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setting barn poles.

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glennster

03-19-2007 07:55:25




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getting ready to put up storage shed. 12X24. have 6x6 creosoted pole barn poles. floor of shed will sit 4 ft off the ground due to occasional flooding. have gotten several differet oppinions. i have a 12" auger for post hole digger. plan on drilling 48" deep. thought about putting some 1-1/2 inch stone in hole, set pole, maybe use sona tube, then fill with concrete. should sona tube be up out of the ground a foot or so?? or any better ideas. shed will hold odds and ends, maybe also clubhouse for the kids. going to set poles every 6 ft.

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RegoR

03-21-2007 06:14:03




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
Hi Glennster;

I found this and thought you might like a look. I know nothing about it, just stumbled onto it.
Best of luck on your project. Let us know how it works out.

Roger



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neblinc

03-20-2007 05:42:09




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
When my building was built they augered a 24" hole and then put a round precast footing with a bracket on the post and filled with crushed limestone.
See link below and scroll over to the bottom right.

Randy



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NE IA Dave

03-20-2007 00:04:30




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
We usualy feel the cost of the tube can be replaced with concrete instead. Use the tube towards the top making a pier. Extra bracing is important however. We have replaced many wooden poles. If a wooden pole has no knots or cracks it will last pretty good in wet conditions. You and I have seldom if ever seen one. Those poles are soaked with treatment from the outside, usualy 1/3 the way in. When you get a crack after treatment you have purchased a sponge that never dries out. Pay attention next time a wind storm takes some pole buildings down. You know how the wind was so strong it snapped the poles off at the ground ---as the story goes. Go look closly at the poles and stick your pliers down in the center of them. They usualy resemble a egg shell, hard on the outside and soft on the inside. Many pole buildings over ten years old are just waiting for the right wind storm. The old creasote poles were long lasting, if they are never reused. The newer process is not so good, yet many buildings last a long time. Many poles are broken off at ground level by someone hitting them with a tractor or truck etc.

If you set poles in mud or water, you are asking for trouble. With dry ground year round they will last along time. If a pole building settles, it is no big deal to fix if you do it before it settles to much and twists the building. Many cookies settle a little because of loose soil under it from the digger, or a void under it when setting. It happens often.

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flying belgian

03-19-2007 17:26:55




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
When they built our pole shed 45 years ago they just dumped a bag of dry sacrete in bottom of each hole. No problems yet.



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mark

03-19-2007 13:01:08




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
No building is better/stronger than it's foundation. I built my pole garage building 20+ years ago and while it has worked out well enough...NEVER again will work my a$$ off erecting a building without a proper foundation.....a concrete footer and at least 3 courses of block. I paid my dues for my opinion and the money you scrimp on to bypass paying for or avoiding the time required to lay a proper foundation will come back to haunt you sooner or later. HOW? Posts will settle/sink over time. Pour a pad or a 'cookie' (as I did) and what you have are 12 inch squares of concrete supporting the entire weight of the structure divided by how many poles you have....12 poles...12 one foot pads bearing the weight.....as opposed to a linear foundation.

The given excuse is "all I want is a cheap building" OR "I just needed to get something up quick". Same thing I said. Well, quick or cheap or whatever ...it becomes a permanent structure on your place and you'll be living with it as long as you stay there or survive.

Keep all wooden structure away from the ground....not on it or in it...even if it is pumped full of arsenic. Your investment will last many times longer and prevent future headaches.

Now everybody pile on and tell me how super your pole buildings are and how granpappy built them in the 1940's. Would you build your house like that? Then why build anything this way? I did, and wish I never had.

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Billy NY

03-19-2007 15:42:10




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to mark, 03-19-2007 13:01:08  
It's a good point. Cutting corners is never good practice, if a building needs something a certain way, best to make sure your budget can afford it, especially for the foundation.

For a pole barn or smaller pole type structure, they are cost effective and easy to build, and can be more suceptible to problems beacuse the posts are below grade, especially if your soils rot posts and are unstable, then it makes no sense to build unless you can mitigate the problem. Not sure what happened on yours, and I can't exactly say how mine will perform, but within reason, it ought to be fine, based on what I have done and the soil conditions, and I could be wrong, time will tell. More worried about wind here, up on a hill, could uplift a roof more than anything else.

