I've owned two MIG machines and two stick machines and now have a multi-process (MIG/stick/TIG), and a portable stick machine (Miller Maxxstar 140 - weighs 10 pounds). The 110 volt MIG machines can weld 1/2-inch metal - BUT the joints have to be prepared correctly (beveled) and the metal must be clean. You will have to use two passes to weld 1/2 inch. Bigger machines will weld in one pass BUT you have to match the wire size to the metal thickness. With .035 wire, the max voltage you can output is about 19 volts and around 225 amps. This will weld 1/2-inch in one pass. If you want to weld thicker metal the wire has to get larger (.045, .0625) OR you have to run multiple passes. If you go to larger wire, you have to change the MIG gun liner and tips. While not difficult or really expensive it is somewhat time consuming (like 20 minutes start to finish). What's so neat about MIG? It makes poor weldors look good, and good weldors look great. It lays down neat beads that need very little cleaning afterwords. You can get flux cored wire for a MIG so that you don't need shielding gas. Beads are still neat but, of course, you have to clean the slag off. If you want to weld outdoors with a MIG you need to use flux cored wire. If you try and weld outdoors using plain steel wire and shielding gas, the welds usually come out poorly because the slightest breeze will disturb the gas and disrupt the shield. Same thing happens in the shop if you turn that nice cooling fan on...(now how did I know that?) On the higher end models, you can get auxillary push/pull guns and weld aluminum and stainless (with the right shielding gasses). While you can weld without the push/pull gun, you will have to change the standard gun's liner if you've been using steel wire to avoid contamination of the weld through the aluminum or stainless wire picking up carbon steel from the liner after you put steel wire through it. MIGS weld thin metal (sheet metal) better than anything except TIG. While TIGS are prettier, MIGS are sure faster. MIGS are also a lot like TIGS in that the heat zone is much smaller than a stick welder, so you will often get less material distortion. Why use a stick welder? Even the inexpensive ones will weld fairly thick steel. You can weld aluminum and stainless with a stick welder (not as neatly as with a MIG, and certainly not as nicely as TIG - but it works). I have the little Miller Maxxstar because it is portable, will run from 120 or 220 and fits in a small carrying case (17 long x 10 wide x 8 deep) with cables and several different plug adapters. It's about the size of kid's lunchbox and just kicks butt for quick portable welding. In a pinch, I could make it do lift TIG with a small bottle of argon and a $100 torch with a valve. Weld on brother...
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