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JP, You say it draws 20 amps MAX but Im unsure sittin here if it might draw 20 amps "CONTINUOUS" under a sustained load????? ??? if its 20 amps continuous you should NOT use 12 Gauge wire..... In addition to the plain old ampacity rating, there are other NEC rules concerning "continuous" loads that come into play. Besides, the bigger wire will reduce voltage drop, allow for expansion, and dont forget when a motor starts it draws something like 6 times the current then when its running. If the saw only drew something like 10 to 15 amps max continuous then you could get by with 12 gauge wire, but that 20 amp figure you threw out REGARDLESS if its max or whatever causes me to recommend 10 gauge wiring, ESPECIALLY since the cost difference over a short run is so minimal BETTER SAFE THEN SORRY THEREFORE I would strongly advise if youre gonna run a branch circuit to feed it, I WOULD USE 10 GAUGE (30 amp rated) wiring. I say that REGARDLESS if the 20 amps you mentioned is max or continuous just as a safer and porecautionary and better design..... .. The 12 versus 10 gauge thing is NOT cuz its 120 or 240 volts, its cuz of the amperage load. Either typical wire insulation is wayyyyy yyyy higher in voltage rating then just 110 or 220 anyway. Is it going to be a cord with plug to a receptacle attachment or what????? If so that satisfies as a means of disconnect. HOWEVER if its hard wired then I would place a 240 volt 30 amp 2 pole blade type safety switch disconnect on the wall with flexible conduit like seal tite etc ran from it to the saw. The branch circuit will require 3 conductors, Two hots (L1 and L2 Phase wires, red and black typical colors) plus a safety equipment ground, (normally bare or green insulated) Hope this helps n answers your questions. The needed materials (wire and safety switch and/or receptacles n plugs and flexible conduit if needed etc) are relatively inexpensive and avaialbkle at liek Home Depot or Menards or Lowes etc. John T
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