Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tool Talk Discussion Forum

OT: wood stoves

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Sam (MO)

10-11-2006 04:55:06




Report to Moderator

moning gang. I bought a house about a year ago, and the guy used a well casing for a chimney pipe. He welded a T to the well casing. I need to replace the stove, just plain wore out. I'fn I buy a stove that has a flue which is a little higher than the T pipe will cause any problems?




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
TomTX

10-13-2006 02:24:53




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT: wood stoves in reply to Sam (MO), 10-11-2006 04:55:06  
Sam, i think your biggest problem is the homemade welded pipe. I would not use such a mess. Codes are strict and insurance companies look for reasons not to pay off. You could lose your home and NOT be covered on insurance. Best get a professional to inspect and advise you. Tom



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
T_Bone

10-12-2006 01:05:13




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT: wood stoves in reply to Sam (MO), 10-11-2006 04:55:06  
Hi Sam,

Installing a low vent entrance will cause a negitive draw to the inside of the combustion room thus filling the room with smoke gas.

The wood stove smoke will be heavy in CO so that puts you and your family at extreme risk for death.

About the best place to get current vent install info is from your local building code dept or fire dept. There's not one piece of code that you can skimp on as they protect your installation form killing your family.

T_Bone

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
vally farm

10-11-2006 19:26:15




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT: wood stoves in reply to Sam (MO), 10-11-2006 04:55:06  
You are BEGGING for draft/back-up problems! Either find a shorter stove. or cut the legs down on the one you want. You will be MILES ahead if you do. It will cause a verrry rapid build-up of creasote when that smoke sits and cools to drop low to draft. Find a shorter stove. Mike.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Stan in Oly, WA

10-11-2006 14:44:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT: wood stoves in reply to Sam (MO), 10-11-2006 04:55:06  
Hi Sam,

If I were in your situation I think I'd put some effort into trying to learn to like a different stove. What you're talking about doing is going to be a lot of work even if everything turns out to be in your favor. Even if the pipe is secured in place only at the top of the chimney and where it stubs out for the stove connection you're going to have to remove and replace mortar up top and bricks and mortar in the room. After that, how do you plan to lift it? I'm not suggesting that it can't be done. It could even be an enjoyable job in a horrible sort of way. It's just that if you aren't absolutely forced to deal with a particular stove that won't fit, you could easily find one that would and use your time and effort to better advantage in something with a more attractive payback. The satisfaction of stubbornly doing everything your own way is fairly cold comfort when you find yourself close to retirement age and you don't have enough put aside to stop working. Guess how I know.

All the best, Stan

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Sam (MO)

10-11-2006 08:46:37




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT: wood stoves in reply to Sam (MO), 10-11-2006 04:55:06  
I guess I did a bad job of explaining my issue. The well casing is in a brick chimney. The prevoious owner use a well casing to plumb the flue pipe from the stove. He cut a hole into the well casing and then weld a T into the hole. THe current stove is a warm morning barn that has seen better days. I was looking into a stove that sit 3-5 inches higher than the current flue. This would make the smoke run down hill to the T in the well casing, then up and out the Chimney.
Not sure If I can move the well casing up yet, gotta get on the roff and look down chimney to see how is set in there.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
MarkB_MI

11-04-2006 09:56:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: Extension Cord Question in reply to 135 Fan, 11-03-2006 22:09:29  
Dave,

I assume you're referring to a "stick" welder, since it's not practical to add cable to a TIG or MIG welder. Stick welders are considered to constant current sources; that is regardless of the load, the output current will be constant. (The same is true of TIG welders, while MIG welders are considered to be constant voltage sources.) This brings up a valid question: "Why do I need crank up the current on the welder when I add cable, if it's supposed to be a constant current source?" The answer is that the welder is not a true constant current source. If it was, the stinger would start arcing all around the room as soon as you turned on the welder, because a true constant current source would put out a bazillion volts or whatever was required to start the arc going. Actually, the welder is neither a true constant voltage nor a true constant current source. When you add cable, you effectively change the output impedance of the welder, which requires you to adjust the current setting to get the same current as before.

I could go into further detail, but it's really not necessary. The main point is that from an electrical point of view, it doesn't matter if you put the small cable at the stinger end or the welder end of the cable. You will get the same current and voltage at the stinger in either case.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Gravy

10-11-2006 09:36:14




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT: wood stoves in reply to paul, 10-11-2006 07:09:29  
I think that if the chimney draws good then the only problem you will have is getting the draw started with a cold system. Can you reach through the stove, through the pipe to the welded 90� elbow? If so, lay out your paper and kindling wood in the cold stove and then reach a lighted fold or two of newspaper back to the elbow. This might start the hot gases up the chimney so that you can light the kindling pile and have the smoke draw up the flue. Worth a try. My flue pipe runs down hill about an inch from stove to chimney and once I get it started it's OK. If you pipe is 8" it would help. A 5" drop would still put the bottom of the stove collar 3" below the top of the wall collar...

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
RegoR

10-11-2006 06:28:04




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT: wood stoves in reply to Sam (MO), 10-11-2006 04:55:06  
Hi Sam,

I burn with a wood stove and I'm familiar with installations using Duravent (or similar) multi-walled flue pipe, but I'm not getting a picture of what you're describing. Is the 'casing' inside a masonry chimney? I especially don't get the welded T part.
Need more info.

Roger



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
B-maniac

10-14-2006 19:11:46




Report to Moderator
 Re: OT: wood stoves in reply to RegoR, 10-11-2006 06:28:04  
I know people did it for ages,but if financially possible,get the stove OUT of the home.You will sleep a lot better as will your insurance man. If you have kids living there,definately get it outside! If the fuel savings won't pay for an outdoor one,then maybe you are not saving enough to warrant the risk of a fire in the house? Just my 2%.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy