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Needed : info. from the guru's of the arc !!!

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Gene Davis

03-30-2001 16:27:35




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I want to know about the process of "baking rods".- is this for drying them out when damp. Is it a way of making them work better? What temp ,how long and how to do it, do you open the box, have the rods loose in a pan? Please enlighten me with a good understanding as I have some which have gotten exposed to damp air, but not wet. Thanks in advance for the help!! ***** Gene.




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T_Bone

03-30-2001 22:32:45




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 Re: Needed : info. from the guru's of the arc !!! in reply to Gene Davis, 03-30-2001 16:27:35  
Hi Gene, According to AWS you need to keep electrodes at 250degrees for 4 hrs before using and there after. Anytime the temps drops below 250 then it requires another four hours at 250 before using.

A 100w lite bulb in a insulated container just larger than 2 metal 50lb electrode containers will keep at 240 to 250 without a t-stat. The more moister the rods contain the longer they need to be dried. You do not want to put sealed metal containers in a heat oven as any temp abouve 212 will create a small amount of steam so pop small hole in the end cap. Of course they do make a expensive rod heater if you want to buy one.

Chemtron 7018 which is the best 7018 ever made will weld with a great improvement after drying so it helps alot but will weld good without drying.

T_Bone

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Alvin

03-31-2001 11:14:54




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 Re: Re: Needed : info. from the guru's of the arc !!! in reply to T_Bone, 03-30-2001 22:32:45  
I got a old apartment size electrie stove, took the guts out of oven put a lite bulb in regular oven lite socket and wired it to a circit of its own, works real good. everytthing else electrial on the stove is cut off. You can even leave the oven racks in so to seperate your different rods.



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Scott Green

03-31-2001 10:18:11




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 Re: Re: Needed : info. from the guru's of the arc !!! in reply to T_Bone, 03-30-2001 22:32:45  
For my own welding at home , I just pull the cold damp rod out of the cabinet and weld away.I think it would weld a little better if it was dried , but no problems the way it is. Some day I will put a little heated cabinet in my shop for welding rod. Now , where I work is a whole different story. They have many ovens around the plant for drying many different kinds of rod. Everything is put together with weld of some sort. It is all preasure vessel welding , being exrayed , inspected , etc.. I'm not a welder at the plant , so I can't tell you specifics. I have done welding at the plant on non production things , like stair , rails , etc.. Not being a certified welder , I can not work on production items. Personally , the only difference I can see is that the flux stays on the rod better if dried. At home , sometimes the flux will start to fall off.

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BFO

03-31-2001 10:43:55




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 Re: Re: Re: Needed : info. from the guru's of the arc !!! in reply to Scott Green, 03-31-2001 10:18:11  
For home use try rod that's labelled MR (moisture resistant, i.e. 7018MR), it'll take longer to absorb moisture. When using 7018, which has a low hydrogen coating, any moisture will cause a condition known as hydrogen embrittlement, and that condition wouldn't be favourable in a pressure vessel. You could by a busted refridgerater and rig it so the light bulb stays on. It won't be to AWS code, but the rod will be a lot drier. As always JMHO.

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Fred OH

04-02-2001 06:38:13




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Needed : info. from the guru's of the arc !!! in reply to BFO, 03-31-2001 10:43:55  
To continue on with what BFO said about the refrigerator thing, if you do use a refrigerator and the 40 watt bulb, an average bulb will last only about 2 to 3 weeks till it burns out. The way to get around this is to use a 100 watt bulb and install a 2 or 3 amp diode in one of the incoming 120 volt lines. Makes no difference which direction you install it or which leg, but the bulb will last into the years with this method. The type of welding that most do on this board doesn't require AWS type specifications, it's just getting by stuff. Studies have shown that keeping rod 10 degrees warmer than the temperature will help out considerably, but the setup above will keep the rod around 140 degrees and you don't have to worry about the flux falling off from moisture. It will do you just fine. L8R----Fred OH

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boman

04-10-2001 06:38:22




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Needed : info. from the guru's of the arc !!! in reply to Fred OH, 04-02-2001 06:38:13  
Interesting post about the diodes. How do they save the bulbs and will it not work for 40 watts? Can this mthod be used in house lighting? Hate to have to buy bulbs. They seem to burn out at close to same time. Makes sense if they are bought and installed at same time, I guess. Hope this does not inconvenience you. I really find it interesting. tx



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Fred OH

04-10-2001 07:25:47




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Needed : info. from the guru's of the arc !!! in reply to boman, 04-10-2001 06:38:22  
It changes the AC to pulsating DC and only 1/2 of the voltage, therefore you can double the size of the lightbulb (100 instead of 40) and you get a dim light with enough heat to keep your welding rod comfy. If you drew a series of AC (sineusoidal sp?)sine waves on paper and then eliminated all either above or below the zero line, this is what it would look like on a oscilloscope.
It will work on any incandescent bulb. You can experiment on it by taking an old lamp and installing a 2 or 3 amp diode in one leg of the incoming AC and putting a bulb in it (being careful not to use one larger than recommended by manufacturer) and turning it on to see how long it will last, but you'll have a long wait because a quarter bulb will last probably five years this way. Now go out and beat the system. (grin) L8R----Fred OH

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boman

04-10-2001 07:50:39




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Needed : info. from the guru's of the arc !!! in reply to Fred OH, 04-10-2001 07:25:47  
hehe, would do that if not for the dimming affect (house lighting). tx



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