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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

bolt grades

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oj

08-30-2007 17:06:04




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Ok, i hope this isn't seen as a stupid question; I've been breaking some of the bolts on my swather header lately, not that that is anything new, but I'm getting frustrated, one of the bolts is a grade 5 which is easy enough to swap for a grade 8, but the other is already a grade 8 (from the factory), is there anything stronger out there? I've never heard of anything but that doesn't mean much. My only other option is to do major modifications to the header to allow me to use a larger diameter bolt, incidentally the grade 8 is 1/2 inch diameter, and the grade 5 is 5/8 diameter, and it's on the header lift mechanism of a Heston 8100 windrower tractor. Any help would be great, thank all, oj in mb

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135 Fan

09-01-2007 00:55:09




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to oj, 08-30-2007 17:06:04  
I have also heard Cat are very good bolts but 12 point (grade 12) aren't that uncommon. Bowman distribution has them as well as most bolt supply houses. If it would work you could try to match up a track pad bolt from a crawler tractor. They are extremely tough. Dave



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GeneMO

08-31-2007 11:01:05




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to oj, 08-30-2007 17:06:04  
I agree with soundguy, if I really want a good bolt I go to the CAT dealer.


Gene



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Vern-MI

08-31-2007 03:53:19




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to oj, 08-30-2007 17:06:04  
If there is room for the head try socket head cap screws.



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soundguy

08-30-2007 22:16:22




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to oj, 08-30-2007 17:06:04  
If you have a cat dealer nearby.. hecarries gr10 bolts.. etc..

Soundguy



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Jim NW Mich

08-30-2007 19:17:01




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to oj, 08-30-2007 17:06:04  
If these bolts are shearing off, are they shearing in the shoulder of the bolt where you have full diameter of steel, or in the threads? Our snowblower broke many shear bolts when my Father-in-law would use a standard bolt instead of the manufacturer's shear bolt because the threads were in the shear plane and the root diameter of the threads was not strong enough. The solution was to purchase the specialized shear bolt with a much shorter length of threads (and a longer shoulder) or to use a longer bolt. In my case I then had to cut off part of the thread on the longer bolt to clear nearby obstacles. If the problem is too much play in the fit-up of the parts - don't blame the bolts - you will probably need to fix that situation to get any satisfaction. Bolted connections are usually intended to provide shear strength or tension. When the bolt is expected to bend to make up for a worn and sloppy connection it will usually fail quite quickly. Hope this helps.

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Bison

08-30-2007 19:27:27




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to Jim NW Mich, 08-30-2007 19:17:01  
I hadden'd tought of that ,you are right.
i usually in that situation take a bolt with the shank long enough to pass trough all the parts to be connected, with the tread starting outside of that.much stronger that way.



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Bison

08-30-2007 18:59:11




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to oj, 08-30-2007 17:06:04  
There is A grade 12 avalable,but is not to common. I usually pick them from the ground at my local scrapyard,most are never used.
a fastener supplier might have them.Or maybe a cat dealer,you can tell by the head, it has i think 9 lines versus 6 for grade 8
Another thing you could do is drill to a bigger diameter, 1/16 to 1/8 bigger will give twice the strengt.
But as have been pointed out already, take a good look at the cause first.

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wisbaker

08-30-2007 18:36:40




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to oj, 08-30-2007 17:06:04  
I don't know where you live but if you have a Fastenal branch near by they can probably get you someting "better" than a grade 8, but I agree with the previous post, there is a reason why it is doing this and when you make the bolts stronger you are nominating a new weak link and you probaly won't like it when you find out what it is. Might it be the things you are sticking your bolts through are worn? Do they have bushings in them?

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nballen

08-30-2007 17:30:21




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to oj, 08-30-2007 17:06:04  
oj,

I don't know your particular model, but I suspect there is something causing the bolts to break. Rather than making the (current) weak point stronger and then finding the next weakest point (likely MUCH more expensive), you might want to find the cause of the problem.

When are the bolts breaking? Is it consistent? What are the cutting conditions? Is something worn? Have you replaced any components? Is everything aligned properly?

Post back, and someone here will likely be able to answer more intelligently than I can.

Nathaniel

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oj

08-30-2007 17:46:29




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to nballen, 08-30-2007 17:30:21  
Nathaniel,
Thanks for the reply, the problem bolts always brake in the same place, the larger bolt, where it passes through from one bushing to another bushing, and the smaller one where it passes through a chain link, both points always have a little play in them, i can't tighten them anymore, and when you examine the old sheared bolts there is always signs of wear on the bolts, so I'm thinking that is the start of the problem. The Heston dealer thinks that I've got too much tension on the chains, but I'm only half along the threaded adjuster, so the designers should have thought of that!

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buickanddeere

08-30-2007 17:56:12




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to oj, 08-30-2007 17:46:29  
Too tight may prevent a little flex & give = snap. Try a different bolt supplier. The market is full of off shore counterfeit fasteners.



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nballen

08-30-2007 17:32:28




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 Re: bolt grades in reply to nballen, 08-30-2007 17:30:21  
I forgot...
If you post this on "Implement Alley" - might get better results there.

Nathaniel



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