The question posed here brings up the familiar scenario about pole structures, if you can preserve the wood, you may be surprised at the longevity you can get from one, but if the ground is wet and the posts are not preserved well, it may not last as long. Look at utility poles, around here they can last 50 years, there are some here that old on the power line easment.

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mark

03-19-2007 19:59:25




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to Billy NY, 03-19-2007 15:42:10  
Billy,

What started as a pole barn, morphed into a garage. I got tired of laying on a dirt floor and not being able to heat the place. So, I poured a floor. Now, when the building was first erected...one side was lower than the other by maybe a foot. Being a 'barn' it didn't matter as I squared the posts at the top. But when the floor was to be poured, I had to add fill. Lots of dirt and then limestone rock. Then the floor was poured. A couple years later and saving some money up, I then studded the building, insulated and sheetrocked it. When I went to install the stud panels is when I discovered the building had settled in 2 or 3 places. The saving grace is I poured the floor 6 inches thick with 4500 psi concrete. The stud panels rest on the floor and tie into the walls and hopefully this will distribute the weight of the building onto the studs/floor and arrest any further settling. Otherwise, in years to come, the corners of the building will be sagging and will require jacking up.....NO GOOD! I was young and full of pi$$ and vinegar back when I built this structure and couldn't be convinced that an $800 foundation (in 1980 dollars) was worth the time and money. So now, a building worth $20,000 is held up by 6x6's and a prayer the stud walls help. I'm almost 50 years old and I suppose if the building lasts another 27 years....it won't matter much, so far as I am concerned. But, it could have lasted a hundred years...had a proper foundation been used.

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Billy NY

03-19-2007 20:51:16




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to mark, 03-19-2007 19:59:25  
The same thing could be done with this thing I decided to toss up, and the one corner is close to where the bank slopes steeply, so I'll see how it holds before considering any upgrades for finishing it off. The soil here is really stable, just a wee bit close to the bank at one corner and I've still got to bring the grade up there, but even if it were to settle, the way it will be topped off I can deal with it anytime later on without much trouble.

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Billy NY

03-19-2007 12:06:19




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
third party image

Posts set:

I carved this out and graded it off, did some layout, then set the posts, it's tucked within some trees, so it will landscape nicely around it, a good spot for it, also has a 16' side door + both ends open, and I can put an annex to the right for additional shed storage off that side.

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Billy NY

03-19-2007 11:43:08




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
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I set these 18'-0" 6"x6"'s with no help, kind of a pain, having some one hold em once set where you want it, makes it so much easier and I'll not do these by myself again. The opportunity arised quick allowing this to happen, availability of a free hoe etc. so I did the best I could, could have set them on something like those cookies, but the soil is similar to 4 ton class soil, so I'm not worried time really did not allow for finess work, would have taken a bit more time to hold elevation when working alone, but the building is quite square and the tops are even well within tolerance. I think they will hold and last quite awhile. The rest will be a little more fun.

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Billy NY

03-19-2007 11:18:07




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
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I always enjoy these questions regarding pole type and other buildings. The responses from all around are interesting because of the variables like soil conditions, connection details and associated costs.

I've often thought of trying to figure a way to keep posts out of the ground, but it's never easy, nor cheap as I see it. I often thought that a precast concrete extension, the same dimension as the post designed to extend the end of a post via connection plates, for the depth of ground contact would be an interesting solution for posts that may prematurely succomb to associated ground moisure and subsequent decay. I'm sure there are foundation designs that may allow for post connections above ground, but higher costs will be associated I'm sure. Food for thought, how to improve the durability of posts set in the ground. Not the first to try figure that one I'm sure.

I would think that you would need to set these into the ground to be stiff and brace as necessary, 12" auger ought to work if the soil is not too hard, if hard, try softening it up with water, rocks they are a pain to deal with. The detail around posts below ground, so many variables to consider, but heavily preserved wood is a good start. Plenty of decks are built on sono tube piers, but can you make a connection on top, brace the frame of the building and still make it stiff as if the posts were in the ground 4'-5' ? If the shell were stiff then it would seem like the same thing as setting it on a foundation, just need to anchor it down, not familiar with the options on that. With windload to consider, the anchor detail would have to be substantial.

I've also realized that nothing lasts forever when it comes to buildings, and with my tendencies for overkill in an attempt to create something that will last a long time, kind of have to compromise a bit or nothing gets done LOL !

