Hole Saws

I need a set that DOES NOT drive the saw off the center drill, but off the arbor.

I would MUCH PREFER a set where the )#(W$Q* center drill doesn't come adrift at the least provocation.

(Can you tell I've had my fill of cheap hole saw kits?)

I'm willing to pay for what I get, but I ain't exactly possessed of unlimited funds either.

3/4 to 3" or 4" would cover it.

Suggestions?

I would like to point out that you do not need to buy their expensive piolt bits. Just drill a 1/4 inch hole with any drill bit. Then you use a chunk of 1/4" rod inside your hole saw. This is pretty important when using the bigger hole saws in a portable hand held unit. NE IA Dave

The shorest thread I've ever posted....LOL

Lenox... McMaster Carr

Best bang for the buck!

Now you did it... you made me think for a minute.

Get a cheap dial indicator with mag base and true up your quill on the drill press. I did mine last year for a .002 runout and it's still hanging in there. I was impressed for such a cheap press. Makes the holes more round and cuts faster.

If you don't want to use a center bore guide, then consider using a 3 position outside shoe type on the holesaw for keeping the bore running true. Would be the same as a lathe steady rest set up ?

T_Bone

I've drilled thin stainless with it, as well as cast iron, aluminum .. oh.. and wood too!

Just intermittant use though.. not production work.. not sure how they would hold up if used alot.. etc.

Soundguy

Personally, I would buy a single hole saw for size you need to use right now and not go with a set. But that's me, go with what you want to do.

Arbors or mandrels that have "spanner nibs" are the best. This translates torque out farther onto the saw body not relying on the center male thread of some other arbor configurations.

Most hole saws of the bi-metal type will do well in aluminum and mild steel. All the SS stuff I've tried to do has been problematic. The trouble with hole-sawing or "trepanning" is that it's tough to find a drill press or motor that turns slow enough. This is especially critical when doing stainless. I've been told that a 3" hole saw should be run at 110 RPM. Kind of hard to find something that will turn a saw that slow.

I can tell you that I cut 10 1-1/2" holes in 1/2" thick angle with ONE hole saw. I was able to get the press down to 240 RPM I think, and the work was chucked-up very solidly eliminating work-piece chatter. THAT is critical but not always possible of course. Lots of cutting fluid to keep things cool, too.