OT/ ??? on cheater slicks

Are they a DOT approved drag tire? Are they radials, such as the BFG Drag Radial, or are they bias plies, such as the Mickey Thompson ET Streets? Tubes to my knolage are not needed with them.

I have some drag radials I got used that are tubeless, they (the radials) have a stiff enough sidewall that you can drive them on the street. I also have a pair of true wrinkle walls in a pair of 28X9X15 Mickey Thompson ET Drags, they are track only and have a VERY soft sidewall. TUbes are advised with them but I don't run them. The tires do bleed air out the sidewalls and will go flat in a few days in the garage.

I would go to the website of the manufacturer of the tires you have (they all have websites these days) and look as to what they reccomend.

Also, ask fellow racers what tire pressure they reccomend starting at and working with- keep in mind every car, suspension setup etc. is different. It took me about 40 passes to get my technique down, from how much of a burnout, to what RPM to launch at (and I have one automatic I run and one stick) before I got it right. Keep your timeslips, note things like launch RPM, and importantly the ambient temparature and humidity, they all come into play. Doing this, you can go back and see improvements, or if your MPH or ET get worse, look back and see what you did differently that DIDN'T work.

CHANGE ONLY ONE THING AT A TIME! In other words, don't make a pass, feel you spun too much, drop the tire pressure, but then also change your timing and burnout technique. If your 60' improves, how will know what change did it?

Also, once you have slicks, you may need to change things like your pinion angle of your rear axle to optimize things.

It's a disease- but it's fun. I have had more fun with a $1700 '88 Z28 with nearly 200,000 miles on a 305TPI by doing "free mods" and not touching the long block than other people I know with trailered racecars with lots of money tied up in 'em. Some Ebay headers, a simple cutout after the headers, bumping the timing, some die grinder work on the intake manifold and runners, cutting the baffles out of the air filter box took me from mid 15's to low 14's, and it still has working AC, power windows, and 3.08 gears.

Modern practice may have changed...so you might call the "tech line" at some place like Summit Racing or Jeg's to get the BEST answer, since these folks sell slicks and all the stuff that goes with 'em, on a daily basis.