I set the posts for my latest fiasco, LOL, a 20'-0" x 32'-0" building, these were .40 or could have been .60 CCA P.T. 6"x6"x18' delivered in the late 70s and sat until last year, on their sides, out in the open, the result of someones project that never happened. The carpenter ants did several of them in but miraculously stayed within certain timbers and left the rest alone. Several years ago I retrieved them, then when ready to use, I treated the bottoms with creosote and old motor oil, had found a jug of creosote laying around and decided to use that and used motor oil, was nice and hot out, so they were dry and soaked it up nicely. I set them as deep as I could, I still have to bring the grade up, so eventually they could be 5 feet in the ground and still give me 12'-0" height, soil is well drained here and I used the same soil around them for packing, after a few heavy rains, they settled in and are stiff. Figuring that once the roof is on, with 2' or 3' overhangs, gutters and good surface drainage around, these posts ought to hold up as the ground moisture should be kept to a minimum I would think. I like utility poles, they seem to last a long time around here, power company is doing some major work on the easement through our place here and there are some not so old ones coming out, not sure if they will allow me to grab a few, but I'll take those anytime I can get em.

I've always been savvy about finding useable materials and other resources, and these posts I used were no cost, neither was the late model hoe I used to set them except the fuel and grease have a pile of good used lumber from a demo job and some sawmills to check in with for other materials, so far the costs have been minimal, can't wait to get more done on it. Like doing demo work and finding good used materials, with the costs today, hard to ignore.

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Mike M

03-19-2007 11:01:59




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
Around here-ohio- they all put concrete cookies in the bottom for pole to set on then put dirt around the pole as the concrete will rot them quicker.I like to pack the dirt in ,but the production builders just leave it loose.Too much work for them to pack I guess ? Our Lester building had rebar bent to put in the bottom of the hole,set cookie on that,then pole,then ends of rebar were at a 90 for about 2" and you pounded them into the post on 2 sides and put some fence staple in also to hold it this worked to hold the poles in for uplift.

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paul

03-19-2007 09:47:37




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
I'm unclear if you are planning on encasing the wood poles in the concrete, or if you are making concrete piers with the poles attached to the top of the concrete?

'Here' encasing wood poles in a concrete sock like that ensures it will rot off quickly. A real bad idea. I hear it works in other climates, so who knows. But would _not_ stick the pole inside of 5 foot of concrete.

If you attach the pole on top of a concrete pier, remember that a pole shed depends upon a lot of lateral support for the poles (typically from being in good clay ground) so you need to make the attachment _very_ solid, so as to make the concrete foot & the wood pole as one, no flex between them.

--->Paul

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glennster

03-19-2007 11:04:05




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to paul, 03-19-2007 09:47:37  
was planning on encasing the poles in concrete in the sona tube. thought about putting the stone on the bottom of the hole and maybe the first foot or so of the pole, then drop the sona tube on, lift it a little to get the mushroom like buickanddeere advised, that way the bottom of the pole can drain out if it gets any water in it. open for any advice, thanks



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paul

03-19-2007 19:41:59




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 11:04:05  
That would be a bad idea here in southern MN in my soils. A small doughnut of concrete down at the bottom, otherwise good clay soil around the wood is by far the best. The pole would rot off more quickly right where it enters the concrete 'here'. Just dirt is the best.

Like I say, I hear of that done in other places, so it must work well in some climates. So I'm not saying what you need to do.

I wouldn't do that here.

--->Paul

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buickanddeere

03-19-2007 08:38:01




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
Keep the Sono-Tube a foot off the bottom of the hole. That leaves a mushroom shaped lump on the bottom of the pole, very sturdy.



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Wm Manchulenko

03-19-2007 08:22:05




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
I have found out over the years , setting poles for a shed or fence posts that a clay based gravel , such as A base that they use on road surfaces works really great . Packing in slightly , and letting nature give it a bit of water , firms then up likeb cement , They are easy to pull out if neededas the gravel just firms around the pole or post



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Vito

03-19-2007 08:06:47




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 Re: setting barn poles. in reply to glennster, 03-19-2007 07:55:25  
Glennster, Proably would be better to use a 3/4" minus sharp stone for sonotube base. This will give it more support( less voids).Hand tamp stone after putting stone in hole to give some compaction.I would suggest leaving tube out of ground 6" to 8'.Have fun with your project.



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