Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Fuseable links

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Slowpoke

12-31-2006 14:49:20




Report to Moderator

Is there any reason why I can't replace fuseable links with in-line blade fuses? The one I need to replace had been changed before I got the truck. The connector has to be cut off each time so the wire in the harness is getting shorter and shorter. I have no idea yet why the link went bad, maybe it had something to do with the connection to the relay solenoid terminal that got fried because of the very, very, poor and rusty positive battery cable that was on the solenoid + post. Also, where can I find a chart that compares fuseable link gauges with fuses?
Thanks

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Slowpoke

01-02-2007 00:18:40




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Slowpoke, 12-31-2006 14:49:20  
Thanks to all for this discussion on fusible links. I went to many sites including the ones mentioned in these posts. I was unable to find all answers in one place, just pieces here and there. Well, the one link of 16 gauge that I need to replace is not on any charts, so I'll start with a 10 amp ATO fuse and work up from there. Wire style fuseable links are becoming obsolete and have been replaced with....fusible links. Also called Fusible Elements. Those are the ones with straight or right angle legs. Ratings are from 20 to 100 amps and are slow blow.

Here are a couple of sites to see:
www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/register

www.autoshop101.com/forums/hweb1.pdf(may be hwebl)

www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml

www.minimoparknizefamily.net/electrical-links.html

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
RayP(MI)

01-01-2007 16:21:24




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Slowpoke, 12-31-2006 14:49:20  
Fusable links that I have seen are usually pretty well sealed in plastic insulation. The locations have been in places where splash and corrosion would be important considerations, like down at the starter terminals. I would expect that inline fuses wouldn"t survive those conditions very long, even if you could get proper current carrying capabilities.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
riverbend

01-01-2007 16:14:01




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Slowpoke, 12-31-2006 14:49:20  
This sounds familiar. I spent a day tracking down a no charge situation on Mary's Dodge Prospector. Google 'electrical issues minimopar resources' for information on links vs fuses.

I have not found a replacement for the fuseable links, but it is on my list. The boom car stereo guys might have a fuse block that will take 100A and four Maxi-fuses. High current circuit breakers are not available at NAPA.

What a dumb idea, have part of the wiring harness burn up instead of an easily replacable fuse.

Greg

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
KEB

12-31-2006 22:22:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Slowpoke, 12-31-2006 14:49:20  
NAPA and similar places carry fuseable link wire in various ratings that you can cut to length and put new terminals on. I believe that fuseable links blow much slower than even a slow-blow fuse, and would be concerned about fuses blowing when they shouldn't be if you used fuses instead.

I really can't see any advantage in replacing fuseable links with a fuse, since they shouldn't ever melt unless something major is wrong. Fuses have been known to blow just because they felt like it....

The only time I've ever seen a fuseable link open up was in the glow plug circuit on my old '93 Ford diesel pickup. As near as I could tell, the problem was a corrodded terminal that resulted in excessive heat & eventually melted the wire.

Keith

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Slowpoke

01-01-2007 23:52:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to KEB, 12-31-2006 22:22:16  
Keith, my '86 F250 problem may have been the same as yours.
The corrosion on the + battery cable terminal at the solenoid relay (next to the battery) had heated the 3/8" stud and surrounding plastic to a point where it broke off when I tried to remove the nut. Someone had soldered the steel lug to the cable instead of crimping it and it had a heavy coat of rust. One of the fusible links connected to the same stud was fried, but still unbroken. I don't know if it was a result of the hot connection or something before. One discovers all kinds of problems that past owners failed to repair correctly or not at all.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Don L C

12-31-2006 20:11:04




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Slowpoke, 12-31-2006 14:49:20  
MJ has the right idea.....fuseable links are used in places where you want the circut to come back on as soon as it cools a little..... like headlights..... A fuse blows and your out of luck.....



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob

12-31-2006 21:39:43




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Don L C, 12-31-2006 20:11:04  
Fuseable links DON'T "come back", period.

They are simply a CHEAP slow-blow fuse.

That MAY be a disadvantage when replacing them with a common automotive fuse, as the fusible links WILL carry an overload for a length of time before burning out, while the typical automotive fuse will blow almost instantly under overload.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Slowpoke

01-01-2007 23:24:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Bob, 12-31-2006 21:39:43  
If you are referring to the old glass type fuse, you are correct. But here is some info I found on Maxifuse�. (Named that because they are made in higher current ratings than minifuses or middle size ATO/ATC fuses.)

110% overload.. 4 hours.
200% overload.. 4 to 60 seconds. 300% overload.. .2 seconds to 2 seconds.

So they are a slow blow fuse.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Hal/WA

12-31-2006 21:19:05




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Don L C, 12-31-2006 20:11:04  
The several times I have had trouble with fusible links, when they went, they were not coming back on without a repair. They burned right through and in one case, more or less vaporized.

I like fuses much better than fusible links, since they are lots easier to replace. It suspect that fusible links are cheaper than doing a proper fuse and block and the manufacturer are always looking for any way to save a penny. But I read somewhere that a fusible link can function as a kind of a "slow blow" fuse.

I have usually been able to repair my damaged fusible links by soldering them together. After I found out why they blew in the first place. Making the fusible link a little shorter would change its capacity a bit, but usually the circuits I have been working on didn't usually carry nearly as much current as would make a difference--at least after I fixed the problem that caused it to blow in the first place.

If I had a fusible link that blew over and over, I would check out everything the link powers. If I didn't find a problem with any component, I would consider removing some of those components and placing them on a different circuit to reduce the load on that fusible link. And if I made a new circuit, I would for sure include a proper sized fuse in it.

A circuit breaker is another good option. But they are fairly expensive and usually are only used on circuits like the headlights, which really have to come on again soon after they have reacted to an overload.

I have seen people "repair" blown fusible links with larger wire. It stopped the problem of the fusible link blowing, but probably reduced the protection to the wiring harness. A wiring fire will really get your attention!!!! A fusible link is there for a reason. Good luck!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Allan In NE

01-01-2007 02:59:39




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Hal/WA, 12-31-2006 21:19:05  
I hear ya,

That fuse link is there for a reason.

Fuse links are based on the theory of "weakest link in the chain" and repairs can be made with ordinary wire by using two sizes SMALLER than the smallest sized wire in the circuit. This insures that if things go south, the thinner wire will fail/burn first thereby saving the rest of the wiring.

By going larger, the problem is just compounded.

Allan

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Slowpoke

01-01-2007 23:06:44




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Allan In NE, 01-01-2007 02:59:39  
As I have learned after about 4 hours of chasing fusible links on Google is that the only thing wrong with replacing one with ordinary wire of the correct size is that the insulation can/will melt and burn, possibly causing a fire. Fusible link insulation will not melt and burn.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Hal/WA

01-01-2007 13:10:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Allan In NE, 01-01-2007 02:59:39  
That is what I meant and thought I wrote. A fusible link IS a fuse, or substitute for one and very necessary IMHO.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CENTAUR

12-31-2006 16:42:35




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Slowpoke, 12-31-2006 14:49:20  
Go to Google & type in FUSABLE LINKS.Scroll down the first page to ELECTRICAL ISSUES-MiniMopar Issues.Just what we both need to know.CENTAUR



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
mj

12-31-2006 15:42:30




Report to Moderator
 Re: Fuseable links in reply to Slowpoke, 12-31-2006 14:49:20  
How about soldering a circuit breaker in there?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy