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Joel, If you decide to do it yourself, you may want to consider a air or gas powered finish nailer. --Come on now guys read the rest before you rant! Our crew even on roofs or sidewalls we use a finish nailer with out nails to punch holes in the steel. All the screw companies make the statment that they have a aggressive tip, yet alot of them you must keep checking your drill as it seems it must be running backwards or some one cut the end off each screw when no one was looking. Now most of our guys can walk roofs better than a monkey and all, but once you chalk line it, we all conclude we can save time by punching holes in the steel. We use a Pasload with a rubber tip on the saftey as it does not skid on the steel so much, and has no hose to drag around. Another word of advise is to make sure your 1/4" nut driver has a magnet, and is deep enough so it does not wobble (keep it cleaned out) Spend a little extra and avoid the two hundred bit sets for $1.95 no China trinkets, as you pretty much get what you pay for. Many of the better 1/4inch nut drivers can be adjusted deeper with a 1/4" stem on another bit. Take the second bit --the part that goes into the drill and insert it into your 1/4" nut driver bit (socket end) and smack it with a hammer. Most tool dealers will tell you that this is not so, but it is for alot of them. However remember your screws could be 5/16 although seldom is this so unless you have a metal grid building. Another thing to consider is if you decide to use visqueen for a moisture barrier, use clear because you can see the bottom cord of your truss better. My mind wonders as I think about all the times I have been asked to fix a small avoidable problem with a do it youselfer project. Make sure you put a nailer on the end wall truss--so you have something on the very end of your steel to screw to. Before--- you put the visqueen up. Be sure to make a mark on the face of the J chanel or framing closure so you can identify the center of your nailer after your sheet is in place. Although most companies for a need to cut down on inventory / overhead have discontinued the framming closure, and make a J chanel only. The framing closure has a full 2 inches of --J-- so your cuts do not have to be so perfect. When installing J chanel or framing closure around the sidewall. It also needs something to nail to. Again before putting up the visqueen. I sure do not intend to down play your skills, but if it is not ones daily work, it can be at times a some what less efficent project. A sheet rock jack will make the job alot more enjoyable if you do not have a experianced crew and a lack of extra help. Some times the wife just can't hold it up very long while you screw the sheet on. Lay a longer 2 X 8 on top of the jack and wire it on before you set the steel sheets on if they are real long sheets. Most folks do not know you can cut a sheet of steel lenght wise with nothing more than a sharp utility knife--IT will make a perfect cut, and is very easy to do. J chanell, or framing closure can be nailed or stapled on with a roofing air nailer or roofing stapler.
If you blow insulation, you may want to mark your rafter webbing with a lumber crayon at the depth of your desired insulation. You can also just take a few scrap 1 X 2's or plaster lath cut to the correct depth and staple them to the bottom cord. Guaging the depth of insulation with a naked eye when blowing is very difficult to be accurate. Again do this before the visqueen is installed. Using visueen can be argued to use / don't use by others, I will stay out of that one.
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