Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Discussion Forum

Melting lead

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Jerry Bliler

03-12-2001 08:54:19




Report to Moderator

Am looking for a good way to melt lead in about three pound coffee can amounts. Am wanting to remelt tire shop weights and cast them into 12" rounds About 2" thick Need a good way to melt the stuff, hopefully homemade should be cheaper. Also what heat should be needed to do this?




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Roger

03-18-2001 14:58:50




Report to Moderator
 Re: Melting lead in reply to Jerry Bliler, 03-12-2001 08:54:19  
Be carefull and use saftey equipment and pecautions as mentioned! the pain of molten lead burning into my foot still comes back to me 35 years later and burns don't heal well



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
wrenchman

03-16-2001 01:45:46




Report to Moderator
 Re: Melting lead in reply to Jerry Bliler, 03-12-2001 08:54:19  
i made a lead pot that uses the burner from an old gas waterheater.uses propane.works real well.for large amounts half of a freon tank should work.(make sure it's empty before you cut it).drill a 1/2in hole in the side and run a jigsaw around it.weld on some handles,bend a pouring spout in the edge and go.:)



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
RayP

03-15-2001 18:07:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: Melting lead in reply to Jerry Bliler, 03-12-2001 08:54:19  
If you could melt the wheel weights and cast them in small pieces - say a pound or so - like in an aluminum muffin tin, then remelt them for the final casting, as a separate operation, it will allow for a much cleaner product. I do this for bullet casting. Gets rid of the dirt, and other stuff in the first melting. If you have a friend who casts bullets, try to borrow his melting furnace, for the first melt. Then you could probably heat them in your mold over a gas or propane burner and let them cool in that form. What are you making? Wheel weights for garden tractors? What are you using for your mold? A 12" frying pan would work, especially one of the teflon throw outs from the wife's kitchen arsenal. Watch out though, that much lead is going to be mighty heavy, and clumsy to handle, especially when melted! Other advice on this post is good - especially goggles, gloves, long sleeves, and no water!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
slughammer

03-14-2001 09:06:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: Melting lead in reply to Jerry Bliler, 03-12-2001 08:54:19  
Jerry,
Can't find where I wrote it down, but pure lead is about .40 lb/cu in. I'm sure wheel weights are less because of the alloying, but figuring at least .30 lb/ cu in., a 12 inch round 2in thick would weigh 68lb. (pure lead would weight 90lb)
My experience with lead is based on hand casting scrap lead into pistol bullets, right now I would estimate over 10,000. (200 lb)
Don't like the idea of having water anywhere near your operation. Let your lead cool naturally and you will end up with just as strong of a product without the risk of an explosion. Lead will quench and harden slightly, but you run the risk of surface cracking on such a large item, wheel weights will actually age harden over a period of time so let alchemy run its course. I have melted wheel weights and did not wash prior to melting, anything that would come off when washing will come off when fluxing, so I never did the extra step but may consider it to keep my pot cleaner. My usual casting temperature for good bullets in a warm mold is 675 degrees. Use the wax, and a large heavy spoon to skim off the clips and dirt. Flux and skim several times, you can't over do it. Throw the junk into a coffee can for hazardous waste disposal. Lead is probably the least harmful component you'll find when melting wheel weights,just think about all the toxic stuff that is stuck to them, so as mentioned don't breath. Also safty glasses and heavy gloves are a must.
I once used a heavy aluminum pot to melt 100 lbs of wheel weights at one shot, the pot had two handles that were riveted on. That is the last time that pot will be used, I am concerned with cracking the pot itself, I will be fabricating or aquiring a heavy steel pot for my next batch. The handles suffered significant damage from the fire.
Based on the dangers of transporting molten lead,(ie. handle failure,spilling etc.) I recommend letting the brew cool right where you heated it. Knock it out of the pot the next day.
Good Luck-Slughammer

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jerry bliler

03-14-2001 13:44:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Melting lead in reply to slughammer, 03-14-2001 09:06:16  
Will the lead stick to the steel pot? am interested in all I can find out before I start



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Frank

03-14-2001 17:32:08




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Melting lead in reply to Jerry bliler , 03-14-2001 13:44:59  
Lead will shrink slightly when it cools. Should come out easily. T bone gave you some good advice. I've been a bullet caster for about 12 years myself,so I've melted a pound or two of lead. Be careful and good luck with your project.
Frank



