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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Another Garage door opener question

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Pete-IN

02-20-2007 09:43:24




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10 yr old Sears garage door opener. When closing, it only goes about 6 to 12 inches and then reverses and goes up, like a cat walked in front of the electric eye. It raises like it should. Started this a couple weeks ago when temp was 0 and below around here. I figured it was the cold temp. Many things including me don't work well in those conditions. Last 2 days temp is in 40's and problem is still with me. I have spray lubed all rollers and hinges. When door is unhooked from the pull rope disconnect it raises and lowers with very little effort. Also when unhooked from pull rope, and door down the mechinism goes down with no problem. About 3 months ago I tightend the bicycle chain cause it was sagging, but it worked fine after that. Any one got any ideas what to look for next?

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Pete-IN

02-21-2007 09:32:27




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Problem is solved guys. Many thanks to all who replied. I adjusted the down force screw (didn't have to turn it much) and eveything is working properly. The knowledge of folks on this site continualy amazes me. Pete



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willie in mn

02-21-2007 04:37:17




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Pete
Couple quick tests to help isolate the trouble & couple tips about the door itself.
1-pull the release rope & give it a try. If the opener works ok without being hooked to the door, the opener is ok & the door might be binding.
2-try holding the wall button. If it works now, the trouble most likely is in the "eye" circuit. Could be anything from a poor wire connection, to something blocking the beam, or one of the sensors got bumped out of line. The little red light should be "on" at all times. If it flickers when the opener is running it is possible that motor vibration has worked a connection loose.

The door itself-
1- remove & discard the rope that was originally there for manually closing the door. It has been known to swing through the beam & trip the reverse, catch on a bracket & stall the opener, & worse yet, catch & injure or kill your favorite child or pet that happens to be there while door is operating.
2-Keep the track clean & dry- those are rollers, NOT SLIDERS. A quick shot of your favorite silicon lube, even WD40, in the roller bearing & hinges once a year is more than enough. Excess oil etc just collects dirt & gums up the works.

Of all the openers I have installed in the last 35+ years, there has been only 1 failure- power surge cooked the whole control system, but that's another story.
HTH
Willie

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Rod in Smiths Falls, ON,

02-20-2007 20:11:56




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Up here we'd blame the problem on automotive exhaust, snowflakes blowing in, or snow on the floor. Cobwebs will do it as well.



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fixerupper

02-20-2007 18:20:46




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Just telling a story here - Mine started doing that and it turned out that a part of the old pull rope for the door was hanging down and blocking the sensors when the door was almost down. After a half hour of fiddling, I found it. Boy did I feel dumb! Jim



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Bob

02-20-2007 18:39:48




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to fixerupper, 02-20-2007 18:20:46  
I had the same thing happen with a GDO I installed for the wife's Aunt.

It worked fine for several years, then, suddenly would stop it's downward travel and reverse, probably 8 out of 10 times.

It is embarrassing to admit how long I fiddled with the "lowering force" adjustment and spring tension before noticing the loop of rope swing past the "eye".

The only thing WEIRD was why did it work for a couple of years before acting up? The rope must have stretched or twisted, all of a sudden.

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RayP(MI)

02-20-2007 18:09:57




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Besides all the suggestions below, you might try standing so your shadow blocks the light shining into the electronic eye(s.) Mine is on the south side of the garage, and sometimes the sunlight will blind either or both of the eye modules.



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Ken B.

02-20-2007 15:49:12




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Break the beam , one should go out . Watch that eye as the door closed if it bilnks. Then they need to be adjusted (might have been bumped) Ken B



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MarkB_MI

02-20-2007 15:17:36




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Your chain may have jumped a sprocket tooth or two. When the door is all the way up, the trolley should be a couple of inches short of the stop bolt. If it hits the bolt then you need to loosen the chain, reposition it and retighten to get the proper spacing between the trolley and the stop bolt.

You probably have four adjustments: up force, down force, up travel and down travel. Once the chain is close, you can adjust the up and down travel. If it reverses when it just touches the floor, then you either need to back off the down adjustment or increase the down force. When properly adjusted, you should be able to put a 2x4 under the door and have it reverse when it touches the 2x4.

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Lumpy

02-20-2007 13:59:51




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Look at the weather stripping around the door and the door frame. Is the door frame " wraped " with aluminum? If so, see if there are any " rub " marks on it. If it is bare wood check of " rub " marks. In either situation, go to walmart, auto parts store, etc and buy a can of silicone spray. Go to town sparying the track, rollers, and door frame where the door seals or touches. You will be amazed at the difference it makes.

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Gary from Muleshoe

02-20-2007 13:25:46




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
I just had the same problem with a Master Craft brand. I made ever adjustment possible and it would not stop. As long as I held the button on the wall down it would close. I finally gave up and installed a new opener.



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Stumpalump

02-20-2007 12:36:09




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Mine has the sensors and an up and down limit adjutment pot but it also has an up and down tourqe adjusting pot.



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the flying Belgian

02-20-2007 11:50:41




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Sometimes there will be a near invisable cobweb blowing in front of sencers.



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Glenn F.

02-20-2007 09:54:34




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Those openers are pretty sensitive. I had the same problem with one of mine during our recent cold weather....ended up, the door got a little too close to the frame at one point. I adjusted it away a little, carefully lubed up all the pulleys and rollers and it works fine now. As you probably already have, disconnect the opener, and repeatedly/slowly open and close it, listening/feeling for the least resistance. It doesn't take much. Mine now closes smoother/quieter than it has for years.

Glenn F.

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Vern-MI

02-20-2007 09:50:57




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 Re: Another Garage door opener question in reply to Pete-IN, 02-20-2007 09:43:24  
Most openers have infra-red sensors that mount on either side of the garage door a few inches off the floor. Check that they can "see" one another. The IR receive sensor led should turn on and off as you break the beam with your hand. Verify led on IR receiver is fully on and not faintly flickering. You may need to cup your hand over led to verify this status as flickering levels are easily overlooked (light level should be steady). You want IR sensors perfectly aligned If the alignment is �marginal� the vibrations encountered during operation will trigger a momentary break and your door will go back up. The door won�t close if beam is broken. Align the sender first by eye and then the receiver using the led indicator as your guide. Make sure the wires that go to the back of the sensors are not broken. Also verify lenses are clean and free of debris. In rare cases down force setting can trigger this same problem but this normally occurs at other door positions where more friction is encountered. A broken spring or cable jumped behind its pulley can exhibit same but the opener is actually operating correctly and going into safety mode. Avoid this confusion by testing door manually before troubleshooting the opener.

If your motion sensors check good and door operates ok manually try turning down force dial clockwise, It is typically at 1 for a single width door or 3 for a double. Increase to 5 or 7 for test purpose. As doors get older their springs weaken. If you have increased down force threshold and the door continues to reverse, the RPM sensor is the culprit. There is no way to override or test this sensor by using the hand unit or the wall control. When this sensor goes bad the door will start down and the logic board will not receive the electronic pulses and it will reverse. It is this sensor that causes the door to reverse when it runs into something. The motor stalls, the logic board doesn't receive these pulses and it reverses. This little circuit board is located at the door end of the motor shaft and every door company has them in stock. Take the cover off the unit and you will see a black cap on the end of the shaft that rotates between infrared sensors. That small circuit board is the culprit. Make sure you reinstall serrated cap so that as it turns it breaks sender receiver path on new board.

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