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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Increasing hydraulic pressure

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Rayy

11-26-2007 13:16:00




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I put a double spool valve off a case 1840 skid loader on my log splitter and I want to increase the pressure going through the control valve (spool valve). Does any body know what springs to turn, shim out/in. I only use one side of the valve to move the splitter cylinder in and out and I just put on a 16 GMP pump, it gets to the log quicker and returns home but it just dont have the power to split big logs. It doesnt bog the engine down. (12 HP briggs). My buddy said you can shim/adjust springs in them to push the pressure to the cylinder and not back to the tank. Any Ideas?

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El Toro

12-04-2007 09:04:54




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 Re: Increasing hydraulic pressure in reply to Rayy, 11-26-2007 13:16:00  
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Here's a sketch of the hydraulic layout for a log splitter. Hal



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mj

11-30-2007 15:06:27




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 Re: Increasing hydraulic pressure in reply to Rayy, 11-26-2007 13:16:00  
[quote="El Toro"](quoted from post at 09:59:15 11/27/07) You need to return that 16GPM pump and buy a 10 or 11gpm pump. Then you will have enough pressure.

Not entirely true: Pumps are rated for a certain GPM at a given pressure. For instance - Prince PTO pumps are, for the most part, rated at 2500 PSI whether they are capable of 7.1, 11.4 17.1, or 21 GPM. If you don't have enough HP to deliver the rated GPM at the rated PSI then you will see a pressure drop as well as a reduction in GPM. If the GPM is reduced then the same HP will give the rated PSI third party image

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El Toro

12-03-2007 12:36:19




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 Re: Increasing hydraulic pressure in reply to mj, 11-30-2007 15:06:27  
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I used a pump from Northern Hydraulics rated at 10gpm and a 10 hp engine from a Sears tracror and I never had to run the engine much over 1/3 throttle and it would split locust and oak wood so big I could hardly roll on the splitter. Once I had installed the 4 bolts in the pump it would downshift to the second stage. The governor would open up on the engine at times. I copied my splitter from one that I rented that had a 5 hp engine and it ran at 3600 rpm's all the time.

It would split anything you had too. I bought my control valve from the same company too with the automatic return detent. Hal

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El Toro

11-30-2007 03:46:57




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 Re: Increasing hydraulic pressure in reply to Rayy, 11-26-2007 13:16:00  
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Did you get the splitter to split your wood? Hal



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guido

11-28-2007 15:57:07




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 Re: Increasing hydraulic pressure in reply to Rayy, 11-26-2007 13:16:00  
Hey Rayy

Buy a control valve with the auto return detent valve.
The one I bought has a pressure adjusting screw for the pressure side, and one for the return side. When I bought it awhile back was $60.00
You will need a gauge to set your pressures, the pump specs should tell you the max you can go to.
Smaller pump would give you less volume, so it will take longer to complete a cycle.Your system has to have the capacity for the pressure.
Guido.

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El Toro

11-27-2007 07:59:15




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 Re: Increasing hydraulic pressure in reply to Rayy, 11-26-2007 13:16:00  
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You need to return that 16GPM pump and buy a 10 or 11gpm pump. Then you will have enough pressure.

I used a 10 or 11 gpm pump from Northern Tools similar to to one here marked with an X. It was known as Northern Hydraulics when I bought mine.
Don't adjust the pressure you will void your warranty. These are factory set and don't need any adjustment. Buy their control valve with the automatic retracting detent and you will have a splitter that split anything or will shear it when the second stage kicks in. Hal

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budn

11-26-2007 14:45:01




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 Re: Increasing hydraulic pressure in reply to Rayy, 11-26-2007 13:16:00  
I agree with Bob. Check pressures. You might have oil bypassing in the spool valve or cylinder.



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Bob

11-26-2007 14:15:39




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 Re: Increasing hydraulic pressure in reply to Rayy, 11-26-2007 13:16:00  
It would be a good idea to check the pressure with a hydraulic pressure gauge, and see what the pressure is now, before you try to set it up, vs. what the max ratings for the pump and cylinder are.



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