Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

water hydrant repair

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
SDE

03-31-2007 07:46:08




Report to Moderator

Classmate that I had not seen since school days called me to ask if I could fix her hydrant. I removed the handle and there was a 4" inch rod that had become unthreaded. I need to remove the hydrants top piece(head?) from the pipe. It has been on there for at least 20 years.

If I use two pipe wrenches with cheater bars, will it come unthreaded without breaking the pipe? Do they have a rubber bushing in them that would prevent a person from using heat? Should a person drill a couple of small holes in the upper pice to allow a penetrating oil to soak into the threads? I don't want to break anything that will require more extensive repairs,
Thank you Steve

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
SDE

04-03-2007 14:20:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: water hydrant repair in reply to SDE, 03-31-2007 07:46:08  
Got the job done. Used the hammers on it Monday with PB Blaster. Pulled real hard on two pipe wrenches today and it can loose. The top, short rod, was threaded properly. So I put it back together and tried to pull the handle up. Still will not move. I still think it may be frozen down around the 4 to 6 feet level.
Thank you everyone.
SDE



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Joe (Wa)

03-31-2007 14:41:51




Report to Moderator
 Re: water hydrant repair in reply to SDE, 03-31-2007 07:46:08  
I have a half dozen of these Merrill hydrants, most have 10-15 years in the ground. They come apart pretty easy, debris depends on the mineral content of the local water. Look at the product page for model if this is your brand.

Joe



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
RustyFarmall

03-31-2007 12:32:08




Report to Moderator
 Re: water hydrant repair in reply to SDE, 03-31-2007 07:46:08  
That rod is attached to the shut-off valve, which is buried about 3 to 4 feet below ground. Most likely the reason the hydrant is not working is because of the buried shut-off valve. You don't need any pipe wrenches until you have used a spade or a back-hoe first. Dig it up and put in a new hydrant.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
SDE

03-31-2007 13:14:34




Report to Moderator
 Re: water hydrant repair in reply to RustyFarmall, 03-31-2007 12:32:08  
I did manage to get the rod to thread back into the lower actuator rod, but I think it is cross thread, which is why I want to remove the head.
I am not comfortable leaving it that way.

Here in WI, I think she still has a problem with it being frozen. Her well froze,last Feb., just six feet away from the hydrant. A plumber thawed it out and she in happy to get someone (me) to work on the hydrant.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob

03-31-2007 13:03:14




Report to Moderator
 Re: water hydrant repair in reply to RustyFarmall, 03-31-2007 12:32:08  
Rusty...

All the hydrants I have ever worked with have valves that pull up with the rod for repair.

In other words; the valve "cartridge" from way down below pulls up with the actuating rod; once you have removed the hydrant's top.

You DON'T have to dig them up unless there is unusual damage to the underground part; making it's replacement necessary.

Speaking of depth; be glad you're not up North here I am and you have to go down six to eight feet to get below the frost line!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
RustyFarmall

03-31-2007 13:27:57




Report to Moderator
 Re: water hydrant repair in reply to Bob, 03-31-2007 13:03:14  
Yes, I know about replacing just the cartridge, but if you are dealing with hard water, the cartridge usually will not pull free of the housing, and even if it does, the housing is usually so full of crud that a new cartridge cannot be put back in.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob

03-31-2007 11:08:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: water hydrant repair in reply to SDE, 03-31-2007 07:46:08  
Hold a large hammer against one side of the casting and tap the opposite side with a smaller hammer. "Walk" the big mammer around the whole outside circumference of tha casting as you continue to tap the side opposite the heavy hammer. Tha SHOULD help loosen up the threads.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
cb in wisc

03-31-2007 10:21:29




Report to Moderator
 Re: water hydrant repair in reply to SDE, 03-31-2007 07:46:08  
Try the pipe wrenches first without cheaters. If that doesn't move it, then squirt some kind or penetrating oil at the threaded area, and then tap lighly with a hammer. All you want to do is set up some vibration and break loose the rust so that the oil can get in and work. You may have to do it a couple of times. Then try the pipe wrenches again. If that don't work then try some heat or the cheaters. That's what we do in the boiler plant where I work.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
SDE

03-31-2007 11:57:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: water hydrant repair in reply to cb in wisc, 03-31-2007 10:21:29  
Thank you Bob and cb. What you have suggested is what I thought I would need to do. I was going to put both pipe wrenches on it and have Karen use the hammer while I applied the pressure. Unfortunately we have different work schedules.
Thank you Steve



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
flying belgian

03-31-2007 08:46:34




Report to Moderator
 Re: water hydrant repair in reply to SDE, 03-31-2007 07:46:08  
Might as well try. It's know good the way it is. Worst case she will have to put in new hydraunt which is not that bad.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy