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WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice

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railhead

05-11-2007 19:23:02




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I have a 1980 Chev 3/4 ton that has dual fuel tanks. I saved it from the crusher. I now have EVERYTHING working on it but the fuel tank switch over valve. I have a good switch. Should the vlave have 12V on it when on one side and 0V on it when on the other? No book on Earth (chilton, haynes etc) does NOT address the fuel switch in any way. I will put a manual switch over on it if I have to but I would like to get the electric one working. no mechanics still working around me remember the way they should work. THANKS

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BF8690

05-15-2007 11:57:46




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 Best way to improve your truck in reply to railhead, 05-11-2007 19:23:02  
Trade it in for a Ford. lol



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Leland

05-14-2007 19:53:52




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 Re: WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice in reply to railhead, 05-11-2007 19:23:02  
try www.chevytruckworld.com



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banjo

05-11-2007 22:32:59




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 Re: WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice in reply to railhead, 05-11-2007 19:23:02  
I have also had one side plug up in the valve and made you think the switch wasn't working. Not fun when your laying in a mud hole under the truck trying to get the valve unstopped.



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Allan In NE

05-11-2007 20:59:41




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 Re: WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice in reply to railhead, 05-11-2007 19:23:02  
I've worked on those dudes many times.

They used 2 kinds of switches and I can't remember the break point.

The older switch is just a "click-click" rocker type switch. Newer style is a "depressable" rocker type that you have to hold against spring pressure.

The switch and the solenoid (fuel valve) have to match.

Now the question, which type do you have? Does your switch "spring back" to center? OR, is it just a "click left tank/click right tank" switch?

Allan

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railhead

05-14-2007 03:13:24




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 Re: WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice in reply to Allan In NE, 05-11-2007 20:59:41  
Allan,
More developments....the only "hotwire" (pink)from the switch goes to a block at the fuse panel that has a place for a plug in for like a solenoid or something else, then a a wire that goes to ign. So, in other words, the only wire that goes to hot has a break in between and "something" plugs into it there, between the ign and the switch. Is the solenoid supposed to be in the electric switch over itself or is it under the dash? I could make a bridge wire and jump across this block and run straight 12v to the switch but that may burn/blow something out.WHY WHY did they make so many different configurations in so few years? The wire colors are different in a 81 I am stealing parts from and the 80 I am working on. the 81 has the "depress fully" switch so i think none of this stuff will help me unless I take EVERYthing from it and put on my 80.

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railhead

05-12-2007 05:41:48




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 Re: WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice in reply to Allan In NE, 05-11-2007 20:59:41  
Yes Allan, i have the click right or left type. It is not one that says "depress Fully" on it so I think your drawing is going to be just what I need. The wiring was routed on top of the exhaust and it is of course now a melted mess. (among other cut up messes).I will try it this way and let you know.



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railhead

05-14-2007 21:32:54




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 Re: WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice in reply to railhead, 05-12-2007 05:41:48  
I was looking for the word realy this AM but it would not jar out of my empty head. I have the NAPA guy in town looking for my realy now.



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Allan In NE

05-11-2007 21:40:33




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 Re: WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice in reply to Allan In NE, 05-11-2007 20:59:41  
I've re-read your description and it sounds like you have the old type.

That style "defaults" to the right tank. That is to say, the solenoid is spring loaded to allow fuel to flow from the right tank with no ignition, so yes. 0 volts pulls from the right tank and 12 volts pulls from the left.

On your switch, terminal #1 (which is in the center) is ignition feed (pink with a black tracer).
#2=to solenoid (light green)
#3=to left side sending unit (light blue)
#4=to fuel gauge (orange)
#5=to right side sending unit (dark blue)
#6=no connection

Allan

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CRUSADER

05-11-2007 19:34:47




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 Re: WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice in reply to railhead, 05-11-2007 19:23:02  
I'm sure there is someone on this forum that will give you the correct answer on how to get this to work. I too would like to know because back in the early '80s before I joined the service I worked in a few garages and was faced with this simular problem a few times. We usually installed a manual control valve for the dual tanks because the electrical one was always going out. Make sure the hoses and returns are connected correctly. If your switch is good, this could be causing the problem. Also the hoses have a tendency to go bad and or leak and the engine won't run properly and sometimes won't run. LOL, I changed out three fuel pumps in ten months on an a pickup once before I figured it out. Replaced all the fuel hoses and didn't have any problems with this anymore.

Good Luck with the pickup. I'd like to know how this comes out.

Jim

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KSTractor

05-11-2007 20:46:28




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 Re: WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice in reply to CRUSADER, 05-11-2007 19:34:47  
The operation of the switch is tricky you have to hold it as far as it will go, against the spring long enough for the motor in the valve to do the switching .When you let go of it I don't think there is any voltage to the valve. When you switch it back to the other tank the voltage will be on the the wire that was grounded before.



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TxAllisMan

05-12-2007 10:43:24




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 Re: WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice in reply to KSTractor, 05-11-2007 20:46:28  
Having owned many of these trucks heres something else to look at.

Where the wires go above the exhaust there known to get brital do to heat and break.

Check the ground that comes from the switch tank.

I finaly opened the wiring harness and used an omh meter with very long leadt to find the wires that were giving me the problems I was having.

I fixed all the trucks I owned



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dan hill

05-13-2007 04:56:09




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 Re: WAY OT, Need Old Chevy Mech advice in reply to TxAllisMan, 05-12-2007 10:43:24  
I drove a Diamond T truck that had a manual valve within reach of the driver.Worked fine, the valve was under the floor with a control rod that came up into the cab.Toss out the electric stuff..



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