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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

one more question for xrodgerx

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icantfindanamethatworks

10-17-2007 19:48:27




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Okay, i wound up buying the rol-air. 6.5 horse 13.1@100 psi. Real nice, only quirk i dont like yet is the unloader system. It doesnt unload quite enough to make the motor start all that easy, you have to either have the tank empty, or open the drain on the after cooler which it then starts fine. Okay now my queastion oil. The book says straight weight NON DETERGENT, what is the big deal about nos detergent? The old one i used 30 weight rotella-t oil. What do you suggest? I was wondering about 10-30 mobil one synthetic? whatcha think? Then i could go longer change intervals, maybe up to a year.. So whatcha think? would 10-30 mobil-1 synthetic be a good choice for the pump? And if i run synthetic with medium useage, proably only 4 or 5 hours most months, how long could i go between changes?

Later!! chris

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XRogerX

10-17-2007 20:29:50




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 Re: one more question for xrodgerx in reply to icantfindanamethatworks, 10-17-2007 19:48:27  
Non-detergent oils don't gum up the valves like detergent oils do. Don't change to a synthetic until the unit is thoroughly broken in or you will have an oil pumper which will require disassembly, a cylinder hone and possibly new rings. When the first oil change is due, you should be good to go. Any decent synthetic should work well, and give superior cold and hot weather performance. For the amount of oil this unit is going to use, I don't think yearly oil changes is going to save you much money. I'd rather change it out every couple of months to get rid of any accumulated moisture in the oil, especially if you are only putting a few hours of use a month on it. Many people use Mobil 1 with great success. I have no personal experience using it, but I don't see why it wouldn't give good service, but ONLY after the unit is fully broken in. I gave up agonizing about oil brands and types a long time ago.

My conclusion: Any oil is always better than no oil.

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icantfindanamethatworks

10-17-2007 21:14:23




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 Re: one more question for xrodgerx in reply to XRogerX, 10-17-2007 20:29:50  
so how do you know when it is fully broken in? I planned to change it out in a month for the first change, then play by ear for the following changes. Where i bought it sells a non detergent oil but i think i was like almost four dollars a quart. Wal-mart has a cheap off brand 30 weight non-detergent, I dont much like off brand wal-mart oil, but would that be a good choice for the first change? Then go to synthetic later? Or should i hunt down a higher quality non detergent? Basically does it matter if it is a cheap off brand or a higher quality? Whats your take?

later!! chris

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XRogerX

10-18-2007 19:44:19




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 Re: one more question for xrodgerx in reply to icantfindanamethatworks, 10-17-2007 21:14:23  
That should be enough use to break in the rings.You don't need $4 a quart oil. WalMart, or most any hardware store should stock compressor oil. That will do you fine. Don't think you need some off-off brand oil that you have to drive 10 miles out into the country to buy off the back off a pickup truck from the only dealer for 100 miles. Most people who "swear" by any type of oil have little or no evidence that it has protected anything any better than any other oil would have. I find this especially grating when talking with other motorcyclists. You'd think proper oils have only been invented within the last 5 years, and they are the only ones smart enough to have found the one true oil, and will bore anyone within earshot with tales of the "great" results using their Seal Snot 100 oil, pressed from the dead baby Narwhal whales. I annoy them by buying the cheapest 15W40 no-name diesel oil I can find at Canadian Tire. It has worked fine for 15 years in all the bikes I have owned. There's probably better oil available, but what it might offer, I don't need.

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