Electrical gurus?

Say how bout one a them router speed controllers,they're sposed ta handle 20Amps?Or are we talking apples and oranges?

Gerald J.

You don't say if the object is to only control the heat or if you wish to reduce the current draw also while reducing the heat. A rheostat doesn't reduce the power used, it just uses a portion in the rheostat instead of in the heating coil.

The dimmer I use reduces the power used when turned down.

A thermostat (capable of handling 1500 watts) would also reduce the power used by turning off the heating coil when heat wasn't needed but depending on the intended use, it may be difficult to sense the temp properly.

John

I haven't repaired a dryer in years but you should have the componets on the used dryer where you got the element. Some of the dryers used snap t-stats for temperature control, some used variable resistors.

The 115v/1500w personal heaters can be bought new at Wally-World/Target for $20, or could have as there again I haven't bought one in years. Thease are really popular with the RV crowds they have tip over control with linier contolled heating.

Another good source for cheap 1500w heaters is lead casting pots for the reloaders.

Just thought I'd throw those into the fire since we don't know what your end results will be.

T_Bone

If you need continuous control, a variac is about the best bet. One of Soundguy's high power lamp dimmers should also work, but I suspect somthing like that would cost many $$$.

A diode in series is a good idea, but would only provide one heating value below the maximum. You'd need a diode capable of carrying the full rated current plus some margin, and good for at least 200 peak reverse volts. A diode rated for 15-20 amps continuous forward current and at least 200 volts would probably work. You may need to mount in on a heat sink, as it'll dissipate several watts itself.

The thermostat idea is cheap & easy if you want it to keep something at a constant temperature. In this case, though, you might be better off to simply buy a ready-made heater. Again, depends on what you intend to do with it.

Keith

Soundguy

here are a few choices for ya.

1 Run it wide open.. but on a thermostat setup like a small heater ( 1500w is common for those thermostats ).

2 Perhaps a wire feed motor speed trim variable resistor from a mig welder would do. they are a low ohm value, ceramic potted and look heavy duty... not sure how much cut you would get without looking at the actual resistance/impediance of whatever you use.

3 Get a multi position rotary switch and solder in a few fixxed hi-wattage ceramic power resistors.. say 3 of tem to make a hi / med / low. Up you you to use E=IR ( P=IE ) to decide what values of R you want for the hi / med / low... etc.

4 The variac xformer is a great idea. If you can find one cheaply you will be very lucky...

5 A lamp dimmer module meant for stage lighting. ( par can controller ).. you should be ably to find one in the 1500w range easilly.. as you can find lamps up to 1kw in many venues ).

6 Build a triac based controller ( lamp dimmer ) using off the shelf parts.. but rated for the load.

7 Build a Pulse width modulator and feed with full wave filtered DC. 1500w can be handled with a handfull of off the shelf mosfets.. irf 511 or irf z40, paralleled will do the trick... ( pwm is not my first choice since you are working with ac source... )

( now don't you wish you had taken HS electronics!! )

Good luck!!

Soundguy

While most controls are not infinitely variable, most have at least a low-med-high selection.

I know (most) burner elements are 220volt, but I --THINK-- the burner switch may do what you want. ..... Hopefully, someone will know for sure!

I have one running a heat lamp in my doghouse.

Let me know if you want either or both.

Aaron

If ya want 'em anyway, let me know.

Aaron