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Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long)

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cj3b_jeep

04-25-2007 05:27:24

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O.K, So I got this air compressor back together after lining the inside with POR 15. Put everything back the way it was and the unloading valve will not work. It does not let air into the tank, just leaks out the weep hole in the valve. Figure maybe it went bad from not having pressure behind it for a couple weeks. Tracked down an identical new valve, still does the same thing. Think maybe I put the 220 wires back on the motor backwards, switched them, motor sparks and shuts off the breaker. Now the motor does not work. I assume (and later confirmed w/ volt meter) that both wires I have are just two branches of 110, should it matter that they were switched around? What gives with the unloading valve, could the new one be bad? I did notice that the copper pipe going from the head to the valve seems kinf of long after the compression fitting.

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cj3b_jeep

04-27-2007 05:05:09

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to cj3b_jeep, 04-25-2007 05:27:24

So I spoke with an electrician the other night, friend of a freind. He said he did not know why the motor blew. We went over the wiring diagram and everything was fine. I was at TSC last night getting stuff for my loader and looked at the electirc motors. They have a 5 horse 3650 RPM 220 for either $144 or $167, there were two priced differently. Either way, it's probably cheaper to buy a new one than it is to rebuild the old one, although the Gould is probably better.

Still working on the Unloader valve issue, but I think it has to do with the compression fittings.

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Larry in tn

04-26-2007 02:12:36

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to cj3b_jeep, 04-25-2007 05:27:24

What kind of compressor do you have?

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cj3b_jeep

04-26-2007 04:43:21

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to Larry in tn, 04-26-2007 02:12:36

It's an old B&M, As division of Boyle Compressor

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XRogerX

04-25-2007 20:51:44

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to cj3b_jeep, 04-25-2007 05:27:24

I don't know if you have "unloader valve" and "check valve" confused, but if the line going into the check valve is too long after the ferrule, it might be pressing straight down on the teflon puck, sealing the discharge line, and causing the motor to immediately overload and trip out the breaker. Try trimming the line back a bit and see if your problems go away.

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cj3b_jeep

04-26-2007 04:46:30

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to XRogerX, 04-25-2007 20:51:44

I think this valve is both an unloader valve and the check valve built into one. It serves the function of filling the tank while not letting air escape, then when the compressor reaches it's max psi, it unloads the air line and compressor head. I'm thinking the same thing, that the line is too long after the compression fitting, pushing down on the valve and not letting it do it's job. But I'm afraid the motor might be toast. I hope I can take it somehwere and have it rescued.

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john cub owner

04-25-2007 19:51:02

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to cj3b_jeep, 04-25-2007 05:27:24

There is a check valve that allows air to flow into tank form compressor, but not out, so that when unloader valve opens, it doesn't drain the tank. Is it possible yours is stuck or that you sealed it with the POR15?

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Wild Bill

04-25-2007 07:23:24

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to cj3b_jeep, 04-25-2007 05:27:24

are you sure that it is a 220 motor? If it is a 110 and you shot it 220, it is probably toast now. What kind of plug is on it? Do you see any makings on the motor that might tell you the volt requirements? When you lined your tank did you clean out the hole that your pilot valve (unloader valve)supply line screws into? It may be that the POR covered the hole and air flow is restricted to the valve. not having pressure on it will not hurt it. You spoke about a kink in the pipe, that could cause to I suppose.

Now the unloader valve should be fed FROM the tank, but you say that it won't let air into the tank.

I can't say that I really helped you, I guess I am trying to get my head around your situation.

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cj3b_jeep

04-25-2007 07:42:55

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to Wild Bill, 04-25-2007 07:23:24

Yep, it's a 220 motor, says so right on the data plate, it's a Gould 4 HP, 230 volts. It worked before I took it apart. I actually plugged the hole in the tank where the unloader valve goes when I used the POR-15 on it...it's clear and unrestricted. The pipe is copper with compression fittings that slip onto it, then tighten down. Seems like there's a lot of pipe beyond the compression fitting.
The unloader vsalve only goes in one way, it has different sized threads on the top & bottom.

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Wild Bill

04-25-2007 09:26:02

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to cj3b_jeep, 04-25-2007 07:42:55

OK, so it is 220, well, where you have your wires shouldn't matter as long as you have both phases at different poles and the neutral in the right place, we will have to wait for John T or other more electrical minded folks for that part.

Back to the unloader valve:
If the kink is not your problem, then lets check the piping here, you should have:

1. A line from the tank to the unloader valve to a port that says IN, or INPUT, etc.

2. A pressure switch attached to the unloader valve that will cut the motor back.

3. A line leading from the unloader valve that goes to the compressor that will tell the compressor to chill out for a while.

Is that what you got? And do you know you have the lines and switch connected to the right ports on the unloader valve?

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Wild Bill

04-25-2007 09:37:28

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to Wild Bill, 04-25-2007 09:26:02

yeah, I said some wrong stuff there, I am thinking about a gas compressor that runs contiuously. here is what you should have:

1. Line from tank to "input" or "in" on uloader valve

2. pressure switch wired to motor attached to unloader valve.

Now, unloader valves are touchy when you go to start adjusting them, did you take the needle out of it?

If so you might just need to adjust the plug that holds the needle in the valve a little tighter so it takes more pressure to pop it.

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cj3b_jeep

04-25-2007 10:40:34

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to Wild Bill, 04-25-2007 09:37:28

Mine's the older style where the unloader valve is separate from the pressure sense valve, which is on the end of the tank. My smaller, newer compressor has a separate line from the unloader to the pressure valve.

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Wild Bill

04-25-2007 17:30:03

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Re: Air Compressor Ver. 3.0 (long) in reply to cj3b_jeep, 04-25-2007 10:40:34

I don"t know man, you have raised some vey puzzling questions, I would like to know some answers myself. :>)

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