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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

O/T sandpoint

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mph

09-29-2007 15:23:20




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Need info on how to put in a sandpoint. I have found very little on the net. May be their is some one here that can help.Their is a hand dug well [not mine] less than 500 yds. from me at about 25 ft. deep. Live along a river less than 200 yds. from my front door. Thanks much for any help.




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Jeff NwOh

09-30-2007 13:20:01




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 Re: O/T sandpoint in reply to mph, 09-29-2007 15:23:20  
Easiest way to put in a sand point is to wash it in. If you have access to a trash pump and water it sure beats the heck out of pounding one in(takes about 30 seconds once your set up). Get a 20' section of 2" pvc, cut some small v notches on the bottom, attach the hose from your trash pump to the top. You need to make this removable so you have a straight shot down this pipe. I use a threaded coupler attached to a 180 hooked to the hose(prevents kinking when you stand the pipe up). Usually takes 50 gals or so to wash 20' or so in sand. Need 2 guys on the pipe, stand it up(with a stepladder if necessary) and have someone fire up the pump. Keep pressure down letting the sand and water wash back up. Twist & turn if you get to a tough spot. Cant stop and start, if you run out of water you will have to start over. When you get it as far as you can go take the top off the 2" pipe. Attach enough pvc to a 1 1/4" PLASTIC point to get it above ground or into your pit and drop it down inside the 2" pipe. Pull the 2" out of the ground and your good to go. We gave up on steel points long ago. They eventually get plugged up from the minerals in the water here. Plus plastic points only cost about $10. Dad has plastic ones that have been in for 13 or 14 years that still work great. Hope this helps.

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bob r

09-30-2007 12:23:12




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 Re: O/T sandpoint in reply to mph, 09-29-2007 15:23:20  
Don,t stop if you are in blue clay you can tell as it will drive hard,the clay will suck against point and plug it. I know becauseof first time I did this. live next to a river and I have a pit 8ft deep and then I drive point and 25 ft of pipe to get in sand One length will set me in clay good luck



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mph

09-29-2007 19:34:58




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 Re: O/T sandpoint in reply to mph, 09-29-2007 15:23:20  
That much I kinda know its after that Iam unsure about like what is used in side the drive pipe to I think some kind of a pump and should a person use a holding tank and then plum from their to where you want the water?



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TimV

09-30-2007 04:42:07




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 Re: O/T sandpoint in reply to mph, 09-29-2007 19:34:58  
mph: sorry--wasn't sure what you were looking for, so I started with the basics. The typical pump installation goes something like this: once you hit water, you dig down 3-6 feet depending on your local frost line. You then "T" the line, run the main water line off the side of the "T", and run another piece of pipe above grade to mark the spot of the point off the third side of the "T", then cap that off. In a typical point installation, the pump, pressure tank, etc. are located inside or under the house. A point is strictly a low-head operation--if you have to pull the water up very far, a point isn't going to do the trick for you. I suppose you could also build a pumphouse over the point and put the pump out there, but here in NY that's typically not a viable option due to the cold winters.

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TimV

09-29-2007 15:37:19




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 Re: O/T sandpoint in reply to mph, 09-29-2007 15:23:20  
Pretty simple. Pick a spot, attach 3 feet or so of pipe to your point. Put a driving coupler (a heavy coupler to withstand the pounding and not bang up the threads) on the pipe. Use a point pounder (a heavy section of thick-walled pipe closed at one end with handles to lift on) to drive the point and pipe into the ground. Various power-assist methods will also suggest themselves depending on what you've got available. When the pipe/point combo is down too far for the pounder to work, unscrew the driving coupler, attach another length of pipe (longer this time as you don't have the point to deal with) to the first, reattach the driving coupler to the new section and repeat until you strike water. You can tell if you have water by dropping a nut tied to a string down the pipe and listening for a splash. Depth of the water can be seen on the string. If you're in fine sand, use a "sand point" which will have a finer mesh screen to minimize clogging and silting of the point.

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