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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Lathe Chuck Removal Problem

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Dan 7878

11-04-2006 15:23:21




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I have just bought myself a lathe (4" centre height) with a 3 jaw chuck, the problem is that i now need to mount a square bar in the chuck - so i bought a 4 jaw independent chuck.

How do i remove the 3 jaw chuck? there are no couplings visible at the back of the chuck so i am guessing it is screwed onto the spindle somehow. but i can`t lock the spindle to unscrew it, it is tight, and i dont want to damage the gearbox either.??

Thanks Dan

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Dan7878

11-06-2006 12:54:40




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 Re: Lathe Chuck Removal Problem in reply to Dan 7878, 11-04-2006 15:23:21  
Many thanks for the help, The lathe is a Keighley approx 1950 army surplus, I understand that it was made for the Royal Air Force during the Kenya Insurgency, probably as a "semi" portable although it is fairly substantial.
Unfortunately it looks like the chuck is going to be a stubborn one.

Thanks
Dan



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slowfolk

11-06-2006 05:15:45




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 Re: Lathe Chuck Removal Problem in reply to Dan 7878, 11-04-2006 15:23:21  
Put a wooden block on the lathe bed up to the jaw of the chuck and bump the lathe spindle in reverse. If the chuck is screwed on this will unscrew the chuck from the spindle.



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MikeCatthemuseum

11-05-2006 21:28:50




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 Re: Lathe Chuck Removal Problem in reply to Dan 7878, 11-04-2006 15:23:21  
As others have said, what brand and model is the lathe? Without knowing that, there is no way to be certain of the spindle type, but I have a real sneaking suspicion it is a threaded spindle (most small lathes are and this would only be 8" swing).

That said, putting it in back gear with the pin locked and smacking a bar with a hammer is a sure fire way to A) break the pin, or B) shear off a tooth on the backgear (some of you got lucky, but sooner or later it will). There are better ways to loosen that chuck.

This same queston came up recently on one of the machine forums (PM). One of the guys there had the best suggestion I have ever heard. Make a clamp similar to the big end of a connecting rod that fits the back end of the spindle tightly. If it wants to slip, a little locktite will put a stop to that. NOW put your bar in and whack it with a hammer. You're not going to break anything and the loctite is easy to get loose once you relese the bolts on the clamp.

BTW, not ALL L&S lathes had the threaded nut on the back (L-series tapers). I have an 18"er made in 1918 that has a huge threaded spindle (5 3/4"x6TPI threads), but reverse to the typical South Bend... the female threads are in the spindle, which is cup shaped. The male threads are on the back plate. This was the fore-runner to the L-series mount.

A 1969 L&S is far from old in my book, btw! I'd love to have one that new. Had to pass on a 69 1408 AVS because it was too far away. Maybe I'll find one close by one day.

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varmint

11-04-2006 18:04:03




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 Re: Lathe Chuck Removal Problem in reply to Dan 7878, 11-04-2006 15:23:21  
on my old atlas it is scrwed on and you can take it off by putting it in the back gear or locking it with the index pin. the first time i took it off it was hard so i used the back gear as i was afraid of breaking the index gear. it was pretty tite so i had a bar between the jaws and smacked it with a dead blow.



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Jeff Oliver

11-04-2006 17:36:31




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 Re: Lathe Chuck Removal Problem in reply to Dan 7878, 11-04-2006 15:23:21  
Need to know how the chucks are attached to the spindle. If they screw on then there should be a lock nut type system on it with a spanner wrench like the Lodge and Shipley does. Most any others have locking pins with locks that turn halfway to lock/unlock them.



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john d

11-04-2006 16:25:47




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 Re: Lathe Chuck Removal Problem in reply to Dan 7878, 11-04-2006 15:23:21  
Time for some investigation..... Depending on what kind of lathe it is, and how old it is, you may be able to lock the spindle after all. Check to see if the spindle has the capability of being put into what's called "back gear." Back gear isn't reverse, it's the name that was assigned to the feature which allows for a very low spindle speed by routing the power through an additional set of gears and countershaft that is typically found just below or behind (in back of) the spindle itself. On some lathes, there is a lid or cover that can be opened above the spindle on top of the headstock. If so, look for a small gear cut into the left end of the spindle, and a larger gear on the right side, about 3"-5" to the left of the chuck. If your spindle has those gears, then it has the "back gear" feature.

If so, rotate the spindle by hand and look for a way to un-couple the right end of the spindle from that large gear. It may be as simple as a pin that slides left and right. If that mission is accomplished, look for a lever or pull-rod that engages the countershaft. Some times, just putting the lathe in back gear will give enough drag on the spindle that you can lock a big adjustable wrench on one jaw of the 3-jaw chuck and hit it with a heavy mallet to unscrew the chuck. If not, you can engage the back gear with the spindle still in direct drive, and that WILL lock the spindle. Don't try to run the lathe with it locked.

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Midwest redneck

11-04-2006 15:56:15




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 Re: Lathe Chuck Removal Problem in reply to Dan 7878, 11-04-2006 15:23:21  
Does the 4 jaw chuck have a threaded spindle hole? If it does you can figure out the thread and make a mandrel for the 4 jaw and then mount the 4 jaw chuck in the 3 jaw..... That is what I did with my 4 jaw on my old Lodge and Shipley lathe from 1969. (works well, I didnt want to remove the 3jaw buck chuck that has been on there for years.



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Ryan - WI

11-04-2006 20:11:15




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 Re: Lathe Chuck Removal Problem in reply to Midwest redneck, 11-04-2006 15:56:15  
Not sure if this matters to you but doing it that way would compound the error. You would have the runout of each of the two chucks added together.



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Don-Wi

11-05-2006 21:06:05




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 Re: Lathe Chuck Removal Problem in reply to Ryan - WI, 11-04-2006 20:11:15  
Not saying I would do it that way either, but 4 jaw chucks are used to get the run-out out. You can dial them things in to no run-out. The first time is always a pain, but after that you get better..

Donovan from Wisconsin



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