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Chainsaw bar

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Norm in NC

03-25-2001 10:48:58




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I'm about to buy a new chainsaw - Stihl 036 - and was wondering how much difference you see with a sprocket type bar vs. a standard bar. Does anyone have any experience with these ?




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Wade

03-27-2001 22:04:15




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 Re: Chainsaw bar in reply to Norm in NC, 03-25-2001 10:48:58  
036 is a big saw. I hope you don't have to use it too much. I do a lot of cutting with an 024 and rarely need more power. More power is always good, but it is a pain when you're toting it. Are you sure you need that much saw?

Sprocket tip is all I've run and I wouldn't think of using anything less. Many many hours on this bar, stuck a few times, bent not once.

Dull chains run hot. Learn how to keep your chain sharp and be happy.

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VaTom

03-28-2001 07:16:23




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 Re: Re: Chainsaw bar in reply to Wade, 03-27-2001 22:04:15  
My 039 is an even bigger saw and I wouldn't want any smaller. I run a 20" bar and when the new one didn't come with grease holes for the tip, I added them. Dealer said most people didn't grease the sprocket anyway and that the few of us who did wouldn't get the life we were accustomed to. Doesn't take much to drill a hole. My previous saw was a Husky equivalent of an 024. The 039 is heavier to carry but when you get those dogs into the bark, the weight's not an issue. Limbing with a longer bar's a lot easier too. Mine's a forest saw, not a yard saw. If you only have small trees, you wouldn't need as much. I've occasionally wished for a longer bar so I could get a better meet in the middle of a large log. Far as I can tell, I've got an ideal compromise, for me.

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Wade

03-30-2001 09:51:57




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 Re: Re: Re: Chainsaw bar in reply to VaTom, 03-28-2001 07:16:23  
I run a 16" for cleaning, clearing, and firewood. I did log some cedars but they were small. I do trail work where you have to tote the saw all the way. Power is sweet when felling big stuff, but I like the light wieght and manuverability of a smaller saw/bar.



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ltf in nc

03-25-2001 12:20:26




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 Re: Chainsaw bar in reply to Norm in NC, 03-25-2001 10:48:58  
Norm, you will enjoy the Stihl. I suggest that you take a few minutes to "break it in" when you get it. If you will take the time to "season" the chain and bar you will not regret the effort. Fill with gas and oil as recommended and start the engine and bring the engine speed up to about half throttle. Cut nothing but air. Observe oil being slung off the end of the bar. Occasionally rev the engine higher but immediately let it back off. Do this for at least 5 minutes by a watch. If during this breaking in you notice the bar heating or the chain becoming too loose, obviously stop. Let the chain cool or reset the chain tension and repeat the run-in. Do this until the bar ceases to get hot and the chain stops stretching. You will notice that when you start using the saw you will not get the usual chain stretch and the bar will not develop hot spots and the associated heat discoloration. This exercise will promote longer life of the bar and chain and will reduce the frequency of having to snug the chain in the future. You will be impressed in the improve overall performance over the life of the bar and chain. Happy sawing!

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Dean

03-25-2001 11:26:18




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 Re: Chainsaw bar in reply to Norm in NC, 03-25-2001 10:48:58  
Sprocket nose bars cut faster, wear longer, are easier on the chain, and require less chain tightening.



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Paul

03-25-2001 11:19:08




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 Re: Chainsaw bar in reply to Norm in NC, 03-25-2001 10:48:58  
Our local Stihl dealer tells me that the sprocket nose bar cuts a big percentage faster than the hardnose bar. Wish I could remember the exact number for you. I like the sprocket nose after using it. Comparing apples to oranges - my old Homelite had a hardnose bar and the Stihl easily cuts twice as fast, but then the Stihl turns twice the RPMs too. I was always told that the hardnose bar was repairable if you bent it because it was milled from one solid piece of steel, whereas the others were made from three pieces laminated and if bent, the outside of the bend would stretch making it hard if not impossible to salvage it. I've never bent a bar in the 30+ years I've been exposed to farm chainsaws so I picked the sprocket nose when I bought a new saw.

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