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"Large old lathes had a crash bar about waist high that would disconnect things." Not any of the ones I have seen. The clutch handle might be close by if it is a gear head, but a cone head has only the switch, if you can reach it and if it isn't a lineshaft machine. The Craftsman manual is actually very good, as good as the SB book. Just read and re-read it until it makes sense. Another good source for the basics is here: Link I have the lathe, mill, dril press, and grinding machine sections printed out and stuck in three-ring binders. Beware, you'll need a lot of paper! As long as this machine isn't in backgear, it can't do a whole lot of damage to itself or you. That is one great thing about a light cone head lathe like this. If you run the carriage into the chuck (which you will) or take too big a bite, it's just going to stall and slip the belt in the top speeds. It'll certainly bite you, but it's not going to remove major body parts either. Backgear is a different story. There is definitely the potential to break things there. Fortunately, it wil also be running very slowly, so you have more time to see what is happening and prevent wrecks. In backgear it can also easily break bones and remove parts. Save that for once you are a bit more familiar with it. You might also hang out on a couple of the machinists forums and soak up knowledge there. There are several very good ones, just see which one fits you best. Unles your machine is broken, it will be imposible to engage the threading half nuts and the feed at the same time. Most lathes built after the 1880s have interlocks. Always put the tool on center, carbide or HSS. Not putting the tool on center will cause it to rub as diameter decreases and also changes the effective rake angle of the tool. Just don;t ptu the tool below center. That will cause the work to ride up on top of the tool. baaaad idea.
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