Amperage reduction for using 10 amp max meter

Can I reduce the reading of the amps on the meter?
I know that I can multiply the amperage by coiling the wire then muliplying the reading by the number of turns.
But can I reduce the true amperage reading with some trick using resistors or something like that?

Thanks

Coiling wire only works when you make multiple turns through an inductive (clamp-on type) AC meter, and then only to increase the meter sensitivity, not to decrease it. Doesn't work on DC.

Easy solution, go spent $10 on an aftermarket replacement ammeter (or temporarily steal one out of one of your tractors!!) A lot cheaper than a good multimeter and plenty accurate enough for what you're trying to do.

Keith

Like I said, it works in theory, but it's not that simple to do. I have a Fluke clip on DC amp probe. If you know anybody who does electrical test work, maybe they have one they would let you borrow for of couple hours.

This would not be a Chrysler product by chance? I have a '99 Plymouth Breeze (Cirrus/Stratus body) and I had three fan resistors fail. They are air cooled by the air off the blower. Low speed is very slow, doesn't move enough air to cool the resistor, especially on startup if you happen to leave the blower switch on the lowest speed. There is a temp fuse in the resistor pack. If the resistors get too hot, the fuse blows, and you have to replace the resistor. I've never seen a blower resistor with such a temp fuse before. When I went to the Chrysler dealer to get one, the parts guy barely left the counter, he turned and reached thru the curtain and grabbed one off the shelf, very convenient, I suppose they sell lots of them. I did two things. (1) I absolutely never, ever use the lowest blower speed any longer, but the third one blew after I forgot and did use it, and left it on when I went to start the car, now, (2)I NEVER use low speed. I also wrapped a solid strand of 12 gauge bare wire around the stems of the burned out temp fuse and soldered it, it works with no temp fuse protection now, been running fine for a couple of years now.

In low speed, all three of the individual resistors are in series, and generating heat at a time when there is little or no air moving over them to cool them, thus blowing the temp fuse. As you increase speeds, the switch takes resistors out of the circuit, two of them for second speed, one of them for third speed, and of course, none of the resistors are used on high speed, all are out of the circuit.

Naysayers will say I'm going to burn my car up, but I say its a case of either bad engineering (a fuse with too low a temp or a blower that is too slow), or over engineering (a fuse that isn't needed), and frankly, there are millions of cars out there with blower resistors without protective temp fuses, it simply isn't needed, just a way to make $20 every so often off the unsuspecting car owner. I'm the ONLY person that ever drives or uses this car....

Charles

You might want to google that term.

It's POSSIBLE to make one, but you would need and accurate meter to verify it's calibration, anyhow.

MOST LIKELY you have poor connections in the connector body that plugs onto the resistor, making it overheat OR a bad motor that won't start on low speed, and sits there drawing current, while at the same time, failing to blow cooling air over the resistors (which are MOST LIKELY located in the airstream of the fan).

When the fan is on "HIGH", the resistors are switched out of the circuit, so they won't be exposed to high current, EVEN IF the motor is drawing excessive current on "HIGH speed", so the motor's current draw on "HIGH" (which you are unable to measure) is NOT what's burning out the resistors..

Do you have a functioning Ammeter from an old tractor laying around? You could use that to get an idea of what the fan motor is drawing.

Thanks

Soundguy