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As always old is right on the money in my opinion. Theres got to be a current draw (load or short) to cause the sparks. However, I believe there may be some types of solid state alternator or voltage regulators that might draw an initial temporary current surge just when first connected but that would stop shortly thereafter buttttt ttt Im NOT sure on what types of equipment that may or may not be so, sorry. The true and meaningful test is whether or not any current draw continues which will obviously discharge the battery. As old mentioned make sure theres no lights or switches or ignition etc left on which is the cause of the current draw. If you had a sensitive enough (current draw may be very slight) clamp on type of ammeter it OR A GOOD WORKING AMMEETR can be used to verify if theres continuing current flow after the connection is made. Does it have an ammeter?? What does it show sitting with battery removed versus once its connected?? Its possible to use a test lamp or a voltmeter to try n trace down where a short may be. If you remove the hot ungrounded battery cable and place one test lamp lead to the bare battery post and the other to any source of a ground (even if low resistive) the lamp will glow indicating theres a short somewhere..... ... if one lead is on the bare battery post and the other to the removed hot battery cable end and it lights up, that says theres a short or a load (lights or ignition etc ON) somewhere AND IF IT FLASHES JUST TEMPORARILY BUT THEN GOES OFF, THAT MAY JUST BE AN ALTERNATOR OR VOLTAGE REGULATOR INITIALLY SETTING UP AS MENTIONED ABOVE AND ALL IS OKAY (but I wouldnt bet too much on that lol),,,,, ,, BOTTOM LINE if a test lamp from the bare battery post to the removed hot battery cable end glows constantly (and ignition and lights are OFF), THERES A SHORT which causes the sparking you observed and will discharge the battery. Check the wiring and alternator and any external voltage regulator (have a shop test it) etc first John T
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