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Hi sonny2, I also have a welder which sounds like a combination of the one you have and the one Brad Gyde describes. Mine is a Powr Kraft which was M/W's house brand for their welders. It says Montgomery Ward in small print on the front. Mine was yellow with a black face. I let the top get rusty and couldn't match that yellow to touch it up, so now it's red. It looks better red. It is 230 AC / 140 DC with the duty cycles of AC High, AC Low, and DC down the front face beside the sliding amperage adjustment handle. It claims to have a 100% duty cycle up to 140 amps AC High, and 80 amps DC. It also has 3 holes near the top of the left side of the face to plug in the electrode holder lead, AC High or Low, and a hole to plug in the ground cable. Under the hole for High it says, "E6013 electrodes---welding, cutting and burning holes." Near the bottom of the face, also on the left, are holes for DC+ and DC-. To change the amperage setting on this machine you squeeze the handles together, like opening a pinch clamp, and slide them up or down. When the handles are beside the setting you want you release them and the slide locks in place---or, in the case of my welder, doesn't. This situation reveals itself as the amperage changes during welding; not during a welding session, but while making a single weld. It adds a whole new dimension to the challenges of stick welding. Does your welder change amperage while you're welding? If so, have you figured out anything to do about it? I've had mine open and couldn't see anything to be done there. I figured out a way to hold the selector in place externally. It's easy enough, and effective, but it has a makeshift quality about it that I think will make it hard to sell the welder. All the best, Stan
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