Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

OT MAPLE HARD WOOD FLOORS

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
lenray

08-24-2007 08:10:01




Report to Moderator

My wife wants to have here real maple floors have that high glossy shine.
Floors have been in for 10 years and didn't have the high shiny finish when they were installed.
What do we need to do????
Thanks




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Gus

08-25-2007 03:45:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT MAPLE HARD WOOD FLOORS in reply to lenray, 08-24-2007 08:10:01  
Check with the pro"s in your area. Get referals from friends. Good luck
http://gustafsonwoodfloors.com/index.htm



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
NTP

08-24-2007 20:17:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT MAPLE HARD WOOD FLOORS in reply to lenray, 08-24-2007 08:10:01  
You may want to have your wife talk to floor refinishing people about the high gloss foor finish. Most people don't want the high gloss, as it will show every little scratch and after a time will show the traffic areas much more distinctly than a satin finish. We recently had our hardwood kitchen floor done by professionals. The new sanding equipment is almost dust free. They stained it and put on two finish coats (paid extra for a harder finish because of the dogs)and a day later we were able to put the furniture back into the kitchen. We had to use care for the first week when moving the chairs, but it looks great. They made it look easy, but then they were experienced. Some years ago I refinished 3 bedroom oak floors. My memory is still good and that is why I hired the professionals this time.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
MarkB_MI

08-24-2007 19:52:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT MAPLE HARD WOOD FLOORS in reply to lenray, 08-24-2007 08:10:01  
If the original finish is in good shape, I would try not to remove it. Just sand it enough to get it to a nice, even, matte finish so the new varnish will stick to it. You can fill any gouges that don't sand out.

As far as floor sanders go, the orbital sanders that Home Depot rents are real easy for an amateur to use. These sanders have four orbital disks and use hook-and-loop sanding disks. If you're just doing light sanding, I imagine that a vibratory sander with a screen-type sandpaper would be a better choice. If it's a small floor and you're just roughing up the finish, you can get by even with a hand sander.

You need to get all the dust off the floor after you sand. Vacuum, then wipe it down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits.

Note that there are both water-based and oil-based finishes. I've only used oil finishes, but I'm told that the water-based finishes are trickier to apply.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
J.C.in AZ.

08-24-2007 14:55:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT MAPLE HARD WOOD FLOORS in reply to lenray, 08-24-2007 08:10:01  
Leave it to the Profesionals to Sand and Refinish.. Insist on at least two coats or more of hard surface Polyurethane Finish[probably High Sheen] and let it cure a good week before Treading upon it. Keep Furniture off at least a Month and ==Never ever== "slide" any thing upon it.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Stan in Oly, WA

08-24-2007 14:25:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT MAPLE HARD WOOD FLOORS in reply to lenray, 08-24-2007 08:10:01  
Hi lenray,

The way Billy described refinishing floors is the way I've done it the most. The problems he talked about are exactly what you will run into, except they're a lot worse when your're doing it because it's hard, heavy work and you get to hating anything that means you'll have to do more of it. Something I hate to tell you, but you should know, is that it's not likely that you'll do a first class job on your first floor. There's too much to learn from your mistakes. Ideally you'd do two or three other floors for practice before you did your own floor. Of course, you'd have to be crazy to do that.

The last floor I put down and finished was about 15 years ago. It was red maple and it needed a lot of finishing. I rented a random orbital floor sander which I thought was a huge improvement from the old drum sander and circular edging sander. The r/o sander has a square pad and uses abrasive screens (my memory of this is not completely clear.) The sanding screens get progressively finer, just like the belts for a drum sander do. The straight edges and the r/o action let you get right up to walls, so you don't have to use an edging sander. It's still hard work, but you can get it right, or pretty close to right, the first time.

One other suggestion I have is that you investigate commercial quality wax or acrylic finishes and rent a heavy duty buffer. You might be able to achieve the high gloss finish your wife wants with only a small fraction of the expense and effort of totally refinishing the floors.

All the best, Stan

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Billy NY

08-24-2007 14:44:46




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT MAPLE HARD WOOD FLOORS in reply to Stan in Oly, WA, 08-24-2007 14:25:47  
Hard to know what theirs looks like, but it sure would be a lot less work to clean, buff and or apply some sort of product to bring out a shine on the existing finish, the other route is a royal pain, move furniture back and forth, sanding process, dust, clean up, the fumes, and care needed while replacing your furniture, 1 area at a time if occupied, many jobs we did was when the place was empty. Sometimes it's the only way to bring the floor back to a new looking condition. I can remember a few jobs where the old floor were painted, and not hardood, 6" wide T&G hemlock or douglas fir, started with #8 open coat, had to be real careful not to ruin the floor, real soft.

I have not seen my old friends from those days all that often, but heard they were still at it.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Billy NY

08-24-2007 11:45:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT MAPLE HARD WOOD FLOORS in reply to lenray, 08-24-2007 08:10:01  
Sounds like you want to re-do your existing floors?

I used to do this work while in high school, good friends dad 2nd job aside from the railroad was this business, it's a lot of work to do right if you need to remove the existing finish.


I may be off on this one, but when we would re-finish floors, it would require sanding it down with the appropriate abrasive, using lots of care with all the equipment, big drum sander,(that thing was a real pain to lug up stairs!) edger and under the radiator sanders. The existing finish determined the size grit or abrasive paper by number to remove it, once off, we then kept sanding changing progressively to finer abrasive on each pass back, last pass was the finest abrasive. One thing, you have to be thorough and use a lot of care, the big drum sander must keep moving, problem is, poor workmanship will show when you re-apply the finish, sanding marks are what you don't want, when they brought out the circular buffer, one grain of grit under the paper can leave a lot of marks. We cleaned an vacuumed thoroughly. Corners, stair treads, under radiators and other areas are a pain to terminate cleanly, whereas you can't get to places that the old finish will show.

Finishing process was after the last pass on fine sanding, we would vacuum thoroughly, apply the 1st coat of clear polyurethane, then buff with a fine abrasive, vacuum again, 2nd coat, repeat, 3rd coat, repeat if necessary, this how we did a finish with a high lustre. I've seen floors done where you could see way too many sanding marks, my friends dad learned from his dad, they had a good rep for quality work, so I thought what I learned was good experience.


Note: the fumes from that polyurethane were noxious, you won't want to be home while that is drying, nice to do in good weather, being able to leave the windows open.


Not sure how technology has changed on materials and methods, it seems like quite a bit of work, but when done, sure looks great.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
lenray

08-26-2007 13:13:12




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT MAPLE HARD WOOD FLOORS in reply to Billy NY, 08-24-2007 11:45:49  
Thanks fellas for taking the time to share your knowledge with us.
Printed off your statements for the wifew to look at.
Take care
len



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy