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Without looking at it, it is hard to explain. If your building is of pole construction, with large, heavy trusses at the poles, then there should be purlins between the trusses that support the roof. If those purlins are spaced at a standard distance, 16" or 24" on centers, and they are made of wood, it shouldn't be too much of a trick to get fiberglass of the right dimension and to install it between the purlins. Then cover the fiberglass with heavy poly sheeting (I think white would look the best) stapled to the purlins. If there is a space inside the trusses, that could be stuffed with fiberglass. I would continue the vapor barrier over the trusses and seal the edges with duct tape to prevent the interior moisture from going through the gaps. It is a big job, but would also help hold out some summer heat transfer and be winter insulation so you might be able to heat the building sometimes. Of course another way would be to remove the roofing and put the proper insulating vapor barrier down before you put the panels back on. This would be a lot cheaper, but not a bit practical for doing this time of year. That method would not do much beyond stopping the condensation. The insulation is not very thick, just enough to hold the vapor barrier off the inside of the tin. But it should stop the drips. If your building is stick built, with conventional rafters or trusses, the fiberglass bats are installed the same as they might be in walls. Adding the plastic vapor barrier with trusses would be a lot of work and a challenge to get tight. It might be easier to remove the tin and add the regular thin barrier. When I have built buildings using regular trusses, I have fully sheeted the roof with OSB and added a layer of 30lb felt under the roofing. No condensation and no leaks...but fairly expensive. It's sure too bad that when they built your building, they didn't install the insulated barrier! Good luck.
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