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Preventing Barrel distortion welding Mech Tubing

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AndyF

04-05-2007 19:19:11




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I have a six in length of 1Inch ID Mild Steel X 1/2inch wall tubing that is going to be my barrel receiver for a kingpin. It's going to be a boom swivel for a backhoe I'm making.

The 1inch pin fits perfectly in it right now with not too much clearance. The barrel will be boxed in a 5/16in plate retainer on each side and welded in. There will be a 6inch welding seam running up each side of the barrel, as well as 2, 6inch seams seams up the front of the barrel. I will surely make several passes of each seam as I only have 1/8-6011 rod and I'm not that good a welder.

Looking at the barrel from the top, the welds will be 90 degrees from each other.

Is there a way to prevent distortion of the pin hole, or is this a serious concern? Is there a welding putty that I can fill the hole with that would help prevent this? Is there a chance I need to rebore the hole after welding?

Thanks for the help.

AndyF

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benny2

04-06-2007 08:38:39




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 What I would do is Re:Preventing Barrel distortion in reply to AndyF, 04-05-2007 19:19:11  
I know it will add extra cost and work but
What I would do is have the tube bored a 1/4 in. For a 1/8 wall replaceable bushing insert. This should be either a lite drive or lite press fit. You can buy inserts at bearing supply or have them made. These inserts should be heat treated as the pin should. Pin should be made from heat treated 4140 or at least case hardened. Case hardening can be done at home with a product called Kasenit, this stuff is inexpensive. All of your pivot points should be made like this. Most good loaders have these at all the piviot pin spots. I would drill all pivots for external grease zerks.

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135 Fan

04-06-2007 11:57:21




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 Re: What I would do is Re:Preventing Barrel distor in reply to benny2, 04-06-2007 08:38:39  
Bushings would be good idea. You don't want a 4140 Chrome-Moly pin. On a small hoe like yours you might want to use a medium carbon or maybe just a grade 8 bolt. If the pin is harder than the bushing, the bushing wears out. If it's softer the pin wears out. It's easier to replace a pin. Replacable bushings make both replacable. Dave



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TomTX

04-06-2007 06:21:56




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 Re: Preventing Barrel distortion welding Mech Tubi in reply to AndyF, 04-05-2007 19:19:11  
I would use 7014 rod for that. If lie you said you are not a real good welder, then the 7014 is much easier to run a clean bead. Tom



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AndyF

04-06-2007 04:28:59




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 Re: Preventing Barrel distortion welding Mech Tubi in reply to AndyF, 04-05-2007 19:19:11  
Update:

Lab Metal's(TM)Heat Block insulating putty is used for that, but probably won't work in my case.

Andy



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135 Fan

04-05-2007 21:53:23




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 Re: Preventing Barrel distortion welding Mech Tubi in reply to AndyF, 04-05-2007 19:19:11  
You must be making a fairly small backhoe. As long as you don't weld the tube all at once and get it super hot, you should be ok. If the tube shrinks too much, you could clean it up with a flap wheel that fits in a drill. If you can't find one small enough you could make one. Take a piece of small round bar a little longer than the tube and cut a slot in the end with a hacksaw about 3/4 to an inch high. Then take a piece of emery cloth a few inches long and put it in the slot and wrap it around a few times with the grit on the outside. Put the round bar in a drill and hone the tube like a cylinder on an engine. It should clean it up nice if needed. You would be ahead to buy some 7018 rods because a backhoe puts a lot of stress on welds. If all you have is an AC buzz box buy some 7018 made especially for AC machines. They are easier to use. You don't want your project to break. You would need a few passes with 6011 as it doesn't build up that much. 7018 would be the best choice however. Hope this helps. Dave

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Steve Crum

04-05-2007 19:46:42




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 Re: Preventing Barrel distortion welding Mech Tubi in reply to AndyF, 04-05-2007 19:19:11  
Chances are pretty slim that you won't have distortion if you get any kind of good penetration of the welds. The best thing to do is get a good 1" reamer and ream the bore after the weld is cool. A 1" pin is a little small for the swivel point on a backhoe isn't it? I think the 2 on mine are at least 2".



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AndyF

04-06-2007 04:08:49




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 Re: Preventing Barrel distortion welding Mech Tubi in reply to Steve Crum, 04-05-2007 19:46:42  
Thanks for the tips guys.!

I have a 1 inch drill w/1/2in shank that has a 3inch flute, so I can use that with a pass on each end of the tube. The reamer is a good idea.

Yes the backhoe is small and it's going on a trailer w/13hp engine and 7gpm pump. Booms are 3in X 1/4 square tube, and bucket is 11 X 21in.

Your right about the size, I was concerned about that too. I searched around on the w3 and Cadplan hoes use 1inch and so are the other plans. I settled for a compromise and decided on 1inch high carbon. The piece I have is part from a car axle(differential to bearing). My guess is the bearing(mild) will oval out before the pin goes..... I hope. Andy

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TimV

04-06-2007 05:46:58




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 Re: Preventing Barrel distortion welding Mech Tubi in reply to AndyF, 04-06-2007 04:08:49  
Andy: Good advice already on the welding, but I think you'll find 1" is a bit on the small side for the main pivot pin. Even my little Trencherman has (going from memory) at least a 1 1/2" pin, and I've bent it a couple of times.



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