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The tank is why the pump cycles like it does. It has to have the tank and air head to operate properly. If you have a tank full of incompressable fluid (water) is it like having no tank at all. Since fluid is incompressable, the pump cycles on, builds pressure in an instant, cycles off, the water, not holding the pressure due to its incompressability, depressurizes instantly, the pump again cycles on, and off and on and off. If this is a bladder tank you need to set the pressure at about 2-4 psi below the pressure that the switch cuts ON at. This will assure you that you still have a flow of water when the pump comes on. If you get the tank pressure above the pump switch cut in pressure, the flow of water will stop and finally the pump will cut in, very annoying. Use a very accurate gauge and measure the pressure the pump comes on at. Turn off the pump, open a faucet and leave it open, use this same gauge to measure the pressure you have in the tanks bladder, and as I noted, set it two to four psi below the switch pressure. If you have water in the bladder then it is bad. A few tanks actually have replacable bladders and valves, most don't. Proper air charge will go a long ways toward a good working well system, and get you the most water out of the faucet between pump cycles. Charles
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