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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

A couple ways

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John Garner

07-11-2006 22:21:51




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JAY IN KY --

Most small rotary tables have some sort of center hole, sometimes with a cylindrical bore but often with a Morse taper. If the part you're wanting to center has its own center hole, you might be able to make a plug that fits the rotary table center hole and the part center hole.

The more common way of centering a workpiece on a rotary table requires that you measure the difference between workpiece radii that are 180 degrees apart, and then adjust the workpiece location on the rotary table to split the difference. The most common tool used to make the measurements is a dial gage or dial indicator that must be held stationary; most often the dial gage is anchored to the machine spindle while the rotary table base is clamped to the table.

After you center the work on the rotary table by eye, set a dial indicator up to probe the reference surface. Adjust the indicator holder or move the table so that the dial gage plunger is pressed about half way into its range of travel before zeroing the indicator. Now turn the rotary table top and workpiece (as an assembly) a half turn before reading the dial gage.

Now you want to move the workpiece relative to the rotary table surface until the dial gage reads one-half of the second value. Let's say your two dial gage readings are A. 0.000 inch, and B. 0.138 inch . . . you want to move the workpiece until the dial gage reads 0.069 inch at BOTH positions A and B.

Next, you need to repeat the measure-rotate 1/2 turn-measure-split the difference process at positions C and D, which must be on a line perpendicular to that connecting A and B.

Since it's about impossible to move the part on the table exactly the right amount in the right direction, it's vital that you recheck and readjust A and B after you adjust along C and D . . . and then you'll need to check and readjust C and D again, and so on and so on. While you're learning, it'll seem like you're chasing your tail, but it is a skill you'll learn.

To reiterate, the important part is that when adjusting the part on the table you need to rotate the part and table together when you make your measurements, NOT the machine table.

Then later, if you need to center the table under the spindle, you rotate the spindle to measure and move the machine table, which has the rotary table and part bolted to it, to make the adjustment.

John

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JAY IN KY

07-12-2006 12:29:00




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 Re: A couple ways in reply to John Garner, 07-11-2006 22:21:51  
John and Mike, thanks for the info, that clears up a lot. My 8" rotary table has 2mt center hole and I thought about the plug but figured I was just making more work and more places to get off in measuring plus I just thought the correct way was with the indicator and I might as well learn how the pros do it. I was going about it the wrong way. I was'nt splitting the difference. I should have remembered that from my dad and carpentry work, he was always saying "split the difference". John you sure are right about chasing my tail, after several hours doing this I decided I needed professional help. Its good to know I was in the right ball park.
Mike, you mentioned shims, is there special kits you buy or do you just use shim stock? I looked in the Enco catalog and did'nt see anything. What are the gage block sets used for, can you use these for shims? Also, is .003" about the right amount of clearence between the housing and the rotors? I measured the thickness of the new set of rotors and the depth of the housing( in a non worn area I believe) and the difference is .003". Another problem Im having is clamping the workpiece to the table. The only way I can come up with is to use studs thru the holes in the workpiece. This area( the flange)will also have to be machined a like amount and if I remove any of the studs I loose my setup. The only thing I can think of is to counter bore the holes so the head of the clamping stud is below the flange surface. There is sufficent depth but it would be a little thin around the circumference of the hole,I suppose I could make a very small shoulder and cut a bolt head down to fit in the recess. Any suggestions? One more thing; I can only line up two holes with the rotary table slots and that makes it more difficult to level the piece. Thanks for the help.

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MikeCatthemuseum

07-14-2006 19:01:45




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 Re: A couple ways in reply to JAY IN KY, 07-12-2006 12:29:00  
Been thinking about this. Are you going to be really hogging away, or just shaving of enough to make it serviceable again? If this is just a light cut situation, you could get some little pieces of relatively heavy angle (1/4 or 3/8 would be plenty thick and maybe 1-2" legs depending on the height of the punp housing), drill a hole in one leg and clamp it flat to the table using the Tslots.

Do this three or four times, whichever is applicable to your table. Now drill and tap 1/2" or so holes at a very slight downward angle and install short bolts, essentially creating a four jaw chuck on your rotary table. Slide these up near the housing and clamp the angle clips down tight to the table. Now you can use the screws to zero the work and they will hold it down enough to make light cuts.

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JAY IN KY

07-16-2006 21:16:04




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 Re: A couple ways in reply to MikeCatthemuseum, 07-14-2006 19:01:45  
thanks Mike, that sounds like it might just work. I was looking in the enco catalog and they sell a rotary table with a 4 jaw chuck attachment and now I see how that would be useful, just like one is useful for a lathe. as for how much I will be cutting, about 15 to 20 thousandths. I will give the angle strips a try. I mentioned in the last post the oil clearence of .003",my book does'nt give oil clearence cause they want you to buy a new pump assy. I mentioned this clearence thinking it is a general one used in most running fits, am I right? I figured some of you machinists could help. Thanks again, Jay

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MikeCatthemuseum

07-13-2006 16:28:46




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 Re: A couple ways in reply to JAY IN KY, 07-12-2006 12:29:00  
I'll use about anything for a shim. Shim stock, roof flashing, sheet metal.. makes no difference as long as it spaces the part up.

Can't help much with the oil pump info. I can show you how to set the work up, but refer to the manual for clearances and tolerances.

As for how to get hold of it, I'd need to see a pic to be of much help there.



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