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Melting Brass

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Al English

03-15-2001 06:35:33




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The discussion on melting lead reminded me of a couple of projects I'm not working on. I want to melt some brass nuts and cast a few parts. I was planning to make plaster moulds and bake the moisture out of them before the pour. I know the cautions about moisture would be the same for brass as for lead. I was thinking I'd use an acetylyne torch and an iron pot. Anyone ever tried this? Thanks...Al English

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John M. Russell

02-05-2004 07:13:57




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 Re: Melting Brass in reply to Al English, 03-15-2001 06:35:33  
at what temperature does brass melt?



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S.AMMER

03-18-2001 05:22:07




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 Re: Melting Brass in reply to Al English, 03-15-2001 06:35:33  
The April/May 2001 issue of "Machinists Workshop" magazine discucces plaster molds and how to dry them. Some of the old "The Mother Earth News" magazines had how to articles on small melting furnaces as did many other magazines in the 1960-1970 era. Lots of luck with your project.



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Al English

03-16-2001 08:57:10




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 Re: Melting Brass in reply to Al English, 03-15-2001 06:35:33  
Hey guys,
I really appreciate the information and advice. Like most things, the less one knows about something, the simpler it looks. After reading your posts I'm glad I asked the question.

Thanks...Al English



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MarkB

03-15-2001 13:57:47




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 Re: Melting Brass in reply to Al English, 03-15-2001 06:35:33  
You may want to use bronze instead of brass. Silicon bronze is stronger and more corrosion resistant than brass, plus you don't have to worry about keeping the zinc in suspension. (Silicon bronze is 98% copper + 2% silicon.)

I haven't done any casting myself, but I had a fellow cast me up some belt buckles many years ago. He used silicon bronze and cast them using the lost wax technique. The results were quite nice.

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tools

03-15-2001 12:53:06




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 Re: Melting Brass in reply to Al English, 03-15-2001 06:35:33  
Hey Al,

Havn't done it YET. A very simple and well written book on doing all this from scratch (and thus VERY inexpensively) by Dave Gingery is available from Lindsay Books (Lindsaybks.com I think). The book costs like 5 or 6 bucks.

It details making a simple charcoal powered furnace, using a hair dryer to provide a little blast (to get the 2000 plus degrees you need), making molding sand, making patterns and pouring.

The styrofoam thing isn't mentioned but my wife did a project in college (art major) like that with aluminum. She's NOT the most mechanical person in the world and she made a neat little sculpture, so it must work pretty well!

Have fun let us know how it goes.

Tools

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T_Bone

03-15-2001 08:49:51




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 Re: Melting Brass in reply to Al English, 03-15-2001 06:35:33  
Hi al, I don't know how many projects your thinking about, but you can get fire brick about 1"x4"x8" at any local brick company and make a small furnace real cheap and will work better than open heating. I stacked some 2"x4"x8" bricks together for a temp furnace that worked well. Add a thin sheetmetal wraper and you have a permanate furnace. They also sell fire clay that works well for covering iron grating to keep it from burning. You mix the fire clay with water then apply to metal and when it heats it turns very hard and at the correct temperature turns to porcelain and also can be used for making crucibles. Borax works well for a flux.

A very good reffernce for old metal working methods from smelting to refining to casting is:
Pirotechina by Vannoccio Biringuccio published by M.I.T., ca:1540. From what you have told me, you would enjoy reading this book.

T_Bone

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Jerry B

03-15-2001 08:17:24




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 Re: Melting Brass in reply to Al English, 03-15-2001 06:35:33  
I have melted and cast many parts from brass. The biggest problem is keeping the zinc in suspension during the melt and pour. To prevent the zinc from burning off, I used brown glass broken into small pieces mixed in with the brass to be melted. Be sure you use enough to cover the melt on top to prevent air from reaching the liquid. The liquid glass acts as a flux and as a seal to prevent burning the zinc.

It is best to melt brass in an enclosed "furnace" rather than trying to heat with a single flame source.

As far as using a steel or iron pot, we didn't have much luck with that. The best thing to use is a graphite crucible. The brass will not stick to it like it will with a ferous pot. You might have better luck with the iron pot however. It is worth a try anyway.

For a mold you can also use styrofoam for a pattern. Make a sprue and riser from styrofoam and Crazy Glue them to the pattern. Set the entire assembley onto a bed of DRY sand and pour the remaining sand over the pattern to finish the mold. Leave about an inch or more of the styrofoam sprue and riser above the top of the sand. Tamp the sand down by hand to firm it up a little.

CAREFULLY spray a mist of water around the sprue and riser to firm up the sand and prevent it from crumbling into the molten metal as you make the pour. Pressing gentley with your fingers to shape the area into a "funnel" is a good idea also.

Make absolutley sure there is no water on the protruding styrofoam sprue and riser as this will cause a steam explosion when it is hit with molten brass. Let the area dry for a while or warm it with a hair dryer to remove all the moisture from the styrofoam.

As you pour the brass, the gas given off by the vaporising styrofoam will keep the dry sand from collasping into the cavity were the patern is. Pour until the sprue and riser are completely filled. Let cool and remove from sand.

Try using a styrofoam coffee cup and making a practice pour. Use aluminum for learning the process because it works much easier than the brass. After you get the hang of this you will be LOOKING for things to cast!

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Tyler(WA)

03-15-2001 06:51:31




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 Re: Melting Brass in reply to Al English, 03-15-2001 06:35:33  
Done it with silver. It ought to work. The process is called lost mold casting. You make what you want out of wax, add some wax runs to act as flow chanels to allow the brass to get to the mold area, group the runs to a wax cone to act as a funnel for the molten metal and sink the whole thing in a plaster cast. When you bake the moisture out of the mold, the wax melts away to leave you with a pretty good mold. After you pour your metal, you can disolve the plaster with water and you are left with a pretty good part. You need to cut away the brass that filled the flow channels but that's easy.

We had a centrifical device that held the molten metal in a cup and spun it out to the mold. That helped prevent bubbles from spoiling the mold.

Slicker than salted slugs.

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Kimk

03-15-2001 15:47:47




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 Re: Re: Melting Brass in reply to Tyler(WA), 03-15-2001 06:51:31  
Any advice / reference books on refining silver from electrolitic flake -- recovered from photographic fixer. Thanks



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