Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Electric Code Question

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Pete7

10-30-2006 18:22:47




Report to Moderator

So can you guys help me understand this electric code rule. I'm told that the code does not allow for a house furnance to be wired with a plug and recepticle. The house furnance has to wired direct to the circuit breaker and on a dedicated circuit. The furnance is gas, hot air so it just has a small blower (fan) and the typical controls. What's the idea behind the wiring going direct to the circuit breakers? (I understand the dedicated circuit part of the rule) I had wanted to be able to use a portable generator to power the furnance if the electric went out and figured if the furnance had a power cord and plug it would make connecting it to the generator easy/simple. Must be a reason for the rule but I can't think what it might be.
Pete

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Dusty MI

10-31-2006 17:44:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
One of the codes, heating I think, requires the disconnect switch be within 5 feet/reach of the front of the furnace. It seems to me that switch could be a double throw, which would act as a manual transfer switch. Put a short cord with a male cord cap on end, with the other end wired to the generator side of this small transfer switch/furnace disconnect. This male cord cap would look dangerous but would only be hot when it is pluged into your generator.

I don't know what an inspector would think but I don't belive that it violates any code.

Dusty

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
John T

10-31-2006 16:04:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
I made a good livin designing by the NEC for years and came to realize its well thought out and researched and is to save lives and prevent fires despite how strange some sections may appear to the lay person.

John T retired EE



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
oldfarmtractor

10-31-2006 15:55:02




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
I have an outlet wired into my furnace system for the electronic air filter. Also, inline with the furnace is a shut off.

What I do, when there is a power loss is to unplug the electronic air filter, shut off the switch at the furnace, take my double male extension cord and run it off the generator.

Life is simple, even if you follow most of the rules. Of course the extension cord is the major flaw in the system but you can't have everything.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Stan in Oly, WA

10-31-2006 18:26:55




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to oldfarmtractor, 10-31-2006 15:55:02  
Hi oft,

What kind of electronic air filter do you have? I mean how does it work? If it's one of those ionizing types like Honeywell makes, or used to make, you should do some research on it to see if it is safe to use. My wife read that the ozone produced in the ionization of the dust particles was far more harmful to your respiratory system than the dust itself would be. This was devastating news to my wife. Her mother, who was incapacitated by COPD (which used to be called emphysema) for the last few years of her life before it killed her, spent money that she could ill afford on a new heating system with a then state-of-the-art ionizing electronic air filtration system in the hope that it would provide her some measure of relief from what was essentially a constant state of near suffocation. It nearly drove my wife to distraction to learn that rather than improving her mother's situation, the air filter may have worsened a situation that already seemed as if it could hardly be any worse.

All the best, Stan

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Gerald J.

10-31-2006 16:00:55




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to oldfarmtractor, 10-31-2006 15:55:02  
That extension cord is DEADLY.

Gerald J.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
IH2444

10-31-2006 09:40:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
Some believe that if you read the electrical codes long enough you will be able to fortell the end of the world.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
BillyinStoughton

10-31-2006 08:23:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
The NEC does require the furnace to have it's own dedicated circuit as you stated. What I have seen done in the past (with no sh*t from the inspectors), is to wire a 6" pigtail out of the furnace 120 VAC supply box with a cord end on it. If at some point you wanted to hook it to a generator, you now have your connection point. But as was pointed out by someone else, you must somehow disconnect the primary 120 VAC wiring to the furnace to avoid a backfeed condition to your service panel.

Billy

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
buickanddeere

10-31-2006 07:59:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
The furnace is on it's own dedicated circuit for the same reason the kitchen fridge cirucit is dedicated and is only allowed to share with the kitchen wall clock. It's a simple, no cost way to keep fools out of trouble. If some other load trips the circuit your house/pipes freeze or the food goes rotten.

Why are people so d*mb *ss tight wad cheap?

Just install a proper generator transfer switch. Those little rinky d*nk 4,6,8, emergency power sub panels are a high $$$ joke. >Link
Link href="http://www.reliancecontrols.com/ProductDetail.aspx?TTV2012D">Link
http://www.reliancecontrols.com/ProductDetail.aspx?TRB1212DR or the 200 amp feed through version

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Coloken

10-31-2006 15:40:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to buickanddeere, 10-31-2006 07:59:03  
I'm kinda late to this but B&D, you have all ways been 100 percent with me until now. Actual experence--We had A small generator that no way would handle the whole big house. We had to open up the pannel and find the furnace breaker and wire into that line. All so ran an extension cord up the stairs to her oxgen life support unit. My thoughts are a plug in at the furnace with only ONE hole. I like the clock tied to the refrig though.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Stan in Oly, WA

10-31-2006 10:03:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to buickanddeere, 10-31-2006 07:59:03  
Hi B&D,

Feel better now?

Being required to do something that makes no sense to us often makes us wonder if there isn't a simpler, or better, or, yes, cheaper way it could be done. Nobody would ever be able to convince me that every item of every code is totally reasonable. Members of the same species who write laws also write building codes. I know it's somewhat different in Canada but down here we're up to our a$$es in bad laws (i.e. I've got 60 days to find and resolve an error in the bank's favor but the bank has no time limit on dealing with an error in my favor.) If you read the newspaper (or watch the news if, like most Americans nowadays, you can't read too well) you'll certainly agree that we have plenty of reason to be skeptical of authority. Those who question the rules are, in my (never been accused of being) humble opinion, the ones who still show signs of brain function.

When someone thinks a rule doesn't seem to make sense and asks why they can't do it some other way instead, that's reasonable curiosity. When the good sense of the rule is explained to them but they don't agree with it and insist on doing it their own way, or they do agree with it but refuse to follow it for selfish reasons, THEN they're on a track that begins at stupid and ends at criminal.

You're a good guy, B&D. Your advice and information is always first-rate. The people who you should be exasperated with aren't the ones who ask the questions, but the ones who advise breaking sensible rules. I've noticed, though, that this site is sort of self policing. If someone wants to advise doing things in a sneaky or slipshod way, sometimes they're taken to task for it, but usually nobody says anything and that person is simply remembered as someone who gives that kind of advice. Contributors to Tool Talk establish reputations for themselves, whether they know it or not. Some are admired for their patience and the evenness of their temperaments (that wouldn't be you or me,) some for the depth of their expertise, some for the precision of their advice, some for their humor, etc. Those who are insulting, touchy, make trouble, or offer bad advice are known, too.

All the best, Stan

P.S. I'm still waiting for those bears you said you'd send me.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
buickanddeere

11-01-2006 08:46:00




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Stan in Oly, WA, 10-31-2006 10:03:03  
Thank you for the kind words. I try but do get wound up tight and frustrated when lay people are endangering them selves, and worse others. When they won't inquire or won't listen to professions As ol John T pointed out some of the electrical code is not obvious to those in the electrical trade let alone the lay person. The dedicated fridge, dedicated furnace circuits, 3 + sets of split receptacles in the kitchen and gfi 20amp 120V T-slot receptacles near the sink. They came into being after people kept plugging the toaster, coffee maker and frying pan into the same receptacle. Or shocked them selves. Or came home to a cold house and a warm fridge. Mama can't plug the portable 1500W heater in the kitchen to the same circuit as the fridge and stay out of trouble. Doesn�t matter how many times you explain either. They keep asking, what if I just turn it on a little bit? Best to just prevent her from plugging into the fridge or furnace circuit. I've worked on a few jobs where Mr. Home Tinkerer has made something "work" but it was a fire and safety hazard. The problem seems to be if the electrical device operates, �there isn't a fault�. I�d like every nay-sayer to work on a particular 120V basement well pump located upon a damp floor. Mr. Home Tinkerer had it running "alright". Problem was the stupid *ss used a two wire extension cord and wired the motor frame and one side of the motor windings 120V. And the other side of the motor windings to neutral. Then plugged it all into a two wire cheater light bulb adapter. Even when the motor wasn't running the pump would bite you with 120V if you touched it. The energized male generator plug prongs the tinkerers back feed with an accident looking for a place to happen. Judging by the number of smoked generators and backfeeds onto the grid still occurring. This shows people still are not getting the utility grid isolated form the building service/generator. A real concern for the people working on or even just being around downed power lines. My current generator won�t run the entire electrical panel so I just open the hot water heater and electric furnace breakers. When the wife tries to run the stove oven, a couple of top burners, microwave, every light and do a batch of laundry. I made her go out into the freezing rain and reset the generator breaker. This promptly solved the overloading problems. I must have c.r.s. ? I can't recall the bear situation.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Stan in Oly, WA

11-01-2006 11:36:45




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to buickanddeere, 11-01-2006 08:46:00  
The subject of bears was a sidetrack in a discussion on 5/15-5/16, 2005 about the legality of self defense from animal attacks.

Medical research has long held that death was nature's way of telling us to slow down, but it has now been conclusively demonstrated that it also prevents c.r.s.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
cj3b_jeep

10-31-2006 05:54:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
Wire it dedicated from the circuit breaker and be all smiles for the inspector. After the inspectors are all gone, wire it as you wish. You could always use a single outlet to make sure nothing else gets plugged into it.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
T_Bone

10-31-2006 05:47:23




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
Hi Pete,

If you could add wiring after the circuit breakers then there would be no way to isolate the furnace from potentialy using more than one power source. This is a requirement for safety too the unit as well as the repairman.

I'm pretty sure, I'm not up on current codes, that a dedicated unit auto transfer switch could used at the unit and still meet code but that would be a waste of money under normal conditions as it would be cheaper to add the auto tranfer switch at the load center and feed the generator from there. Then you could use your entire existing load center circuits.

My point being your not going to get by the auto transfer switch that code requires with generator use.

T_Bone

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
tech4

10-31-2006 05:42:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
Just a possible reason for dedicated hard wire circuit. Most plug in's use duplex receptacle. Years later when you are not around and the old couple in the house need heat and some one plugs their shorted saw or other appliance and kicks the furnace off. The dedicated hard wire circuit prevents using that circuit for the wrong reason.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bus Driver

10-31-2006 04:14:17




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
Article 422.12 notes that the furnace must be on individual circuit. Permanently connected appliances must have a disconnect within sight and accessible. The circuit breaker can be the disconnect if it meets the requirements above. Plug connecting a furnace would sort of defeat the requirement that it be on an individual circuit, but I find no specific prohibition to plug connecting a furnace.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Sam#3

10-30-2006 19:56:51




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
Over the past thirty years I've owned or rented about ten houses in Colorado, California, Texas and now Missouri and all have had either an outlet or a switch but none were direct wired to the breaker.
Whose code are you reading? Some city codes get a bit political.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
old

10-30-2006 19:50:06




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
Easy way to fix that and probably be with in code would be add another switch type box so you have a switchable set up to hook up to your genny. Of course you would need to check with your city/state to make sure what the code really says.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
freddy farmer

10-30-2006 18:30:48




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-30-2006 18:22:47  
Mine has a plug on it and it was wired that by the contractor when the house was built. When the power is out I plug my generator in and have heat.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Pete7

10-31-2006 14:49:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to freddy farmer, 10-30-2006 18:30:48  
My thanks to each that responded. You helped me understand better why they have the rule. I can see now that an outlet and plug might compromise the dedicated circuit part of the rule. I was orginally just too focused on how the plug and outlet itself could be a safety issue on a furnance. It sure makes following a rule easier to do once you understand the reason behind it.
Pete



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
old art

10-31-2006 16:48:44




Report to Moderator
 Re: Electric Code Question in reply to Pete7, 10-31-2006 14:49:49  
use a manual transfer switch and a seperate load center for those inportant circuits . Menards sell them with directoins to hookup cost reasonable good luck



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy