Back to solder for a minute...

1- When prepping the metal for solder, should the gavl coating be completely removed or just shined up to take off top layer corrosion/dirt/oil/ect?

2- When applying the muratic acid, is it diluted to a point or applied full strength?

3- If using the acid, is a fresh water wash enough when finished or should a baking soda solution be used to neutralize the acid?

4- Since it's getting harder to find 50/50 solder, can non-lead solder still be used with the muratic acid flux and or with the galv?

The galvanize (zink) is what the solder sticks to. Lead/tin solder won't stick to steel.

Use 60/40 electronics solder which is easier to melt if the strength is not critical.

Bismuth solders work fine.

Most fluxes have muratic in them Flush and use soda.

KRM

I did find an outlet for the 50/50 solder but had to sign a paper stating that I understand it is not to be used on any potable water systems or food items.

The remaining question is, will the new lead free solder also work for this application? This is a higher strength alloy with more resistance to corrosion and is what I would prefer to use if at all possible?

Can't answer that one for you. See if you can get a small piece of it and see if it will wet out the galvanize when you melt it.

KRM

The main reason I was asking is that I need to make some special funnels and drain pans to service some of fleet trucks I'm taking care of now rather than making a mess every time. Using the glav steel will make for nice neat looking pans as opposed to welding plain steel or grinding the glav off to get a weld on it. Don't require weld type strength but would like them to be as strong as possible.

I'll give an update post when I get some time to do these and let you know how it works. Many thanks for the help! Always something new to learn.

You may want to consider cutting the blank sheets to get lap joints in the corners, then pop rivet them together using RTV between the tabs before pop riveting.

Just a thought.

KRM