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Soldering galvanized

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Rob--On

07-14-2001 10:37:30




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Hi all. I have some radiator panels from a Rumely tractor that need some TLC and repair. Appear to be made from galvanized sheet metal and originally soldered at the seams. Looking for advice and type of solder and flux to best do the repairs. I may have to open some up to try to clean the insides of accumulated junk. Thanks for any hints. Rob.




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Peter J

07-18-2001 16:33:16




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 Re: Soldering galvanized in reply to Rob--On, 07-14-2001 10:37:30  
This advise is from a 30 year Local 20, Sheetmetal Workers member who served a 4 year apprenticeship. No. 1 rule: Everything has to perfectly clean! Use a 1 or 2 lb. copper soldering iron. Use a block of sal amoniac to clean the iron. Use muriatic acid for a flux. Use 50/50 solder. Technique is gained by practice.
PJ



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Bill

07-17-2001 23:52:59




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 Re: Soldering galvanized in reply to Rob--On, 07-14-2001 10:37:30  
As a heat source a soldering iron is the best to use, second to that is the propane tourch with the copper tip attachment this way you have more control over the heat. To clean the galvanized sheet metal tank muratic acid works the best, however there is a down side to this:1st require a well ventalated area as the acid produces a natural fume and generates a somewhat more nausis fume as its heated, 2nd don't be scared to brush on more muratic acid to keep the solder flowing evenly throughout your repair. To clean the work surface later, muratic acid can be cleaned off by washing you work area with a ragand lots of water. Try a small piece of galvanized metal to get the idea, as mutatic acid is applied the surface of the galvanzied metal turns black indicating surface is ready for soldering, apply your heat source and solder, the solder will run freely where ever you run your iron in the treated surface. Have fun but beware of the fumes.

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Dale

07-15-2001 20:45:44




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 Re: Soldering galvanized in reply to Rob--On, 07-14-2001 10:37:30  
I work in a metal shop where we solder a lot of gal. metal. First get it CLEAN before you start a dremel tool works good . you will need a 1 or 2 lb soldering iron if the metal is thiner than 20 ga.,we use acid flux if it can be cleaned after its soldered(both sides) or ruby fluid with 50/50 solder.



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Mike

07-14-2001 18:32:59




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 Re: Soldering galvanized in reply to Rob--On, 07-14-2001 10:37:30  
I use 50/50 solder, and always used muratic acid instead of flux. It aways worked great on the miles and miles of galvanized gutters I soldered.



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mac

07-14-2001 16:44:04




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 Re: Soldering galvanized in reply to Rob--On, 07-14-2001 10:37:30  
rob: Before plastic took over, I have always had good luck with 50-50 solder. I use the non-acid paste flux..Before repainting however the flux residue has to be removed with a good degreaser. I expect brake kleen would do the trick on that part. I have used Carb. cleaner in the aerosol can. Make sure what you are soldering is very clean in order to do a neat job. If you are not to close to anyother solder connections, you can use silver solder also. If new galv. metal is used for braces or brackets, the coating must be removed for the solder to adhere.

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Rob--On

07-15-2001 18:48:01




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 Re: Re: Soldering galvanized in reply to mac, 07-14-2001 16:44:04  
What would be your recommendation for a heat source? A small propane torch,the small handheld cylinder, or a large copper soldering iron? The original looks like it was done with the copper although the torches may not have existed in the late 1920's. They likely did have some form of torch in the manufacturing plants tho. I also could use an acetylene set-up,but am worried this may be too hot. What is your suggestion? Rob.

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