12-2007 19:42:14

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Re: Need advice on hay barn in reply to Willy P, 12-12-2007 19:13:09

Before I read all of your post, I was already thinking, "Anchor that sucker down, and do a good job of it".

I once built a portable hog house about half that size and used it for a couple of years by anchoring it with cables and three foot long anchors that screwed into the ground. One end had a four foot high opening all the way across. Then, one good gust of Nebraska wind and away it went, anchors and all.

Other than that, I don't see why it wouldn't work.

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