Serious Motor Oil Property changes-- ! ! ! !

Thanks BUDD

Gerald J.

Other than being a bit stiff leading to hard winter starts and poorer fuel economy, I don't think there is anything wrong with 15W40 diesel / gasoline oils, whether Delo (which I don't find in local stores) or Rotella. Though for my '98 F-150 Ford insists that oil thicker than the originally specified 5W30 won't get through the fine oil passages properly. And ever since I bought it second hand with 21,000 miles, it has sounded like the rod bearings were a tittle loose. Before I got the owner's manual, I topped it up with a quart of Rotella 15W40 and it immediately lost that rod bearing rattle. Now it has 94,000 miles and nothing has changed, except that Motorocraft oil has gone to a "synthetic blend" that seems to stick to the journals better for less rattle.

Further, the internet research that I did last month indicates that oils type SJ and earlier have not had a reduction of ZDDP, and a certain fraction of the oils on the shelves around here are rated SJ, SL, SM as a combination while some are only rate SJ. Its pretty sure that oils rated only SM have drastically reduced ZDDP. At the same time there are one or two brands rated SF "for older engines." I've not detected there is any ZDDP reduction in SJ and SF oils. And it may be that synthetic oils don't need the ZDDP to protect sliding lifters.

I'm torn on my F-150 between keeping on using the Motorcraft synthetic blend and sticking with a strictly SJ oil. For my 2002 VW Golf, the next oil change will probably be an SJ oil. Right now top ups (has an oil pan leak) are being made with Motorcraft oil.

The oil and auto maker's web pages all say SM is the best lube ever for ALL engines of any age. Your google search on ZDDP will turn up hundreds of those all with exactly the same politically correct text.

Gerald J.

I know some Ford Aerostar V-6 engines tend to wear the cams round and that started long before the supposed loss of slippery oil additive.

Gerald J.

Taking ZDDP out of oil makes catalytic converters last longer when the engine starts burning oil. That's the excuse I see.

Gerald J.

Nor does any common equipment manufactured prior to the mid 70's. Most engines swapped to roller and ohc setups in the 80's. So I will agree that engines built after the 80's will likely not need the stuff... The stuff built before the mid 70's will not be hurt by it. So the only problem I see is if you own a early 80's car, truck, or other catalytic converter equipped engine you will need the additive but it will damage your converter.

I admit that even with new valvesprings, I likely do not have the pressures to necessitate the ZDDP. But...

My recent $869 dollar rebuild kit coupled with a $477 dollar machine shop bill will likely have me reaching for the diesel oil for the break-in then researching the proper synthetic. I only have one crank grind left til I have a high dollar boat anchor. I'll take the ZDDP.

Your Pinto ran with the additive the entire time you owned it and after. The oil you bought was formulated with it. It was removed around 1999. Cheers,

Let's go Mountaineers!

Aaron