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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Boat ???

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Kip2

01-24-2007 10:23:40




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I bought a 16' aluminum boat last summer to do a little fishing the carpet needs replacing I been striping it out in spare time all the trim screws are steel hex head self tapping there all rusty I would like to use Stainless for the replacements I have been told everything under the sun. some say they will rot the boat some say use dielectric compound on them some say they will be fine will outlast the boat the is a 1985 Fisher I have found out tracker bought out Fisher in late 90s my boat was built in a plant in Ind. now closed Thanks Guys

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IA Roy

01-27-2007 19:54:11




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 Re: Boat ??? in reply to Kip2, 01-24-2007 10:23:40  
I would use 300 series SS fasteners. While there is some galvanic corrosion, the potential voltage between these materials is very low as is the corrosion. Aluminum would be better, but the availability is somewhat limited, and is not as strong as SS. Fastenal is a large supplier with a large variety.



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Nolan

01-25-2007 10:36:59




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 Re: Boat ??? in reply to Kip2, 01-24-2007 10:23:40  
The link might help you understand the issues.

SS and aluminum when placed together and wet create a current and do eat the aluminum. In your case, you'll probably be fine for many years. The SS screws on my aluminum canoe have been there for decades now.

But if you were to leave the boat in salt water, and the ss were big pieces, you'd be in trouble quite quickly. Which is why the zinc anode is so important to the aluminum outdrives and lower units on powerboats. Let that anode disapear, and the next thing on the galvanic scale is the aluminum outdrive itself. Which generally is not a good thing to sacrifice.

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MarkB_MI

01-25-2007 03:47:33




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 Re: Boat ??? in reply to Kip2, 01-24-2007 10:23:40  
Stainless steel and aluminum are the only acceptable materials for fastening aluminum in a marine environment. Do not use silicon bronze or monel, they will certainly eat up your boat with galvanic action. Brass has very poor corrosion resistance in a marine environment, and the use of plain steel fasteners in your boat doesn't speak well for the manufacturer.

I have no idea what kind of dielectric compound you could use in this application. A self-tapping screw is not going to benefit from anti-sieze compound, and anti-sieze is a conductive, not dielectric material.

I buy my stainless fasteners from Jamestown Distributors. Good prices, selection and service. Link below.

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Steve Crum

01-24-2007 21:35:46




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 Re: Boat ??? in reply to Kip2, 01-24-2007 10:23:40  
Why worry about it? If you can afford to run a boat in this day and age you certainly afford to buy new.



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Gary Schafer

01-24-2007 20:10:52




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 Re: Boat ??? in reply to Kip2, 01-24-2007 10:23:40  
Stainless hardware in the aluminum will be fine. Stainless and aluminum will react in salt water and eventually eat the aluminum away around the stainless screw or bolt but it takes a long time. If it is constantly under water you may notice it happen in a few years but above water it will last many years. Fresh water even longer.

Stainless and aluminum is the least evil of fasteners you can use.

Regards
Gary

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Rod in Smiths Falls, ON,

01-24-2007 16:18:07




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 Re: Boat ??? in reply to Kip2, 01-24-2007 10:23:40  
I assume it has a welded hull. One Fisher I helped a relative sell developed cracks between the transom and the water line. The guy who bought it fixed them, no problem, but the bilge pump was very important until then. Nice boat, great fun to drive with a '70.

I've redone a couple of those 80's fishing boats, 16' Alcan hulls. I didn't put carpet back in. The first got mahogany plywood with gritty paint for a floor. The more recent I did with fibreglass decks over plywood, the same as on a cabin cruiser. It took about $400. worth of materials and a lot of time, but it did a good job and my boat can sit all summer uncovered in a slip without damage.

You'll likely need to replace a lot of the plywood while you have the carpet out. Something else: a builder taught me to seal the edges of the plywood with epoxy glue and to be sure to fill every void in the end grain. Then the plywood can last.

Good luck with the project.

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mjbrown

01-24-2007 13:25:26




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 Re: Boat ??? in reply to Kip2, 01-24-2007 10:23:40  
I work on boats for a living (mostly carbon) and I would only use stainless hardware. Some is more stainless than others. Use the ones with the least iron. Pricey but your labor is worth it.



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bo

01-24-2007 12:10:48




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 Re: Boat ??? in reply to Kip2, 01-24-2007 10:23:40  
got two aluminum row boats...use stainless screws...not a problem....problem might show up as both are only about 20 years old.



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old

01-24-2007 10:53:56




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 Re: Boat ??? in reply to Kip2, 01-24-2007 10:23:40  
Well since I did work for tracker boats back from 1986-1992 I can tell you they when they used screws never used any compound on them. And most of the boats they used rivits on and welding. My self if I where you I would use the rivits and then you wil not have the problem



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glennster

01-24-2007 10:32:28




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 Re: Boat ??? in reply to Kip2, 01-24-2007 10:23:40  
i would say use the die-electric compound if your going to use stainless. being a dis similiar metal, the aluminium vs stainless will oxidize. if you are not going thru hull with the fasteners, how about using aluminum pop rivets?



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