|
Hi Mark, I want to add a couple of comments to what glennster said about contact cement (which would have been my choice. too.) The regular stuff uses lacquer thinner or something like it as a solvent. It's very potent and it's explosive once the air reaches a certain saturation level. But I wouldn't even bother to try the low volatility variety. The way contact cement fails is to leave voids where the surface material will move up and down. On an extremely porous surface such as wood, plywood, or particle board it takes at least two coats of contact cement to achieve the 100% grab that you want. The metal will only need a single coat since there's nowhere for the cement to soak into. Even in extremely hot, dry locations you have a lot of time (as in many hours) to work with it. Rushing the job, in fact, is the more common problem. Tacky with contact cement means that you can touch it without it sticking to your finger. It hardly needs to feel sticky. If you touch it with a finger that has some contact cement on it it will feel more than sticky. Individual slats from metal Levelor type window blinds make the best furring strips as long as you have enough of them that the surfaces can't touch until you start withdrawing them. If you put a slat on either surface and it won't slide easily, you haven't let the cement dry enough. All the best, Stan
| 