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Frank

03-14-2001 17:36:52




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Re: Melting lead in reply to Frank, 03-14-2001 17:32:08  
Just re-read my post. I meant to say that T bone and Slughammer gave good advice. Sorry for the omission.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
gene davis

03-12-2001 19:28:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: Melting lead in reply to Jerry Bliler, 03-12-2001 08:54:19  
suprised to see no one has mentioned the dangers of lead poisoning in all these posts!!*****LGD



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
T_Bone

03-13-2001 20:48:24




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Melting lead in reply to gene davis , 03-12-2001 19:28:16  
Hi Gene, Lead would be one of my least concerns. Have you ever took alook at what your exhaust pipe puts out of your car? Compare the emissions of the two evils and I think you'll agree your car is by far the worst, like by 100 times over.

We're gonna pay one of these days for tearing up our enviroment the way we have!!! BIG TIME!

T_Bone



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
TomH

03-12-2001 17:20:13




Report to Moderator
 Re: Melting lead in reply to Jerry Bliler, 03-12-2001 08:54:19  
As Jerry B and T_Bone both mentioned, water and molten metal are a dangerous mix, steam explosions happen. Heat all the lead together in one lot, don't add more unless you have preheated it first to be absolutely sure its dry.

And in case others are tempted, don't even think about melting lead acid batteries to get the lead. They contain arsenic and give off very bad fumes.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jerry B

03-12-2001 11:57:39




Report to Moderator
 Re: Melting lead in reply to Jerry Bliler, 03-12-2001 08:54:19  
Jerry,
You can make life a little easier by completely washing the weights in strong soapy water and scrubbing with a stiff bristle brush a day or two BEFORE you melt them. (Don't try to melt wet wheels weights.) This means you will have less dirt and debris to flux out of the mix. If you don't have bee's wax for flux, you can use candle wax or even some old hard grease. (watch out for flames)

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
T_Bone

03-12-2001 10:54:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: Melting lead in reply to Jerry Bliler, 03-12-2001 08:54:19  
Hi Jerry, Use a propane burner OUTSIDE, and melt in a aluminum pan as lead won't stick to aluminum. This 12" x 2" wiil weigh about 50lbs so be warned it will be heavy and if your using an old frying pan it'll break off the handle when you try and pick it up. Ask me how I know! If you do spill the molten lead on you, just let it burn as if you try and wipe the lead off you will just smear it over a larger area, the same applys to tar. If spilled on your hand, flip your hand over so the lead will fall off AFTER it cools some. No children or animals should watch as it's too easy to make a mistake and burn one of them. Outside is a must because lead will start to off gas(fumes) when it gets liquid at about 450 degrees. I have people argue with me all the time that lead won't off gas at 450 but it does, you just can't see it!

If you were going to make a bunch of rounds, take some 3/4" sch40 pipe and make some handles for the aluminum pan, heat the lead in the pan, then sit it in some water about 1/4" on the ground to let the melt chill, then when the top looks frosted flip the pan over and drop the lead in the water. Water and hot metal of any kind will cause the metal to explode in it's liquid state so be careful.

Do not use your Bar-B-Q grill for a burner as the lead off gas will stick to the grill and then when you fix food next time the food will contain lead!

You can take the burner out of the Bar-B-Q and use it tho, then clean it when your done. The burner head needs to be about 4" from the bottom of your melt pan.

T_Bone

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Joe Evans

03-12-2001 20:30:21




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Melting lead in reply to T_Bone, 03-12-2001 10:54:47  
Hey T_Bone! Just thought I'd pass this along: I work for a mechanical contractor and once in a blue moon I would have to drag out the old plumber's furnace,pot, oakum, running rope, and yarning irons so some of the old timers could lead a joint, probably no-hub into an SV hub. I thought leaded joints were a thing of the past until last year. We got a big waste pipe contract using Duriron with leaded joints. This in a food plant no less!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Additional Info...T_Bone

03-12-2001 11:18:38




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Melting lead in reply to T_Bone, 03-12-2001 10:54:47  
Hi Jerry,I for got to say use pariffin wax or beeswax as a flux to clean the lead, use about 1/4" wax square at a time, then skim the lead to remove impurites(dirt), a spoon with holes drilled in it works good. The steel clips can be removed with needle nose pliars after the lead melts.

T_Bone



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy